Bearing install with hydraulic press

I am trying to install new crank main bearings and can only get them in halfway with the freeze/heat method.  Can I push them the rest of the way with a hydraulic press and a fitting from a bearing driver set?

Aluminum cases break really easily, sounds dangerous.

1 minute ago, HeavyRotation said:

Aluminum cases break really easily, sounds dangerous.

So is heat/freeze the only way?  How do they do it at the factory?

Yes BUT - Make sure the back side is supported so you aren't putting force on the entire case in some weird way.  Next, make sure you know when to stop.  As in when is it really "home".  I typically measure the bearing shoulder to the case (old bearing)  to know when the new one is in all the way - but that's just me.

1 hour ago, motoxvet said:

Yes BUT - Make sure the back side is supported so you aren't putting force on the entire case in some weird way.  Next, make sure you know when to stop.  As in when is it really "home".  I typically measure the bearing shoulder to the case (old bearing)  to know when the new one is in all the way - but that's just me.

Would it be better to tap it in with a mallet and installer tool?

I wouldn't beat them, I would start over. Case has to be damn hot, somewhere around 250 and clean. A frozen bearing should drop right in after wiping off frost.

2 hours ago, molloyjp said:

So is heat/freeze the only way?  How do they do it at the factory?

I would say they probably press them but have a mount and press set up to exact specs

1 hour ago, Smoking 2's said:

I would say they probably press them but have a mount and press set up to exact specs

How hot is too hot?  Can I put it in the grill for 1/2 hour at 400?

Every time I have watched this being done with the hot cold the bearing just drops in no force used.  Id wouldn't use a press, id be worried you will crack the case.

Press is very easy and not at all 'dangerous' OEM uses a press, so do most if not all shops.

Clean steel backing plates, proper size tool to ride on the outer race. Pop it in. I have been doing it for 40 years, not a big deal. When in a place with no press, I uses a hammer and a bearing driver. Still super easy. Freeze and drop is best (though oil the bearing before you freeze them or they will frost up and rust) then the press then the hammer method.

Here is a nice home made driver, notice it only presses on the outer race. Next is the typical kit of drivers.

Bearing-driver-2.jpg

$_3.JPG

Press is very easy and not at all 'dangerous' OEM uses a press, so do most if not all shops.
Clean steel backing plates, proper size tool to ride on the outer race. Pop it in. I have been doing it for 40 years, not a big deal. When in a place with no press, I uses a hammer and a bearing driver. Still super easy. Freeze and drop is best (though oil the bearing before you freeze them or they will frost up and rust) then the press then the hammer method.
Here is a nice home made driver, notice it only presses on the outer race. Next is the typical kit of drivers.
Bearing-driver-2.jpg.1955980452ddea2e5ff78f95ee101959.jpg
5a09efdd68ccf__3.JPG.0100860190c15175eb6b1618efcf7e4c.JPG

NOT dangerous? For you maybe, you have no idea how ham fisted I am. I break shit unintentionally erry day.

"oil the bearing before you freeze them or they will frost up and rust"

Nice Tip, thanks

2 minutes ago, HeavyRotation said:


NOT dangerous? For you maybe, you have no idea how ham fisted I am. I break shit unintentionally erry day.

Step away from the Pastrami sammicjh and put down the slaw.........

Step away from the Pastrami sammicjh and put down the slaw.........

Mmmm, p'strami.
18 minutes ago, William1 said:

Press is very easy and not at all 'dangerous' OEM uses a press, so do most if not all shops.

Clean steel backing plates, proper size tool to ride on the outer race. Pop it in. I have been doing it for 40 years, not a big deal. When in a place with no press, I uses a hammer and a bearing driver. Still super easy. Freeze and drop is best (though oil the bearing before you freeze them or they will frost up and rust) then the press then the hammer method.

Here is a nice home made driver, notice it only presses on the outer race. Next is the typical kit of drivers.

Bearing-driver-2.jpg

$_3.JPG

I have the same install set.  Should I just pop the outer race off the old bearing and use that between the new one and the installer?

4 minutes ago, molloyjp said:

I have the same install set.  Should I just pop the outer race off the old bearing and use that between the new one and the installer?

That is fine in a press, not so much with the 'tap it home' method as it can migrate off of the center too easily. The install tool has a centering component that keeps the tool centered and square.

51 minutes ago, molloyjp said:

How hot is too hot?  Can I put it in the grill for 1/2 hour at 400?

NO.

Too hot.

250 max for about 10 minutes in preheated, or the torch method until you spit bubbles. Always heat both sides evenly, and frozen bearings need to be in freezer for at least 48 hours. 

A press is fine if back side is supported.

1 minute ago, 2 STOKE YZ DOC said:

NO.

Too hot.

250 max for about 10 minutes in preheated, or the torch method until you spit bubbles. Always heat both sides evenly, and frozen bearings need to be in freezer for at least 48 hours. 

A press is fine if back side is supported.

When you say "back side supported", do you mean the rim that would touch the crankcase cover or the other side of the opening where the crankshaft would protrude?

1 minute ago, molloyjp said:

When you say "back side supported", do you mean the rim that would touch the crankcase cover or the other side of the opening where the crankshaft would protrude?

I'm talking about the backside of the bearing journal so you do not crack the case. 

Wish I could bring home the liquid nitrogen from work.....

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