Jump to content

Newb triple clamp offset question.

Recommended Posts

On a 18 te300..... assuming your are most concerned with performance on steep inclines.... gnarly slow moving stuff and hill climbs... does it help to move

the triple clamps up or down on the forks? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Move forks UP for better handling in technical terrain, meaning more fork tube showing above the top triple (it is confusion as this is sometimes referred to as moving the forks down).  You should have 3 marks on your forks and I beleive the OEM setting is the 2nd notch.  Move to the third mark, the 1st would be for moto-x type riding, the 2nd for intermediate and the 3rd for more technical.

So the bike will turn better on the 3rd notch with a little less high speed stability.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sweet! Thanks.... it's hard to find info on some of this stuff and I don't know anyone so I appreciate it!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Moved to lowest position in forks...magic for steep and techy stuff.

Also, I got a huge back tire 120/100 cheater shinko.... fatty front.... the only downside i see from this setup is it tends to plow a bit more in turns, understeer. My question.... is this the clamps position, huge tall back tire, or some of both? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, flesh said:

Moved to lowest position in forks...magic for steep and techy stuff.

Also, I got a huge back tire 120/100 cheater shinko.... fatty front.... the only downside i see from this setup is it tends to plow a bit more in turns, understeer. My question.... is this the clamps position, huge tall back tire, or some of both? 

moving to lowest position will tighten up steering.  re-check sag.  fatter and wider tires will hamper turning all around.  the only benefit would be added traction in gnarly conditions at cost of handling.  you need to decide which is more important.  I prefer standard size tires.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, of course, thanks. I also moved the rear wheel back.... and the bike was new before all these changes.... much more weight distributed 

to front wheel now than when sag was set. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


  • Similar Content

    • By Big64N
      Good condition with a long list of high end upgrade parts.
      Rekluse EXP 3.0 with cover and slave
      EVO- Ellensburg suspension tuning for 6' 200# expert rider
      Fork bleeders
      Trail-tech map switch
      Moose 1-1/8 flex bar
      CYCRA probend bar guards
      SXS skid plate with linkage plate
      Clutch and water pump guards
      Frame guards
      Fastway Evolution III pegs
      SRT Pro Armor radiator and rear rotor guards
      Acerbic Front rotor guard
      TM designs chain guides
      DID race chain
      Renthal sprockets
      Gripper seat
      FMF F-bomb header
      Dirt Tricks timing chain tensioner
      Pro Wheel, wheels
      Tubliss front and rear
      New top end and valve adjustment 60 hours old
      Many more aftermarket parts as well as spare parts and service manuals included in the sale.  Willing to include 4 sets of tires with 80% tread left for full price.
      Great bike with plenty of life left and set up for anything from single track woods to wide open dessert.
      Can hang with any of the 450's but is much easier to handle in the tight woods.
      Priced to sell at $6000.00 
      Willing to consider reasonable offers but no trades or carry.
    • By Dean.b
      Long story short I bought this 2011 WR300. The thing is mint, looks brand spanking new. The thing ran like a top, but only had one problem, a low idle. I was to lazy to fix it and just dealt with the fact that I always needed to keep a little bit on the throttle. My third ride on it, I took it to the florence dunes and the top end burnt up. I have just finished fixing it and all I need to do is break it in. I need to adjust the idle first though, and don't know if I'll have the idle too high until it starts. I don't want to hurt the motor on a fresh rebuild and want some opinions on what to do. Do you think it will be fine? How many turns out should I set the carb just to be safe?
      Any response helps
      -Dean
    • By dorilabo
      #Husqvarna
      #CR125
      #2-Stroke
      #Maintenance
      #Advice





    • By motoxtremist
      Just bought a used 2017 Husqvarna FC450. It's my 1st EFI bike so I'm hoping someone can help me out with this issue.
      After starting the bike cold and idling for about a minute or two, it blows a puff of blue smoke from the exhaust pipe if I roll the throttle. It also does this if I stop to talk to a riding buddy on a trail or on the side of the track, let it idle, and then start out on track again. After revving it once the blue smoke is gone but riding buds have told me they smell and occasionally see a puff of blue smoke when following me - not a constant stream just a puff and then it's gone for a while. I'm talking to myself over trying to locate the cause of this as a leak-down test shows no issue. 
      Bike history
      Bought used with 70 hours on it. 
      Original owner had an FMF header and tailpipe on it which he kept. He sold it to me with the stock pipe. He never had it remapped for the FMF pipe
      Started it's life in Atlanta GA 
      Now mostly ridden at sea level
      He told me he used mineral-based 10w-40 Yamalube oil. The manual calls for 10w-50 Ester-based synthetic - which the bike is now running. 
      This is what I've tried so far:
      Leak-down test produced only a 3-5% loss.
      No bubbles in the coolant with the cap off
      No air leak at the exhaust pipe
      No leak at intake
      Barely, barely noticeable hiss when I remove the oil fill cap - but again not enough to lose any more than 5% pressure during the leak-down test.
      Wouldn't matter but checked the valve clearances while the valve cover was off. They were in spec.
      No loss of power
      No milky engine oil from a coolant leak
      No loss of engine oil as seen at the engine oil level window - never needed to add oil between changes
      Talked to someone who builds motors for a living and he said "all KTM/Husqvarna's do it especially when cold because the EFI delivers more fuel on startup as opposed to running at operating temperature". I guess I can see that but why does the bike blow blue smoke at operating temperature then if I pull off the trail or track for 1 minute to ask one of my riding buds something? I'm not letting it idle for minutes at a time. 1-2 minutes tops. Is this just normal for KTM/Husqvarna/4-stoke racing bikes?? Any help would be greatly appreciated!  Former bikes where 2-strokes (CR250, RM125) and a 1993 DR350 which I could've let idle for 20 minutes an not seen blue smoke - but that was a carbed bike. I've always known if a 4-stroke is smoking blue it's burning oil and you shouldn't keep riding it. So I'm a bit concerned about whipping it around the track or taking it out a few miles on trails.
       
    • By MotoXRacer_19
      As the title suggests, I've been debating the idea of throwing in a high compression piston. It will bump the compression in my 2014 KTM 350 XC-F from 13.5:1 to 14:1. First and foremost my main question is, because I live under 1000 ft and usually run 97 octane REC gas, will I have to change the fuel I run or not? Also, will I have to change out the cams to aftermarket and re-time the whole motor and ignition? I guess I really don't know what to expect so any advice will definitely help! Attached below is a photo of the bike I plan on putting it in.  

×