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2008 EXC-R E-Start Dead.......Ideas?

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Hi fellas, this bike has been a money pit but I'll save you that headache....  Last ride I could not start via e start button...nothing happened when I tried to start it.

Came home, replaced battery with  a newer one I knew was good. It started 3x and I figured it was good.

Went for another ride and the e start died again on me. Relay fuses are good, battery is good, ground is good.

Any experience with this? Just wondering where I should continue my chase. Thanks for any help!

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Is the charging system working?  Does the fan run a lot especially after you stop the engine?  Have you added anything else electrical (heated grips, more powerful light, etc.) that adds to the power draw?

I found that on my bike ('07 525 EXC) that the fan would kill the battery quickly especially if I was riding lots of tight tech trails with low engine speed and the bike was running a bit hot.  I fixed the problem on mine by rewiring the fan to only run when the engine was running.

Another possibility:  Does the starter not work at all or is it intermittent?  A broken wire in the harness (mine broke were the harness runs along side the steering head) will give intermittent problems.  Try turning the bars fully to the right or wiggling the wires and see if the starter makes contact if this is a problem.

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Like exIT said....start it and put a meter on it.  Seeing how you replaced the battery with a used serviceable one and things were operational again....my money is on a battery.  

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On 11/17/2017 at 3:51 PM, exIT said:

Is the charging system working?  Does the fan run a lot especially after you stop the engine?  Have you added anything else electrical (heated grips, more powerful light, etc.) that adds to the power draw?

I found that on my bike ('07 525 EXC) that the fan would kill the battery quickly especially if I was riding lots of tight tech trails with low engine speed and the bike was running a bit hot.  I fixed the problem on mine by rewiring the fan to only run when the engine was running.

Another possibility:  Does the starter not work at all or is it intermittent?  A broken wire in the harness (mine broke were the harness runs along side the steering head) will give intermittent problems.  Try turning the bars fully to the right or wiggling the wires and see if the starter makes contact if this is a problem.

I don't have a fan, no accessories at all, it's totally stock aside from Trail Tech headlight which is pretty weak, so probably not an issue .   Starter is not intermittent, when its dead it's dead.   Tomorrow morning I'll put a charger on the battery after I test the charging system.  

 

On 11/18/2017 at 7:26 AM, Dirtbug26 said:

 

Dirtbug26 thanks for the video! I'll dig in to it tomorrow, thanks !

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Yes, sorry my post didn't go through from a few days ago. Anyway, I charged battery again, it started once with the button. After that I just got the "clicking" sound.  Before starting, battery read 13.31 volts, and read exactly the same while running.  So do you think this is looking like a regulator/rectifier problem?

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Okay, now I have tried both batteries, the original one read 12.8 static test, just got the click from the starter relay, same from the other battery which read over 13v static. That one was from a 250f, possibly fewer cranking amps? 

So, charging system is not sending any voltage to battery while running, and possibly need a new battery as well, age of it is unknown.

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2 hours ago, Dylan Kesner said:

Okay, now I have tried both batteries, the original one read 12.8 static test, just got the click from the starter relay, same from the other battery which read over 13v static. That one was from a 250f, possibly fewer cranking amps? 

So, charging system is not sending any voltage to battery while running, and possibly need a new battery as well, age of it is unknown.

12.8 volt static, if fully charged. Is really about minimal before issues, an AGM in excellent shape will read 13 volt , 12.9 is okay, but 12.7 or 12.8 you are getting into that borderline area.

Have you put a meter across the battery while running, whats the voltage?

 

also that model may not be a full DC model, the newer exc bikes are full DC like , regular street bikes

Edited by Spud786

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Okay I read 13.3 volts across the battery, that's too low to effectively charge a battery, so check stator grounds, and or wiring connection to regulator.

 

every stator that Ive had fail could not pass the ground test from all 3 yellow wires, use a high oms range

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11 minutes ago, Spud786 said:

Okay I read 13.3 volts across the battery, that's too low to effectively charge a battery, so check stator grounds, and or wiring connection to regulator.

 

every stator that Ive had fail could not pass the ground test from all 3 yellow wires, use a high oms range

So I use ohms setting with positive from meter on wire, negative on a ground?

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now the bike just started 2x in a row with the e-start!😠 while running, battery voltage got up to 13.6, wouldn't get higher,  revving or not....

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2 hours ago, Dylan Kesner said:

So I use ohms setting with positive from meter on wire, negative on a ground?

Use a very high ohms scale, so that you don't miss a SHORT,  any yellow stator wire(a dc system will have 3) , to ground, absolutely no continuity on any of those.

 

Now split Ac/ DC systems Im not failure enough with those to say

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Well......now I done it. Came back to the bike today, hit the starter, fired right up and ran for 5 seconds, heard a clunk and now it won’t turn over. Kickstarter is locked up as well. Did my bendix gear break off I wonder? Also, I will have a KTM for sale soon hahahah😑

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Ohhh boy, luck? No. Had it running with e start, shut it off, started it again, heard awful metal clunk, won't start or turn over, kick start will not move.   My slightly educated guess is nendux gear broke while extended? 

So frustrating.

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