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FE501 Clutch Not Disengaging

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Has anyone had issues with their FE501 clutch not fully disengaging?  Mine is a 2017, about 1000 miles on it, 80% of it off road.  I had already ordered the Oberon slave due to worries about the Magura unit failing.  Issue just started after a recent ride, with the only difference being that day two was far colder than day 1.  I figured it might be the slave so I just replaced and bled the Oberon unit, but the issue remains.  The lever feels smooth and I can see the clutch moving through the oil filler, but exactly the same as pre-change, not enough to fully disengage. 

It doesn't stall at idle with the clutch pulled, but it won't release fully, and won't roll at all with the engine off unless in neutral.  All in all not a major problem, but it wasn't like this before.  I bought it in February (I live in VT), so my first rides were just as cold as now (low 40's), and was fine all summer, but it was the only major change between day one and two (other than the typical abuse a dirtbike takes being ridden hard).  I haven't done anything with the master, but it bled easy and appears to hold what movement it does produce without fading.

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Well isn't this embarrassing, I may have answered my own question already.  Wet clutch bathed in cold thick oil is natural going to have some excess friction.  I let it warm up to full operating temp to check for leaks around the new slave, and all is well again, nothing more than the typical light drag.  At least it gave me an excuse to make the swap.  

For anyone making the switch to an Oberon CLU-1000 slave, I had some minor clearance issues between the banjo bolt and the block.  Just rounded the bolt head corners a bit in the grinding wheel and all is well again.  Figured I'd mention it as it might save someone taking it off again to pull the bolt.  

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On 11/20/2017 at 4:12 PM, VTHusky said:

Well isn't this embarrassing, I may have answered my own question already.  Wet clutch bathed in cold thick oil is natural going to have some excess friction.  I let it warm up to full operating temp to check for leaks around the new slave, and all is well again, nothing more than the typical light drag.  At least it gave me an excuse to make the swap.  

For anyone making the switch to an Oberon CLU-1000 slave, I had some minor clearance issues between the banjo bolt and the block.  Just rounded the bolt head corners a bit in the grinding wheel and all is well again.  Figured I'd mention it as it might save someone taking it off again to pull the bolt.  

I had the same issue on the CLU-1000 prototype.  I mentioned it to Oberon.  They had already built a batch of units, and said on later units they would move the hydraulic line port outwards slightly to give a little more clearance.  I told them it's not a huge issue, like yours, the corners of the bolt hit ever so slightly.  One thing I do recommend is snugging up the unit to the engine before installing the hydraulic line, else if you have a corner of the banjo bolt facing the engine, you may not be able to tighten the unit to the motor/getting a good seal.  Worse yet, if you then over tighten, you could strip the mounting bolts or tapped engine holes, which would create a large issue.  

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