2017 Beta Xtrainer -Plug Condition Newb

So, towards the tail end of our ride today, my Xtrainer starts acting out at low RPM's. Spluttering, low power, stalled like crazy multiple times on a hard climb. I thought I was out of gas, went to reserve, but still had the same issue. Even earlier when re-starting, I would have to rev it up to get going and this got worse and worse over the last hour until I was glad it was starting to rain so we called the ride over and went home.

I can also say that I was having trouble having it idle when stopped, clutch pulled in. It would start stalling. Even in Neutral.  It had seemed fine for almost 2 hours at the beginning of the ride (we were out for over 4 hours and rode 3.2 hrs).

One of the guys said "Spark plug is fouled -check it when you get home". So ok. I got home a few hours ago, and I just pulled the plug. Not sure if it's fouled. It is not oily at the tip at all.

Took three pictures with flash, so the pics are somewhat "bright". Does this look "fouled"?  I am going to change it anyway and start it tomorrow, warm it up, and see if the behavior goes away or persists.

 

ONE other tidbit of information. I ran low on injection oil (Motul 710) just before we were about to hit the trails so we went to a MX shop close by and they only had Amsoil Dominator, which apparently is also good for oil injected bikes ($18 with tax). I filled the injection tank outside the store. And the light went away for the entire ride. It was behaving fine.No more lights. 

 

Any experts? Thoughts?  Oh and I KILLED my shift lever HAHA.. Had to order a couple spares. Not related to my issue I think..

Spark Plug 1.JPG

Spark Plug 2.JPG

Spark Plug 3.JPG

Edited by ToolmanJohn

No expert here, but that plug looks like your running lean, opposite of rich (which can foul plugs).

My XT was running rich and once the plug is fouled it won't start at all, plugs look oily and black.

I would look at a jetting or maybe fuel issue...

Good Luck!

It's not fouled.  As mentioned above a fouled plug is usually a black fugly mess.  The pink tint on your plug is the AMSOIL Dominator oil.  I ran Dominator in my 2016 Xtrainer with both oil injection and premix.  It's great oil.

I agree with the previous post that you might be running lean.  Your ground electrode is really white in comparison to the center electrode, which indicates it's been very hot (sign of a lean condition.)  For reference, the photo below is my plug after 60 hours or so with Dominator oil.  When my plug color looks like this my bike is running great.

20170611.jpg

I don't know if it's your specific issue, but I had an issue with similar symptoms a few years ago on my old ktm 300xc. Turns out the pilot jet was getting clogged with debris...the in-tank fuel filter was cracked and letting crap into the fuel line. Didn't want to idle and ran like crap at low rpm...IIRC, the plug even looked like it was running lean.

OK great info guys. I'll look at that Beta jetting chart, and compare to the stock settings (which I assume for now are in that table too).

There's only 9 hours on my Xtrainer. And only the first tank of fuel is unknown to me (dealer filled with 100:1 premix for break in). I have filled it 3 times since then from my own 5 gallon fuel can bought NEW just for the Beta. So I know all the gas going into it is fresh and I have ridden it once a week in the last month. Each ride lasted 3-4 hours. I'll have to take the carb out again ( I cheeked the float level a couple weeks ago). Starting to think I'll have to start writing things down (jets, needles, air screw turns, etc)... Wish I didn't have to futz with it all the time.

Well, after checking, everything is stock per the chart, BUT not jetted correctly for my elevation 0-1000 ft or the temps 35-50°F . I find it strange that the behavior got worse as the ride progressed. The idle was "lumpy" before stalling each time, and on the throttle low openings stuttered madly no power and stalled a lot. Totally different from the first couple hours of the ride.

Float level still OK 7.5-8mm, at 60 degrees per sec. Seems fine, no gas leaking from overflow during ride, except maybe when the bike was taking frequent naps during unscheduled dismounts.

I'm ordering all the assorted mains and Pilot jets for my elevation and temps right now. Hopefully it's just a re-jetting. A true PITA to get the Keihin PWK carb out though. 30 minutes of disassembly. Gas on the garage floor. Little screws to keep track of

You indicated that the behavior was getting worse, so fair to assume it was fine before and deteriorated? If so, I'd start with cleaning the carb, check that the fueling can used is perfectly clean and clean or replace the Pilot jet.

I noticed my ‘16 had some very small black specs of debris from the gas tank early on (was running a clear fuel filter in line)... eventually cleared up after some tanks, but it’s possible you got some debris in there despite the cleanliness of the fuel going into the tank.

 I'm going to install an inline filter before buttoning it all up. I ordered some jets, I'll be putting new jets into a very clean and compressed air blown out carb.  Hope it solves it. Probably won't get the parts till Thursday or Friday.

Well thought I should update this posting.  It was my gas cap vent. Air was not getting into the tank, something was wrong with the green spring load vent built into the cap. Big suction hiss into the tank when it's cracked open. Bike runs FINE with cap off. Let idle for 10 minutes with cap tight, and it started acting up. I think the terrain, riding it in the woods would cause it to open enough to keep getting fuel to the carb, but only when there was a lot of gas in the tank. When the gas was lower, later in the ride, not enough internal tank pressure to open the valve, and the sticking valve caused issues (vacuum).

I yanked valve out of the cap, and pre-loaded that spring by squashing it nearly flat (MANY TIMES), which you shouldn't do normally to a compression spring as it will take a "set". But I wanted the spring to take a "set" at a shorter length, thereby weakening the valve to allow for easier airflow. Seems to have worked.

After reading the earlier replies here I was thinking the stupid vent valve, prior to getting tho the end of this subject. I bet at least 40% of those stupid things F-up on folks with Beta bikes. I know mine bit the dust within 300 miles from new.
But to Beta’s defense I’ve had a crap load of them from other OEM’s take a powder on me over the years, but never had one of the $10.00 specials that a lot of dirt bike shops sell ever mess up on me....

10 hours ago, ToolmanJohn said:

Well thought I should update this posting.  It was my gas cap vent. Air was not getting into the tank, something was wrong with the green spring load vent built into the cap. Big suction hiss into the tank when it's cracked open. Bike runs FINE with cap off. Let idle for 10 minutes with cap tight, and it started acting up. I think the terrain, riding it in the woods would cause it to open enough to keep getting fuel to the carb, but only when there was a lot of gas in the tank. When the gas was lower, later in the ride, not enough internal tank pressure to open the valve, and the sticking valve caused issues (vacuum).

I yanked valve out of the cap, and pre-loaded that spring by squashing it nearly flat (MANY TIMES), which you shouldn't do normally to a compression spring as it will take a "set". But I wanted the spring to take a "set" at a shorter length, thereby weakening the valve to allow for easier airflow. Seems to have worked.

Most remove it completely.

1 hour ago, drumiv said:

Most remove it completely.

The way gravity treats me, I'll end up dumping a lot of fuel on the ground! My poor Xtrainer spends too much time napping sideways, with me close by sitting on the ground.  I suppose if I leave the small hole in the cap intact, it wouldn't be too much fuel.

Beta switched to that funky green vent integrated into the gas tank cap beginning with the 2017 model year.  Prior to that the vent was a one-way valve in-line with the vent pipe running between the cap and the frame.  I've got one in my 2016 and it works great.

I wouldn't waste my money on those little $10 aftermarket pigtail vents.  They seem to fall off a lot.  In the past 2 years I've found 3 of them laying in remote trails after falling from other bikes.

The 2015/2016 Beta inline vent and hose is inexpensive and should fit your newer bike.

While reading through this thread for the first time I noticed that the carb was removed in order to change the jetting.  Perhaps the XTrainer is different than the 300RR but with my 300RR the needle and all the jets can easily be adjusted or changed without removing the carb.

Edited by Chas_M
5 hours ago, Chas_M said:

While reading through this thread for the first time I noticed that the carb was removed in order to change the jetting.  Perhaps the XTrainer is different than the 300RR but with my 300RR the needle and all the jets can easily be adjusted or changed without removing the carb.

I have NOT been able to do jetting, or even drain the float bowl, without removing seat, fuel tank, panels, exhaust silencer, and raising the subrame. I just remove the shock as well since that is easy and I have fill access to all the hoses coming off the carb. Mercy. Every time. It's part of my slight frustration. I did not realize there would be a lot of labor involved in adjusting the car, but of course we're stuck with it.

 

 I have read where guys are saying they can loosen the carb clamps and rotate the Xtrainer carb 90 degrees, and work on it without removing nearly everything.. No way in hell. I want to see a short video or pics of that. Seriously.

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