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HELP yz250 clutch question!


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so i bought a yz 250 recently and right off the bat after the test ride i noticed the clutch was a little sticky but it was a good price so i bought it anyway. when i took it apart today the first thing i noticed was that the oil i drained out of it was red, ATF right? i have heard of guys using ATF in their bikes so i didn't really think anything of it but once i got deeper into the motor i found it really hard to pull the discs out and that they would come out stuck to each other..  stuck together by the oil. the hub looks basically brand new and the basket has some wear on it but nothing real deep, at least not deep enough to hold anything together i think so was it the oil causing the clutch to be real sticky?? the shop manual recommend 10w 30 oil in it and after smelling it i know for sure that is not what came out. i just want some info on what this could be before i go out and buy a new basket... any info would be appreciated, thanks! 

Edited by LEGITBANANAH
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Clutches... 

Check thickness of friction plates, warp in steel rings, pushrod #2 mushrooming, pushrod #1 wear, and a new cable is always good. 

Freshen the oil with your brand within 2 hours of each other to insure flushing the old out. 

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22 hours ago, zeke383 said:

"Sticky" is not a word that I've ever heard used when talking about type F in a wet clutch. How is the basket, any notching??

Mine sounded dramatic, not sticky as in rotella but a true flat surface mated the oil will cause the plates to stick together, never mind good

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On 10/9/2017 at 7:43 AM, LEGITBANANAH said:

the shop manual recommend 10w 30 oil in it

10w30 or 15w40. But don't use car engine oil.  Most of those make the clutch feel like crap. Sticky, grabby, slipping, sqeaky, etc. Some oils work way better than others. My preference is for the heavy duty industrial diesel oils.  In summer I use a 15w50 oil. Gear shifting still perfect and I like the wear protection from a thick oil. No shortage of power for my needs.

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