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yz125 clutch wont disengage fully

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When my bike is not running, I noticed if I put my bike in gear and squeeze the clutch all the way in and roll the bike, the clutch is not fully disengaging and it is turning the engine over. Last week I took it out for a ride and noticed I also cannot start it in gear without giving it a good amount of throttle and if I stop in gear with the clutch squeezed all the way in, the bike will stall. I have no clutch slippage issues or any other problems I can recognize other than the clutch not fully disengaging. I figured it was likely a stretched cable and they're cheap so I put a new motion pro cable in this morning and adjusted it properly and I'm still having the same issue, I have not rode the bike with the new cable but I put it in 1st gear and tried to roll it with the clutch squeezed all the way and it was still turning the engine. What else could be my problem???

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1 hour ago, Zach7018 said:

When my bike is not running, I noticed if I put my bike in gear and squeeze the clutch all the way in and roll the bike, the clutch is not fully disengaging and it is turning the engine over. This is normal on a two stroke and most motorcycles in general because of the constant mesh transmission, gears are always turning without syncros. Last week I took it out for a ride and noticed I also cannot start it in gear without giving it a good amount of throttle and if I stop in gear with the clutch squeezed all the way in, the bike will stall. Same answer. I have no clutch slippage issues or any other problems I can recognize other than the clutch not fully disengaging. I figured it was likely a stretched cable and they're cheap so I put a new motion pro cable (OEM is way better for the little more price) I have had bad aftermarket new cables in this morning and adjusted it properly and I'm still having the same issue, I have not rode the bike with the new cable but I put it in 1st gear and tried to roll it with the clutch squeezed all the way and it was still turning the engine. What else could be my problem??? Notched basket. 

Key words into search engine:

Notched basket

Bike will not roll

You will run across many topics and have a good read. 

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I had the same issue. While on the stand and bike idling I would put into gear and the bike would die. So after asking around what I did was changed the clutch plates and springs with Hinson. Then I put a new clutch push shaft in that crosses over from the clutch cam inside the cover by the front sprocket to the clutch plates. And I also changed out the clutch cam where the cable hooks up to. After that it was fine. Yes my basket had a little notching in it but nothing to alarming really, all I did was took a flat file and filed it a little and everything was fine. 

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1 hour ago, Yamalube317 said:

 all I did was took a flat file and filed it a little and everything was fine. 

How much time do you have on it since you filed the basket. I did some reading on that and got mixed reviews on whether or not it was a good idea. Basically from what I have read its ok if the notches aren't too bad and its only a temp fix. If it saves me from buying a new a basket for a handful of rides and theres no potential for serious damage then I'm all for it.

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File it down and your fine up to .050mm. YES, it is a temp fix but you get get many hours, not just a few rides.

Edited by 2 STOKE YZ DOC
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1 hour ago, 2 STOKE YZ DOC said:

File it down and your fine up to .050mm. YES, it is a temp fix but you get get many hours, not just a few rides.

Absolutely correct 

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My 06 250 was doing this a couple months ago.

I filed the very small notches out of the basket thinking I fixed it but it didn't help.

I ended up replacing the clutch pack, it was wore but not slipping at all, the disk seamed to stick together really bad. The new clutch pack was atleast a mm or two thicker than the old one so the old one was wore down quite a bit.

I put a tusk competition clutch pack in it, so far (4 or 5 2 hour rides) it works great and I can start the bike in gear when its warm no problem.

The competition clutch pack is only a few bucks more than the cheaper normal one and worth it IMO.

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I used Bel Ray Gear Saver 80w oil in my gear box, is it possible that my plates are sticking together just because of the heavy weight oil?

 

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8 minutes ago, TheAirborneCheese said:

Sounds like warped plates to me.

53 dollar solution...kinda hope thats it. Its a 15 year old bike, it probably could use some plates, don't know how it was treated before I had it but it looks like it was gentle. 

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52 minutes ago, biglake said:

My 06 250 was doing this a couple months ago.

I filed the very small notches out of the basket thinking I fixed it but it didn't help.

I ended up replacing the clutch pack, it was wore but not slipping at all, the disk seamed to stick together really bad. The new clutch pack was atleast a mm or two thicker than the old one so the old one was wore down quite a bit.

I put a tusk competition clutch pack in it, so far (4 or 5 2 hour rides) it works great and I can start the bike in gear when its warm no problem.

The competition clutch pack is only a few bucks more than the cheaper normal one and worth it IMO.

On a 250 the pushrod #1 and #2 are a wear item also. You might look to see how the ends are that touch each other. If #2 is mushroomed at the tip, this will cause the clutch to feel out of adjustment also. 

1 minute ago, Zach7018 said:

53 dollar solution...kinda hope thats it. Its a 15 year old bike, it probably could use some plates, don't know how it was treated before I had it but it looks like it was gentle. 

15 year old bikes usually need a new clutch pack. But, I would get into it, and have a good look before ordering parts. That way, everything you need comes in at once. 

36 minutes ago, Zach7018 said:

I used Bel Ray Gear Saver 80w oil in my gear box, is it possible that my plates are sticking together just because of the heavy weight oil?

 

I would say no. I run 80/85 Honda HP in all my 2 strokes, and tell whomever buys my restos to keep using as it is good and less than 6 bucks a change. If they do decide to change, I tell them to change to what they like, run it for two hours, and change it again, run for 5 hours, and change it again. This will get all the oil that was mixed out, and they can now keep using the brand they like. Same with fuel oil mix. You never want to change without running everything out of your tank before swapping. some Oils will coagulate and be a sticky power valve mess. 

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