Looking at this '13 300rr - Price good?

2013 Beta 300rr immaculate single track bike. Stillwell suspension front and rear the forks are Ohlins TT-X cartridge conversions. Fastway Linkage guard, Fasst Co Flex Bars, intergrated hand gaurds and anti-vibration pegs, GPR upper triple with sub mount stabilizer, Veta race wire loom, Beta shark fin anodized red, boano slave cylinder and case guard, tall seat, 1 ride on Golden Tyres, Hyde skidplate, Dirt Tricks rear rotor and sprocket, be front rotor and pads. Do not need to sell but thinking about up grading also a box of spare parts (pipe, pro tapers bars and aceribis hand guards, 2 other fuel tanks).

 

Just wondering if this bike is priced to high or right on point. I know it's a little older but it's well setup albeit the correct springs for my weight. Just unsure if that price is inline with current real value? asking $6000 might come down to $5800

 

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Edited by Wrfrk

Its a 13 with a lot of bling. How many hours?  Price seems high to me by about $1000.

Where's it located?

Where's it located?

40 hrs on top end and I’m in Utah. I got it 5800. Loads of extra parts and stuff.

Start there and see what happens. I’ve had much better luck stripping parts and selling the bike lower, but it’s such a shame to do.

Heck.  It looks super clean and the new bike nags have probably been worked out by what appears to be a good mechanic.  Plus it has the right accessories.  I'd feel good about the purchase.  Rode Baumgartner ID last year but didn't make it this year.  We were a little early in the 2016 season and has some hairy creek crossing and unpassable snow at high elevation.  Good area.

Cheers.

I did end up picking it up for price above and sent suspension off to Stillwell today to get correct valving for my weight as well as springs. Looking forward to getting a trail ride or 2 in before the snow hits the ground..

On ‎11‎/‎7‎/‎2017 at 4:02 PM, bryanaverill said:

have probably been worked out by what appears to be a good mechanic

Front brake line routed incorrectly. :busted:

7 hours ago, shrubitup said:

Front brake line routed incorrectly. :busted:

I bet that's because he wore though the OE line. It rubs on the fork guard when routed to the inside. Some of us think the 13 engine is better than the latter models. 

Edited by hammer41

Yes, as a 300 I liked mine better than the newer ones I've ridden. They changed the porting at least starting with the '14 Race model. The '13 was unique in that it had just a hair less bottom but revved out better. The newer bikes, to me, feel more like a KTM or GG 300, more bottom pull and less over rev. Why I'm keeping my '13 300 top end kit.

12 hours ago, hammer41 said:

I bet that's because he wore though the OE line. It rubs on the fork guard when routed to the inside. Some of us think the 13 engine is better than the latter models. 

Why would/could it rub, isn't it stationary at the guard and caliper? Should be no movement or wear. Much more vulnerable on the outside.

Edited by YHGEORGE
11 hours ago, YHGEORGE said:

Why would/could it rub, isn't it stationary at the guard and caliper? Should be no movement or wear. Much more vulnerable on the outside.

I think it's from the guard hitting the upper fork tube. Mine is worn and a buddies 430 pop a line while riding. 

I'm actually wondering how it is that the line is run improperly? Looks fine to me but then I don't know how it was run when new...... once I get it all put back together I'll have to pay attention to this. Currently the suspension is with Stillwell getting squared away for me... 

3 hours ago, Wrfrk said:

I'm actually wondering how it is that the line is run improperly? Looks fine to me but then I don't know how it was run when new...... once I get it all put back together I'll have to pay attention to this. Currently the suspension is with Stillwell getting squared away for me... 

This is the once proprietary Honda CR cable routing (look it up!). Easy to fix. Remove caliper with two bolts and snake it up and then through the inside of the fork guard. If the fork guard tends to rub the cable raw then I would cable tie old cut up inner tubes around the cable where it has potential to contact the fork guard. Leaving it as is makes it vulnerable to trail trash ripping the cable off the bike (or a hole in it too). 

Ok I see what you're talking about now. I'll make sure to correct this when I put it all back together... :thumbsup:

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