2014 Suzuki RMZ 250 oil change

So I'm working on a 2014 Suzuki RMZ 250. There's two bolts on the bottom of the cases that you drain the oil. On the clutch side there's a fill hole on top and your filter. On the shift side you have your fill hole and your timing mark whole cover which is a small circular plug as well as the larger plug that you can turn the nut on the crank to line up your timing marks. Reading the manual it calls at small plug a fill hole so my question is do I put the oil in the fill plug hole for the crank side or can you fill it from the other side and does it fill both sides. Who knows how to do this correctly and I read the manual it's confusing it doesn't really make sense it calls the little plug of fill hole but you cannot it takes forever to put oil in there. I'm used to doing a Honda they have to fill holes and you drain it from two different areas. The Suzuki also has a drain hole underneath the shifter so basically there's three bolts you take out to drain the oil what's the best way to fill it up so you got both sides covered

Only the hole on the right side that points up. This is not a crf. That can get confusing. These aren't split crankcases.
Oil barely flows into the left side. Not like it is at clutch. You don't put anything into the left side holes besides when you turn the crank a socket goes in.
Only worry about the main drain bolt pointing down. You could drain the cavity by the shifter but not necessary.
And buy a BAG of aluminum crush washers and use a new one every time and tighten with torque spec every time. Longevity. And measure the oil amount going in. Don't just pour in and go off sight in the window.

Thank you so much that's what I suspected no split cases.

Yes sir. One crankcase. One oil. Oil wet clutch safe oil.

GN4 or Rotella...

 

 

Only the hole on the right side that points up. This is not a crf. That can get confusing. These aren't split crankcases.
Oil barely flows into the left side. Not like it is at clutch. You don't put anything into the left side holes besides when you turn the crank a socket goes in.
Only worry about the main drain bolt pointing down. You could drain the cavity by the shifter but not necessary.
And buy a BAG of aluminum crush washers and use a new one every time and tighten with torque spec every time. Longevity. And measure the oil amount going in. Don't just pour in and go off sight in the window.



Which bag of washers do you use? I just picked up a 2008 RMZ250 and was looking for the crush washers.

Aluminum.
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2014 has a site glass?

Who cares?
Pretend that never has existed.
MEASURE YOUR OIL TO PROPER SPEC.
I can't tell you how many people thought their bike was good off a window and it wasn't.
Not saying the never are. But you don't have a labeled measuring cup JUST for oil? Any oil on any bike has an amount. Gotta be damn good at eyeballin

Simple question - did not know if Suzuki changed and added a oil level window from the 2013 model that I have.  The factory capacity specified in manuals may or may not be correct.  At least 2 of the 5 bikes that I own require more oil than the manual lists to bring it to proper level.

Got you. My apologies

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