16 WR250R starts but dies after 1 min won’t idle

[onesaintsfan]

2016 WR250R.  Was riding trails. Check engine light came on but bike continued to run.  Stopped check oil and temp ok. Made it back and bike began to idle rough and died.  Bike has FMF header and Q4, AIS eliminator, Servo eliminator, and EJK programer. Ultimate airbox mod done.  Bike starts and runs fine when cold then after a min won’t idle and backfires.  When I hold throttle open just off idle bike RPMs rise and fall on their own. No check engine light on.

1). I disconnected battery for one hour.  No change.

2). I am about to empty tank and put fresh fuel and spark plug in it as well as bypass the EJK.

any guidance at this point is much appreciated 

[woods-rider]

Count the flash pattern of the CEL, it’s a diagnostic code that you can look up which will give you an idea of where to look for the problem.

[onesaintsfan]

I put new fuel in and took the EJK out of the loop and no change.  I reved the hell out of it and now it will idle but it’s hard to start when warm and the check engine light is on.  I’ve put the EJK back in the loop. I had a 13 & 30 fault codes present which I cleared.  I’m going to put a new spark plug in, but don’t believe that’s the problem.

I have watched the video on calling up the diagnostic mode and have done that.  All the parameters seemed in check other than the fault codes.

what is the CEL?

[BluePill]

A vacuum sweep test is what confirmed my bad pressure sensor when I had Code 13 and symptoms like yours.  Use a hand vacuum pump and a guage to sweep the sensor and look out for sudden drops.

 

 

 

 

 

 

You can also do a throttle snap test like this.  Make sure the voltage does not go below 1.2 volts.

 

 

With the seat removed you can backprobe the ECU connector:

 

Edited November 6, 2017 by BluePill

[onesaintsfan]

I’ve read go to diagnostic 3 and hit the start button.  If the value changes the sensor is good. But if it does not it’s bad.  It did not say if the kill switch was on or not.

on mine with kill switch on value is 100 and does not change.  With kill switch off engine turns over, does not start and value changes.

what do you think ?

Also read just unplug it and ride.  ECU will default to a base map and run fine.

this is an expensive part and bike is a little over a year old with only 2400 miles on it.

sucks

[Gary903]

I have a 2017 WR250R with the FMF Q4 exhaust, servo eliminator, AIS eliminator, EJK fuel programmer and airbox mod....I have noticed as well, while riding in 5th or 6th gear around 95-105 km/h the bike will completely loose all power, almost stall.  I have to let go of the throttle and then open it up again to regain power.  The problem has been getting more frequent and worse.....anyone with any ideas as to the cause???

[BluePill]

Step one always with any programmer: Bypass the programmer by returning all connections to stock. See if that cures the problem.

[BluePill]

20 hours ago, woods-rider said:

Count the flash pattern of the CEL, it’s a diagnostic code that you can look up which will give you an idea of where to look for the problem.

CEL = Check Engine Light.

 

In the case of the WR250R it does not blink codes.  They are read out via the diagnostic display process (in the above video).

[onesaintsfan]

Check on the EJK Site .  They tell you what to change if your having this problem.  Mine did it twice .

[onesaintsfan]

Checked all I could . New IPS ordered.  Let’s hope the WR knows what it’s asking for

[woods-rider]

CEL = Check Engine Light.
 
In the case of the WR250R it does not blink codes.  They are read out via the diagnostic display process (in the above video).

My bad, I was thinking WR250F

[onesaintsfan]

Got the new IAP Sensor.  Put it in and success.  Bike runs fine.  While I had all apart I made the adjustment to the EJK mentioned above.  Found a used IAP  on eBay for $16.99 so let’s hope it holds up. $90+ for a new one is ridiculous!   May snag another one tonhave a spare.

[Monica]

I'm resurrecting this thread, please indulge me.  It came up in my troubleshooting search for symptoms.  

On a recent trip to Big Bend my bike stalled, sputtered and died on me, left me and my riding buddies stuck an hour from home.  Had to be rescued.  The WR is exhibiting the same problems described by onesaintsfan.  Right now it will eventually start, idle, then putter out as if it ran out of gas.  (I have a video, just figuring out how to upload it).

It was a sudden onset condition trying to leave a gas station after filling up, so much so we though I got bad fuel.  We got all new fuel from a different station, ran a cleaner and the problem remained.  We get the bike back home from the trip.

We checked the codes that night while stranded and have troubleshot over the last couple weeks:

13 - Intake Air Pressure sensor

19 - Sidestand Switch  - old code from last year w sidestand shortening work, switch good

30 - Lean Angle Sensor  - bike started and ran well long before the condition onset, it hadn't been down

33 - Ignition Coil - new code so I replaced spark plug and coil, sputtering/stalling issue remains

42 - Speed Sensor  - old code from speedo healer going out last year, replaced with a new unit, speedo good

46 - EFI Power Abnormal  - old code from reg/rec going out last year, replaced w new unit, reg/rec and power issues good

 

All the codes were cleared and the bike was started in hopes that it would relog the likely problem.  It hasn't.  I don't understand why.

 

So, that brings me to this thread, it popped up in our troubleshooting googling.  BluePill we attempted to chk the throttle snap voltage on the IAP sensor while starting and idling the bike, we showed 1.52v across the pink/whi and blk/blu terminals but were not able to actually snap the throttle, the bike wouldn't start to idle at that point.  But we question if our method was sound.  Since the bike has a safari tank, we had to run jumper wires between the switch terminals and harness in order to have enough room to get the multimeter probes in there.  And the tank was being held up out of the way.  That test was kind of a bust for us.  Is there another option to test that IAP sensor, or at this point am I at is to replace it and see if it works?  I hoped to avoid throwing parts at it, but our next trip is coming up first weekend in April and I'm running out of time.  

I really hope it isn't the ECU.  

Thoughts welcomed for fresh eyes and brains.  Thanks.

[Monica]

On 3/15/2020 at 12:39 PM, Monica said:

13 - Intake Air Pressure sensor

19 - Sidestand Switch  - old code from last year w sidestand shortening work, switch good

30 - Lean Angle Sensor  - bike started and ran well long before the condition onset, it hadn't been down

33 - Ignition Coil - new code so I replaced spark plug and coil, sputtering/stalling issue remains

42 - Speed Sensor  - old code from speedo healer going out last year, replaced with a new unit, speedo good

46 - EFI Power Abnormal  - old code from reg/rec going out last year, replaced w new unit, reg/rec and power issues good

 

In the interest of follow-up...

Replaced the IAP sensor.  It offered no significant change.  It did reset code 13.  I'll eventually get with a buddy to borrow his ECU if nothing else works. 

But, because of corona virus shelter in place quarantine, I decided to order a new fuel pump and regulator from Quantum off Amazon, should get here Saturday.  I'll install it this weekend.  My bike is 8/08 build date and xxx2917 vin and just over 12k miles.  I've suspected it, but in the interest of troubleshooting I didn't jump to it right away.  It does fall into the recall range Yamaha posted:  http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&tl=en&u=http://www.yamaha-motor.co.jp/recall/mc/campaign/2009-05/fuel-pump/index.html

I'm like the 3rd (4th?) owner so unknown if the pump was ever swapped out.  I'm going on assumption it hasn't.  At this point, can't hurt.

I'll report back. 

 

[Monica]

Installed a new pump and regulator today, the bike is idling like it should.