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YZ125 advice

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Hey, I'm looking at a yz125. Any buying advice? What year? I'm think about a 2002. Any thoughts on that year and era? I'm looking for advice you would make sure a first time yz owner knows. Thanks,

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Forgot to say, I'm coming from a TTR 125, so it's a pretty big change. I need 2 stroke advice also. I'm also riding woods and hill climbing.

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Id Get a 2006 and up because of the aluminum frame lol youll thank me when you try to load it up to take it anywhere


Any idea how much weight that takes off?

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I wouldnt say any more than about 30 pounds roughly (youll have to google it) but it means alot when it comes to weight distruption on riding and when you have to pick one up to put it on the stand or on a truck

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I wouldnt say any more than about 30 pounds roughly (youll have to google it) but it means alot when it comes to weight distruption on riding and when you have to pick one up to put it on the stand or on a truck


Ok. Well that stinks because I have seen lots of '02 '03 in my price range

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Dont get me wrong there theyre really good bikes considering they really havent changed a thing in since 2000 but the graphics and rims etc and if theres one for a good price go for it but if you have the option id buy a newer one

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26 minutes ago, DirtbikeBradley said:

 


Any idea how much weight that takes off?

 

They are actually the same weight. I would look for anything from 02 to 05 for steelies Aluminum frames are nice as well.

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8 minutes ago, medalheatpistons said:

They are not the same weight..

If they were the same weight yamaha wouldnt have even made the change.

That doesn't make much sense seeing as KTMs and a majority of the manufacturer's street bikes are steel frames.

 

Dry weight on an aluminum framed bike is 207.

On a steelie it's 208. 

They changed frames for rigidity reasons. The chassis's are both the same and parts can be swapped from frame to frame.

Literally no difference aside materials.

Edited by MaybeMe
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Well i googled it and mybad but it the steel is 192.5 pounds the aluminum is 189 but not as much as i thought of a difference


Glad we got that worked out. Is the Alum. Worth going for? I know medalheatpistons likes it...
I still will go for the '06+ if possible.

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8 minutes ago, DirtbikeBradley said:

 


Glad we got that worked out. Is the Alum. Worth going for? I know medalheatpistons likes it...
I still will go for the '06+ if possible.

 

Up to you. If you are riding tracks, sure. Not so much? Steel is fine for offroad and track.

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I would say don't listen to these guys 02 n 03 are awesome bikes it won't make much difference to you vs aluminium. 

Don't worry about that deal breakers are resleeved cylinders with a steel liner. Yz 125 engine from this generation the metal kick start stopper plate inside the clutch cover. Would crack and the lever will flop forward into the pipe if it's broken.  Is like a $45 part new to replace it, the part breaks from kicking the lever into the foot peg. 

The other usual wear items to consider as well when looking at used bikes. 

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Weight weenie alert. There is no more than 2-8 pounds between steel and Aluminum frames in 125 class and 10-14 pounds in 250. If weight is such a big concern than take a dump or loose weight, pack less gear, whatever. 

Aluminum frame and sss is best for track. 

Steel is best for desert and mountain riding. 02 is said to be more ridged than 03-04. I couldn’t tell when I changed from 02 to an 04. 

02-04 will give you the 5 speed transmission, 05 up will be back to a 6 speed. Honestly, for the money an 01 is nice and the styling isn’t bad either. An 02-04 can have the 98-2001 6 speed put in it (I have seen a thread on this) if that means a lot. 

02 will also give you all the body styles up to 2018 as they didn’t change plastics to 2015, and that’s just the airbox that is sold in a kit now. 

Money wise, 06 if you can find one for 2k, otherwise I would get the 02-04 and spiff it up, and run it hard. 

Edited by 2 STOKE YZ DOC
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Ok, to the OP-now that we have all the stupid issues out of the way:

bike on a stand, spin wheels and check for wobbly wheels, pulsating brake caliper, look at radiators to be straight, check coolant level and color, bring a 10mm socket and pull seat to look at air filter/box, check brakes while on the stand also, look st cables from throttle and clutch for wear and adjustments, smell fuel tank to make sure it’s not old crappy kerosene smell, look for broken front brake guide, missing case saver, worn sprockets/chain, leaking seals, good compression (on a 125 there is lighter resistance than a 250, but should still feel solid), broken and bent levers, torn grips, faded plastic. All thes combined, or separated, can have an effect on the negotiating price. 

I probably forgot a few, but you get the picture. 

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Check the gearbox drain bolt for any sign of JB Weld or welding/repairs.

Beware if the rear wheel's mud flap is missing, look at the shock's shaft for pitting.

 

With the bike on a stand, kneeling in front of the bike, grab each bottom fork tube and push/pull on them.

Check for loose steering bearings and play between the upper & lower fork tubes.  (bushings)

 

Despite no obvious fork seal leak (could have been cleaned before hand)

inspect the lower tubes for any sign of damage (gouge, scratch etc.) especially if missing a plastic fork guard.

 

Ask the seller to start up the bike himself, see if he's the type to rev it the moon within 30 seconds of a cold start...

Edited by mlatour
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11 hours ago, mlatour said:

Check the gearbox drain bolt for any sign of JB Weld or welding/repairs.

Beware if the rear wheel's mud flap is missing, look at the shock's shaft for pitting.

 

With the bike on a stand, kneeling in front of the bike, grab each bottom fork tube and push/pull on them.

Check for loose steering bearings and play between the upper & lower fork tubes.  (bushings)

 

Despite no obvious fork seal leak (could have been cleaned before hand)

inspect the lower tubes for any sign of damage (gouge, scratch etc.) especially if missing a plastic fork guard.

 

Ask the seller to start up the bike himself, see if he's the type to rev it the moon within 30 seconds of a cold start...

Yes! 

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I would look or an 05 or newer...not so much for the aluminum frame as better suspension and the 05- present engine is just better. More bottom mid and over rev.

That said 96-02 were a great engine design also....it just evolved to what the yz is today. 

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15 hours ago, mlatour said:

Check the gearbox drain bolt for any sign of JB Weld or welding/repairs.

Beware if the rear wheel's mud flap is missing, look at the shock's shaft for pitting.

 

With the bike on a stand, kneeling in front of the bike, grab each bottom fork tube and push/pull on them.

Check for loose steering bearings and play between the upper & lower fork tubes.  (bushings)

 

Despite no obvious fork seal leak (could have been cleaned before hand)

inspect the lower tubes for any sign of damage (gouge, scratch etc.) especially if missing a plastic fork guard.

 

Ask the seller to start up the bike himself, see if he's the type to rev it the moon within 30 seconds of a cold start...

I nearly cry every time I hear that noise on start up, jackass's!

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