Jump to content

1985 XL600/XR600 Valve cover compatibility

Recommended Posts

Hello! I'm new here writing, but I have being lurking from long time ago. I'm from Chile, South America, and I have a klr650 who has been my travel ticket to everywhere, including the USA some years ago. 

Now I'm restoring a weird XL600LM version, called Pharaoh, is exactly the same as the LM but with different colours. That bike uses the same engine than the 1985 XR600.

Now It's almost ready, but it didn't start, so I take it to a friend who restore old bikes. Together we find out that the valve cover, that I bought in eBay from the US, and shipped to Chile (because the original one was crap), was from a 1985 XL600, not from a 1985 XR600, as the seller stated in his add. I installed it but the bike never started. 

 

I'm trying to find out if that XL600 valve cover will work in the XR600 engine, So I don't have to buy and spend again. 

I still have the old valve cover. 

 

Can anybody help me with information? Maybe I'm not totally screwed?

 

Thanks very much and sorry if my English is not good

IMG_4357.JPG

IMG_4920.JPG

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As far as I know the covers should be the same except color. What exactly is the difference between the two covers. I know that the later to current covers use one wider rocker arm but that is all that is different.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, mcma111 said:

As far as I know the covers should be the same except color. What exactly is the difference between the two covers. I know that the later to current covers use one wider rocker arm but that is all that is different.

I notice in the parts diagram some differences, like the XL600 one uses some 12mm wave washers and the XR600 one doesn't. My biggest concern is that maybe the rocker arms are different or maybe they have different angles or actuation

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, S.O.A.N.Z said:

in the xl diagram - it has 2 valve lifters - xr diagram only has 1 valve lifter :excuseme:

 

xr.png

xl.png

Oh ok, maybe I explained myself wrong. My concerns are not about the cover itself, it's about the inside of the valve cover, the rocker arms. 

Thanks for the diagrams, at least at the outside are almost the same

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The XL600 has the fifth valve that opens onto the chamber at the left rear of the head. The XR600 does not have the fifth valve. Other than this the rocker cover should work. The fifth valve is activated by the cable from the kicker assy. Everyone that I knew that had a XL600 removed this cable and threw them away thus only using the handle bar decom lever.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, mcma111 said:

The XL600 has the fifth valve that opens onto the chamber at the left rear of the head. The XR600 does not have the fifth valve. Other than this the rocker cover should work. The fifth valve is activated by the cable from the kicker assy. Everyone that I knew that had a XL600 removed this cable and threw them away thus only using the handle bar decom lever.

Excellent! Thanks very much!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What is difference between the rocker arms? Unless the seller sent you a later rocker cover that does have different rocker arms/positions

Edited by mcma111

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 13/11/2017 at 8:47 PM, mcma111 said:

What is difference between the rocker arms? Unless the seller sent you a later rocker cover that does have different rocker arms/positions

I went to my friend's shop and I compared both covers. Look very similar but different

IMG_20171114_160431877.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
20 hours ago, Oupoot said:

i want to buy that XL600LM i pay a Gazillion Dollars and a Kidney :)

price in negotiable

 

Regards

Oupoot

Actually I have to sell it after I'm done with it, if you are really interested and you know how, I can help with the shipping... Or you can fly here and ride it home... The price will be way lower than a gazillion dollars, and despite that the kidney offer sounds tempting (my kidneys make stones), I thing shipping will ruin it. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Zaplaje said:

Actually I have to sell it after I'm done with it, if you are really interested and you know how, I can help with the shipping... Or you can fly here and ride it home... The price will be way lower than a gazillion dollars, and despite that the kidney offer sounds tempting (my kidneys make stones), I thing shipping will ruin it. 

just for interest sake what is the market value for this LM version i have no idea but it has to be priceless!! i am from south africa and damm Honda did not sell them here so what would the value be?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, Oupoot said:

just for interest sake what is the market value for this LM version i have no idea but it has to be priceless!! i am from south africa and damm Honda did not sell them here so what would the value be?

The official model name is XL600R Pharaoh and it was for sale only in Japan, only 200 was made. Here in Chile the market for this kind of bikes is not very good, so I will try to sell it here for $4000 USD

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Put the bearings on the cam and place it in the rocker cover to check if the rocker arms line up with the cam lobes

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


  • Similar Content

    • By photonicreno
      Hi all!

       I've got an issue, one of many when it comes to bikes. I searched throughout all the pages I could find pertaining to my situation and couldn't find very much useful information.
      So the issue is, the bike has no electric start.... until it's hot enough to melt steel that is. It will bump start first time every time. But I can sit and crank the starter over for ever and it'll never start until the charger is bumped up past 200 amps. Not good.

       The story so far,
      Got the bike for 1k cash. Guy said it has no spark and no second gear. This particular guy also only ever rode newer crotch rockets. Brought it home pulled the choke, attached battery charger and she fired right up. Ran like absolute crap, but oh well I figure it's an older bike with only 10k miles so it probably needs a good carb cleaning. Took the carb apart and didn't know I messed something up until way later(didn't tighten down main jet). Oh well she runs well enough if I can get her started. Moved from California to Oklahoma. Eventually found the money to fix 2nd gear, and as I am a certified Honda small engine technician apprentice I figured it would be no big deal. Completely tore down engine to it's roots replaced 2nd, and 5th gear(because 5th gear connects to 2nd on the countershaft) dogs were worn pretty badly on both. The engine looked quite good compared to most others I've seen. Put the engine back together as per the service manual. Did all the right steps including loosening the banjo bolts to test for proper oil pressure. I even tore apart the electric starter to clean the contacts and the brushes and replace the dielectric grease. Adjusted the valves as per the service manual, replaced all gaskets, o-rings, seals, and oil filter.
       Finally after about a month of waiting on parts and reassembly I get to start her, only she doesn't. Electric start is still giving me the same issues I've always had. So I replaced the Ignition coil, CDI box, and put a new battery in, plus the starter motor rebuild. Nothing. Still cranks forever. I said what the heck and tried to push it slightly down hill and bump start it, and voila... fired right up! Once she gets hot enough and the stator charges the battery enough it'll electric start... sometimes.
       So I looked towards ignition, used a tool called ignition mate. Pretty awesome tool if you can afford it. Well while cranking the ignition mate reads the spark plug is getting 1-4kw of "spark" every cycle, well it only fires after getting up past 5kw sometimes 6-8kw. And sometimes the ignition would be intermittent as in it wouldn't give any spark at all. I cycle the ignition and it seems to soft reset the bike as it will usually give it back spark. I tested this with the new and old CDI box, the old one would never spark. Ever. So I threw it in the trash. A month later I stil l can't figure it out.
       Is there something I'm missing?

      TL;DR
      Bike won't start using electric start only bump start before and after engine rebuild
      Electric start works after pushing the starter past about 200 cold cranking amps or when hot.



       
    • By TheLastByte
      Contemplating picking up a BRP in the near future and looking for some perspective.The current owner claims that the bike has about six hundred hours on it, but there's no way for me to confirm as the odo's not accurate.
       
      I know brp's have a reputation for running forever on stock top ends, but they must eventually have an expiration date. What should I look for on a high mileage bike like this to make sure I'm not setting myself up for disappointment? Also, What are some non engine/transmission related issues I should look for?
    • By TanSnowman51
      Guys, 
      Have been riding my 650L for over a year and a half and have been loving every second! In August I moved back to Reno after finishing up my masters at Arizona State. I have been spending most of my time riding around verdi to stampede and the Dog Valley road area. Always looking for riding buddies. 
      Was curious what everyone was doing as far as Daves mods or jet kit for the upper elevations 4,000 to 8,000 feet?
      FMF Q4 exhaust, smog delete done so far!
       
      Thanks!
    • By Alexandre Askmo
      Hey dear folk!
       
      I need your help.
       
      A bit of background info, I’m a complete noob when it comes to holding a wrench and doing anything more than filling up the bike. I have however had an interest for as long as I’ve had a bike to make it mine, and that’s why I’m writing to you now. I just bought a donor bike, a Honda NX650 which a friend of mine is helping me fix up and then modify to my liking (I’m hoping to end up with a gorgeous scrambler in about 9 months).
       
      We found a hairline scratch in the cylinder and need to bore it. This leads me to my question.
       
      Should I get a 1st overbore performance piston or keep the compression ratio as is? If so is there anything in particular I will need to modify to tolerate the high compression piston?
       
      If I do get the performance piston, should I also get a new carburetor, hot cam, and new exhausts? I am planning on new exhausts anyway (2-1 from an XRL) and I’m planning on removing the airbox and getting a K/N pod air filter.
       
      Again, keep in mind I know nothing, my friend has however fixed up a bunch of XRLs and cars but never really used performance parts. Help me out with the decision please, I would also like to keep the whole build to a reasonable cost (I know this is a very relative number).
       
      I should also add that I want to keep the DNA of the bike, for example keeping the fuel tank instead of switching to a smaller rounder one as one usually sees in most custom builds. The aim of the whole build is to have an insanely fun bike to ride, both in the city and off-road, as well as giving it a bunch of my personality 😊
       
      Thanks a lot for any help!
       
      Best,
       
      Alex
    • By MrCitizen
      I've been rebuilding/restoring an XR650R for some years now (after toasting the motor in 2013). Sent the motor off to be rebuilt, had a local shop rebuild my forks and shock, and took care of most everything else myself.
      As of a couple months ago I had almost everything assembled and ready to run.

       
      As a final check before adding fluids to the bike, I decided to stick my boroscope into cylinder and take a look. The results were concerning.

       
      These boroscope pics looked so gnarly that I pulled the head off the motor to get a more thorough look.

       
      To say that I'm concerned is an understatement. I have pics of the motor internals pre-rebuild, and can confirm that this is definitely a new piston and replated cylinder. I also have all the old parts from the motor, so it does have a new cam, connecting rod, valves, and basically everything else I expected to have replaced.
      The builder "ran the motor briefly to confirm everything ran alright" and then shipped it back to me. I reached out to him with these pics and he said,
      The piston looks like this because he had it machined from 12:1 to 11:1 compression. The streaks on the cylinder wall are normal for one that isn't broken in yet. Regarding the valve impacts in the piston head: "My concern is that something may have passed through the cylinder. How does it run?" I've never run this motor. I can feel these streaks in the cylinder wall with my fingernail. Did he re-use a piston from some other motor?
      Is this dude jerking my chain or is this motor fine to run?
      He's a fairly well-known builder in the XR community and was recommended to me by guys in the (now-gone) XR650R forum.
×