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Prepare for a shit storm. I own one (Core EXP 3.0/ '07 450R woods bike) and yes it has engine braking. However, there is a learning curve which some people can't get past. Great tool, though, and worth the trouble. My bike doesn't stall.

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They are magic.  You'll go from zero to hero in no time flat.  Adjusted correctly there is some engine braking.  Since you won't need clutch skills, some good rear braking skills should be easy to learn anyways. 

If not go buy a quad....     ;)

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58 minutes ago, cjjeepercreeper said:

Lol, another Rekluse thread! :banana:

RE-KLUSE --- I though y'all was dun talk'n bout me. Snicker, snicker. Now y'allget the heck out a' here and don't come back, now get!  (The recluse that lives at the end of the road.)

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I hear a lot of guys just skip the rekluse phase all together and go right to a quad, side by side, golf cart or mobility scooter.

 

Doc

Edited by Doc_d
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I have an '04 KTM 450 exc with rekluse (don't even know which one) also with a left hand rear brake. It is awesome. There is some engine breaking although not as much as traditional set up. You get used to it and it can be an advantage once used to it. I also own a '04 KTM 200exc two stroke traditionally set up with clutch and rear foot brake. Also a great ride. I ride the two stroke most of the time now as it is lighter, I needed to improve my clutching skills,  had never had ridden a two stroke before and really like the super crisp, clutch repsonse. The rekluse to me is a game changer on a 4 stroke bike as there is very little stalling, even in the most difficult situations. The only issues I have with it is that when riding in the woods (all I do), if you encounter a downed tree or something you can't immediately get around, especially on a hill, you can't park it without it rolling backwards. Not a huge deal as you can carry a cam strap or wheel chock to accomodate, it is just a mild pain in the ass. My big reason to be off of it and on the two stroke is the manual clutch. Without this option on the 450 it really never gave me confidence in getting over big trees or rocks as lofting the front became more difficult and you need to prepare well in advance. My bike is older so the carb is probably not as crisp as it could be so this hurt as well. If you have a four stroke then imo it is a no brainer to get a rekluse. I have a good friend that came off of a manual clutch Honda 450x and bought a new '17 KTM 350xcw that he originally rode stock (w/o rekluse) for a few months. He then ponied up and bought a rekluse (I think the radius) and he wouldn't give it up for anything. A whole new ride for him. He still has the manual clutch overide so kind of best of both worlds which is what I would look to do if I end up back on 4t. Not sure why there is a bunch of hate for auto clutches out there, they have a place and make riding much more pleasureable for many. I don't think you can go wrong with them on a 4st. If you don't like it, you can sell it and not take too much of a loss.

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If I had electric start I wouldn't get one, but crashing two hours into a race and bike keeps. running is sure nice.

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I have an '04 KTM 450 exc with rekluse (don't even know which one) also with a left hand rear brake. It is awesome. There is some engine breaking although not as much as traditional set up. You get used to it and it can be an advantage once used to it. I also own a '04 KTM 200exc two stroke traditionally set up with clutch and rear foot brake. Also a great ride. I ride the two stroke most of the time now as it is lighter, I needed to improve my clutching skills,  had never had ridden a two stroke before and really like the super crisp, clutch repsonse. The rekluse to me is a game changer on a 4 stroke bike as there is very little stalling, even in the most difficult situations. The only issues I have with it is that when riding in the woods (all I do), if you encounter a downed tree or something you can't immediately get around, especially on a hill, you can't park it without it rolling backwards. Not a huge deal as you can carry a cam strap or wheel chock to accomodate, it is just a mild pain in the ass. My big reason to be off of it and on the two stroke is the manual clutch. Without this option on the 450 it really never gave me confidence in getting over big trees or rocks as lofting the front became more difficult and you need to prepare well in advance. My bike is older so the carb is probably not as crisp as it could be so this hurt as well. If you have a four stroke then imo it is a no brainer to get a rekluse. I have a good friend that came off of a manual clutch Honda 450x and bought a new '17 KTM 350xcw that he originally rode stock (w/o rekluse) for a few months. He then ponied up and bought a rekluse (I think the radius) and he wouldn't give it up for anything. A whole new ride for him. He still has the manual clutch overide so kind of best of both worlds which is what I would look to do if I end up back on 4t. Not sure why there is a bunch of hate for auto clutches out there, they have a place and make riding much more pleasureable for many. I don't think you can go wrong with them on a 4st. If you don't like it, you can sell it and not take too much of a loss.

So it does get rid of some engine break? I just bought a YZ125 and after riding it once I liked not having any engine break like my 250f has.

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On my 15' YZ250FX it did reduce the amount of engine breaking. Or at least I perceived it that way. Riding it back to back with my buddies 16' Yz250fx without a rekluse was very noticeable when you would chop the throttle and coast. I came to really like having less. Found it less fatiguing. I had the Core 3 setup for low engagement.

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On my 15' YZ250FX it did reduce the amount of engine breaking. Or at least I perceived it that way. Riding it back to back with my buddies 16' Yz250fx without a rekluse was very noticeable when you would chop the throttle and coast. I came to really like having less. Found it less fatiguing. I had the Core 3 setup for low engagement.

So I wonder what’s the cheapest kit I could buy that will minimize engine break. Don’t really wanna spend 800 bucks haha.

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15 minutes ago, hpsailer124 said:


So it does get rid of some engine break? I just bought a YZ125 and after riding it once I liked not having any engine break like my 250f has.

I am no expert on it but I believe you can set it up to your liking. As I understand it the folks at Rekluse are very helpful and will walk you through all of your questions and concerns.

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I have used Rekluse EXP 3.0 and CORE 3.0 and engine braking with a Rekluse is the same as long as the clutch is engaged. If engine speed drops below hook up speed the clutch disengages and no engine braking.   Too much rear brake application that causes some wheel sliding that will slow down the engine enough for the clutch to disengage, a short throttle blip will re engage the clutch.

12 minutes ago, hpsailer124 said:


So I wonder what’s the cheapest kit I could buy that will minimize engine break. Don’t really wanna spend 800 bucks haha.

An easy way to reduce engine braking is to increase engine idle speed, it also reduces stalling at low speeds and from too much rear wheel brake.  Idle speed on XR is 1100rpm and I turn it up to 1600. My X is 1700 and I sometimes increase it to 1800.

Edited by Chuck.
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3 minutes ago, Chuck. said:

Engine braking with a Rekluse is the same as long as the clutch is engaged. If engine speed drops below hook up speed the clutch disengages and no engine braking.   Too much rear brake application that causes some wheel sliding that will slow down the engine enough for the clutch to disengage, a short throttle blip will re engage the clutch.

An easy way to reduce engine braking is to increase engine idle speed, it also reduces stalling at low speeds and from too much rear wheel brake.  Idle speed on XR is 1100rpm and I turn it up to 1600. My X is 1700 and I sometimes increase it to 1800.

Maybe its that transition from disengaged to engaged that makes it feel like less.  Cause I can definitely tell a difference when riding a rekluse equipped thumper and a non.  

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16 minutes ago, hpsailer124 said:


So I wonder what’s the cheapest kit I could buy that will minimize engine break. Don’t really wanna spend 800 bucks haha.

Sadly in the rekluse world I wouldn't go for anything less than the Core 3 or new CX.  If its with a hydro clutch than the Radius X is another good option.  But with a cable actuated clutch it makes the clutch pull very stiff.  For me, I think its important to retain manual clutch modulation with a rekluse.  Especially for obstacles and such.  Im constantly feathering the clutch lever still with my Core 3.  My buddies Radius X in his CRF250X has such a hard clutch pull that he is forced to almost always let the rekluse do its thing as it tires him out if he is feathering the lever.  He says it can be frustrating when hopping logs and such repeatably.  

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There are two adjustments that change engine braking behavior with a Rekluse; one is the drag setting in the Rekluse, and the other is engine idle speed.

Increasing clutch drag delays clutch disengagement.  Increasing idle speed reduces the effect of too much rear brake.  

I lengthened the engine clutch arm to reduce lever pull so the clutch is less tiring to use. MSR Pro Raptor, or Moose EZ pull lever and perch can do the same.

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I have had 3 rekluse complete clutches on my CRF450R's  (07 & 15) and an 09 CRF250R.  They all worked great however on the 15 CRF450R there was minimal engine braking.  The only time I really noticed it and didn't like it was right before big downhills.. I talked to the guys at Rekluse and they said to blip the throttle right before going downhill.  Yes it does work but sometimes if you don't know a downhill is coming up you have to hit it during the downhill and grab the brakes..

I really liked the rekluse.  Now with my 17 350XCF, I feel I am more agressive without one both racing and riding, hence the reason I have not put one on..

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