Battery Eliminator for 1987 TLR200 Reflex

I have a street legal 1987 TLR200 Reflex, I want to dump the battery box and the gell cell battery but keep my Lights. I asked about using a Bat-Pac battery eliminator, Quote"The Bat-Pac is not compatible with the "Honda TLR200 Reflex" Thanks for you inquiry, Derek Nichols" <>


My Question to the forum is how do I dump the battery but keep my lights and not blow my bulbs if I over rev the engine on a missed shift or something. I thought a capacitor and the regulator would be the trick. I do not understand why it will not work when he says it will work with on a XL


Please explain to me...Is it the fact that the Reflex TLR200 has something other than a magneto with a lighting coil?



I did a TLR200R no battery setup last summer and used a 10,000uF capacitor (from ebay) as a battery substitute. Turn signals, horn, and LED tail light all work good. A functioning battery, or a capacitor,  filters voltage spikes that cause a regulator to over regulate. Symptom is dimming lights as rpm increase. 

Edited by Chuck.
On 11/6/2017 at 5:43 PM, Croatan said:

Thanks for sharing Chuck, so you wire in the capacitor in place of the battery and dumped the battery box? No blown fuses? I appreciate you taking the time to help me out.


Not that one try this, it worked on my project and is cheaper:

Chuck, I'd like to see how you use the capacitor to replace the battery.I am interested in where the capicator is placed on your frame. I am thinking of putting it in the air filter box. Using a short pig-tail to connect the Capacitor to the original harness. Hiding the excess harness/fuse holder, fabricated pigtail connector/capacitor in the top of the air-box I am hesitant to cut the battery leads as I might put this bike back stock if I ever decide to sell it.  Thanks a million, Tim


Sorry for the delay as I don't very often visit this forum.  

The cap was wired in just like a battery, so + to + and neg to ground.

The project was conversion of using a TLR bottom end and a XR top end in a XR chassis so I did all of the chassis wiring using a TLR harness, regulator, and rectifier. Then adding in an aftermarket lighting kit.
No battery so that wiring was removed from the harness.
The cap was mounted to the headlight shell so it could be easily removed with the light for trail riding.

Thanks Chuck,

I made up a pig-tail with the condenser which was then bolted to the original battery hook up and all of the battery box was removed. I removed the snorkel insert from the airbox and used the back section to hold the wiring w/condenser. Works great, the lights and horn work function like stock. I want to keep this bike street legal to ride from trail head to trail head. I thank you for your help with finding a condenser and your input which got that ungainly battery box off the back of the bike and still allowed me to have front and rear stock running lights/horn.


You might be interested in one of my current Honda projects. I am trying to fit a 1984 ATC 200 x motor into a 1974 TL125 K1. I am trying to work through several issues, such as, proper cooling to the head and barrel, fitting a wide ATC motor into the frame and deciding if 428 chain (due to the stock 60 T rear sprocket) is enough to handle the ATC200X engine's output.


Do you have any experience with external oil lines and a small oil cooler IE RTL250? I am hope full not to go to this extreme, but the ATC200 did have cowlings on the gas tank to direct air down over the heads.


Thanks a million for all your insight and providing me with parts help,



rtl250 engine in tlr frame with external oil cooling.jpg

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