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97 cr125 fouls plugs, jetting issue

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48 minutes ago, nino said:

I see that "sanded" piston. Hmm - why would you do that other than to hide a USED piston??

Anyway - i personally don't like Wiseco. The only failure i ever had in 30 years was with a Wiseco. I personally would suggest Vertex or Wössner. And most important is to actually know your bore (have it measured!) so you can order the correct piston size which is neither A or B ;)

 

That clutch lever can be pulled out but you need to remove the flywheel first. But that lever itself has no retention.It just comes out. By the way - that's one part which is often overlooked on those older CR engines. Its edges get rounded from use an will make for sluggish clutch action. This lever costs about 30$ and is definitely on the list of parts that need to be replaced after a couple of years!

Here's such a used lever:

37843474985_733041b949_z.jpg

And here's the worn edge/tip of that lever. That long rod which goes through from the left side to the clutch hub rides on that edge. If that edge gets worn the clutch action isn't the same anymore.

23866065607_8dbeb1dc61_z.jpg

About the sanded piston, the machine shop did that and drilled the holes... I hadn't ever seen that before but I guess that's what they do.. 

I'm glad to hear that clutch arm will slide out, I haven't pulled the flywheel yet I have to get a puller. Thanks for the info 

 

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I fully understand the holes on the exhaust side to get some lubfrification and cooling to the exhaust bridge. That's what Mugen pistons come with too and i do it as well on all my Vertex pistons:

19028226496_c163283a63_z.jpg

 

But the "sanding" seems really strange to me. Pistons are a high-precision item. You measure them in hundreds of millimeters and look for the exact size to go with your cylinder bore. Why would you "sand" a piston then? To make it slimmer when it is a thight fit? C'mon - nothing you would do by hand and nothing that happens on a stock piston which is too slim anyway leaving you with too much play to start with already.That's why i suggested you better get a quality piston in correct size...sorry - but this really stinks.

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18 hours ago, nino said:

I fully understand the holes on the exhaust side to get some lubfrification and cooling to the exhaust bridge. That's what Mugen pistons come with too and i do it as well on all my Vertex pistons:

19028226496_c163283a63_z.jpg

 

But the "sanding" seems really strange to me. Pistons are a high-precision item. You measure them in hundreds of millimeters and look for the exact size to go with your cylinder bore. Why would you "sand" a piston then? To make it slimmer when it is a thight fit? C'mon - nothing you would do by hand and nothing that happens on a stock piston which is too slim anyway leaving you with too much play to start with already.That's why i suggested you better get a quality piston in correct size...sorry - but this really stinks.

Yes, the more I think about it.. I'm sure you're right.. the machine shop I got it from specializes in shifter carts and they use honda motors and I guess that's what they do to their pistons.. I did think it was strange.. but I will probably got a different piston for it 😭.. but I need to find a new machine shop in my area first!

 

But I'm not in a huge hurry, this is my bike right now

Gotta have a winter time project lol

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Cool - resaturation projects are lots of fun. Doing your own bike bit by bit is rewarding.

 

I personally don't like coloured frames though. I'd have kept the stock colour. This would also add to the value once you want to sell it further on. But anyway - that's just personal preference. As mentioned riding your own creation will be much rewarding. Keep up the good work!

Edited by nino
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On 11/29/2017 at 3:55 PM, nino said:

I see that "sanded" piston. Hmm - why would you do that other than to hide a USED piston??

Anyway - i personally don't like Wiseco. The only failure i ever had in 30 years was with a Wiseco. I personally would suggest Vertex or Wössner. And most important is to actually know your bore (have it measured!) so you can order the correct piston size which is neither A or B ;)

 

That clutch lever can be pulled out but you need to remove the flywheel first. But that lever itself has no retention.It just comes out. By the way - that's one part which is often overlooked on those older CR engines. Its edges get rounded from use an will make for sluggish clutch action. This lever costs about 30$ and is definitely on the list of parts that need to be replaced after a couple of years!

Here's such a used lever:

37843474985_733041b949_z.jpg

And here's the worn edge/tip of that lever. That long rod which goes through from the left side to the clutch hub rides on that edge. If that edge gets worn the clutch action isn't the same anymore.

23866065607_8dbeb1dc61_z.jpg

Hey I got the flywheel off and that clutch arm is not coming out of there.. Do I need to remove the clutch from the wet side? Or maybe just the springs?

1512762379728618021900.thumb.jpg.51e8b8f38d1f573f0166cff64af9c00e.jpg

Once again my manual is no help here. It's a honda manual 92-97 cr125. What manual would you recommend?

Edited by lukeaulgur

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On 11/12/2017 at 9:06 AM, mlatour said:

Amsoil Interceptor and Lucas are often mentioned,

myself have been using Interceptor at 32:1 in my MX track ridden YZ125 since new with very good results.

 

I preventatively replace the piston & ring each season (about 25 hours) but each time they come out looking brand new, 

with about 100 hours total on the engine the cylinder's plating is now only showing a very few worn spots but is still serviceable.

Crank & rod bearings show no sign of wear.

 

Crisp jetting likely the reason but a strong point I've found for this oil is that any un-burnt excess doesn't cake up 

in the exhaust port & pipe, it remains in liquid form which can easily be cleaned off.

 

Versus constant WOT MX settings, a trail ridden 125 could easily benefit by going two steps leaner on the pilot jet

and lowering the needle.  Keeping the main jet a tad rich at premixing at 32:1 for those occasional wide open stretches.

 

I think there is actually more risk of seizure on a trail/off-road ridden 2-stroke

as straightaways (dirt roads, fields) are longer than what you'd find on the average MX track.

 

Hey what do you think about this premix 

My motorcycle mechanic swears by it..

It doesn't say anything about low flash point though.

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In general, anything that is referred to as 'racing' is more likely than not a high flash point oil

but if your search a bit on TT forums, someone once listed a bunch of premix oils and their flashpoint.

 

Your mechanic perhaps runs his engines harder than you do and, are well jetted for his application

hence the reason he likely doesn't have spooge and fouling problems no matter which oil he uses.

Edited by mlatour

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9 hours ago, lukea said:

Hey what do you think about this premix 

imagejpeg_0.thumb.jpg.c39e20fa1104ada4b8d4797cc3970958.jpg

Screenshot_20180109-174635.thumb.png.97e4da9f406704134478b8f974f8cd58.png

My motorcycle mechanic swears by it..

It doesn't say anything about low flash point though.

Bel Ray is really good oil and will work great in your bike.  I don't use it because I have found options that I like just as good that work well for me that don't cost nearly as much.  Lucas Semi synthetic 2 stroke oil is also really good oil but costs much less.

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9 hours ago, frdbtr said:

Bel Ray is really good oil and will work great in your bike.  I don't use it because I have found options that I like just as good that work well for me that don't cost nearly as much.  Lucas Semi synthetic 2 stroke oil is also really good oil but costs much less.

I looked at AutoZone for Lucas 2 stroke oil and I couldn't find any. I might try a couple other places.

I just want to find a good premix that I can find near me.

And yes that stuff is expensive. $13 and you can mix like 3.5 gallons at 32:1

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Amsoil Interceptor, 

if not available in auto parts or motorcycle dealerships nearby,

there are no doubt a few Amsoil distributors in your area.

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37 minutes ago, mlatour said:

Amsoil Interceptor

I looked it up on their website, there's a motorcycle shop about 25 miles away that has it.

Thanks

I will try it.. as soon as it warms up!

 

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As mentioned in an earlier post I use 32:1 for motocross,

jetted properly there is no spooge whatsover, the silencer's tip is barely moist.

 

What I really like about this oil is that the un-burnt excess does not cake up on powervalves,

it remains in liquid form so easy to clean when servicing the top end.

 

If you have other 'issues' with your engine 

this will help but it's certainly not a permanent 'fix'.

 

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9 minutes ago, mlatour said:

As mentioned in an earlier post I use 32:1 for motocross,

jetted properly there is no spooge whatsover, the silencer's tip is barely moist.

 

What I really like about this oil is that the un-burnt excess does not cake up on powervalves,

it remains in liquid form so easy to clean when servicing the top end.

 

If you have other 'issues' with your engine 

this will help but it's certainly not a permanent 'fix'.

 

Nice, well I think I fixed my fouling problem anyways, (the seal where the power valve arm goes to governor was leaking and filling power valve with transmission oil)

But I won't know for sure until I put a few tanks of gas through it

But I like the sound of this premix, because my power valves were not easy to clean

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On 1/14/2018 at 8:56 AM, lukea said:

I looked at AutoZone for Lucas 2 stroke oil and I couldn't find any. I might try a couple other places.

I just want to find a good premix that I can find near me.

And yes that stuff is expensive. $13 and you can mix like 3.5 gallons at 32:1

I've been able to get it at O'reilly's when I wanted to.  I have been ordering it by the gallon from Summitracing though as long as you buy $100 worth of parts with it, you don't pay shipping. Or you can try to find it on ebay which I have done before.  You can usually get a gallon for around $30 online.

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