Oil injection removal

So I purchased the Beta OI delete kit and all the steps were easy enough except the last one. The last step is removing the wire into the computer. It states a 4 pin connector going into the computer behind the headlight shroud. My computer has a connector with a lot more than 4 wires going in. What connector and wire am I trying to disconnect? Anyone who has taken care of this that can help? I'm working on a 17' 300 RR. Thanks.

Yeah, those instructions were written for 2015 and 2016 bikes like mine that came with a speedo manufactured for Beta by Trail Tech.  In 2017 they went to a different manufacturer (in Spain I think) and the connectors are different.  But the wires on the Beta side of the harness are still the same.

You want to cut the pink wire with the purple stripe to disable the OI system warning light.  I think it shows as connecting to speedo pin #10 on the 2017 wiring diagram.

Yeah, those instructions were written for 2015 and 2016 bikes like mine that came with a speedo manufactured for Beta by Trail Tech.  In 2017 they went to a different manufacturer (in Spain I think) and the connectors are different.  But the wires on the Beta side of the harness are still the same.
You want to cut the pink wire with the purple stripe to disable the OI system warning light.  I think it shows as connecting to speedo pin #10 on the 2017 wiring diagram.
Thanks. Looking at the wiring diagram, you are correct that pin 10 on the trip computer is a pink with purple stripe. I can't find a way to confirm it is the oil sensor signal. It just traces back to the ECU. Did you cut this wire successfully yourself and can confirm it is the correct one? Is there a way to pull the wire out of the connector instead cutting it to preserve it like they describe in the old instructions?
Thanks. Looking at the wiring diagram, you are correct that pin 10 on the trip computer is a pink with purple stripe. I can't find a way to confirm it is the oil sensor signal. It just traces back to the ECU. Did you cut this wire successfully yourself and can confirm it is the correct one? Is there a way to pull the wire out of the connector instead cutting it to preserve it like they describe in the old instructions?


I tried to remove it from the connector but it wouldn't budge, so I just cut it and shrink tubed the end. I can confirm it's the pink wire with purple strip. 2017 beta 250rr. Removed the OI a few weeks ago.


I tried to remove it from the connector but it wouldn't budge, so I just cut it and shrink tubed the end. I can confirm it's the pink wire with purple strip. 2017 beta 250rr. Removed the OI a few weeks ago.
Thanks.
10 minutes ago, rehammer81 said:
1 hour ago, wwguy said:
Yeah, those instructions were written for 2015 and 2016 bikes like mine that came with a speedo manufactured for Beta by Trail Tech.  In 2017 they went to a different manufacturer (in Spain I think) and the connectors are different.  But the wires on the Beta side of the harness are still the same.
You want to cut the pink wire with the purple stripe to disable the OI system warning light.  I think it shows as connecting to speedo pin #10 on the 2017 wiring diagram.

Thanks. Looking at the wiring diagram, you are correct that pin 10 on the trip computer is a pink with purple stripe. I can't find a way to confirm it is the oil sensor signal. It just traces back to the ECU. Did you cut this wire successfully yourself and can confirm it is the correct one? Is there a way to pull the wire out of the connector instead cutting it to preserve it like they describe in the old instructions?

LMAO.  Your confirmation was supposed to be me telling you that I know that's the right wire to cut.  If you don't believe me that's fine, but I can't answer your question any further than that.

My 2016 has a different connector than yours, so I don't know if you can remove the wire from yours or if you'll need to cut it as described by NW-drz above.

FWIW: I've removed OI and the wire from mine, and I've helped others with the same question on bikes from 2015,2016, and 2017.

Edited by wwguy
LMAO.  Your confirmation was supposed to be me telling you that I know that's the right wire to cut.  If you don't believe me that's fine, but I can't answer your question any further than that.
My 2016 has a different connector than yours, so I don't know if you can remove the wire from yours or if you'll need to cut it as described by NW-drz above.

FWIW: I've removed OI and the wire from mine, and I've helped others with the same question on bikes from 2015,2016, and 2017.
Well when you said "I think" then I was looking for confirmation. Thank you for your help.

After removing my OI I discovered it was leaking at the L joint by the fuel pump. So glad GP talked me into it :).

21 minutes ago, NW_drZ said:

After removing my OI I discovered it was leaking at the L joint by the fuel pump. So glad GP talked me into it :).

Leaking as in go for a ride and run out of oil leaking? Yeesh.

Leaking as in go for a ride and run out of oil leaking? Yeesh.

No it was just a slow dribble, but still a leak.

Shrub have you got back out on the 300rr again yet?! I just set the float level on the 250 and am awaiting what Beta USA says about my fork wear.
11 minutes ago, NW_drZ said:


No it was just a slow dribble, but still a leak.

Shrub have you got back out on the 300rr again yet?! I just set the float level on the 250 and am awaiting what Beta USA says about my fork wear.

Not yet but thinking about tomorrow. Lil moisture in soil tho.




Not yet but thinking about tomorrow. Lil moisture in soil tho.


The Beta is designed for nasty enduro. She will be good :)

Alright guys. Took the bike out for it's first non-oil injected ride. Pre-mix was a little oil rich at 40:1 because I already had the 5 gallons mixed at 200:1 running in addition to the OI out of paranoia. I further mixed that fuel with oil for what would be 50:1if the fuel was fresh. By my calculations that should result in a 40:1 mix. I'm using the same Motul 710 that I was using in the OI.

First pic is plug from my last ride with OI.
The second pic is my plug after this first ride without OI. Basically the same ride.
Third pic is the spooge level after this last non-OI ride.
Does the plug look lean to you guys despite the spooge level?IMG_20171203_142632584.jpgIMG_20171203_164846448_HDR.jpgIMG_20171203_161328821.jpg

Don't judge be spooge especially if that is a Stealth spark arrestor. It will collect oil and then drool it out even if lean. 40:1 is good. Learn to jet for conditions. Suzuki needles have been excellent and easy to jet with in the Betas.

Regarding the plug: IMHO it's hard to tell the difference in jetting when still using the old plug after only 1 ride since the change.  For best visual results you should probably install a new plug or run the old plug for a while before inspecting.  It's also important to inspect the plug after running at mid-to upper RPM range for an extended period of time, and not after putting around slowly at low RPMs that allows the oil to load up without burning off.

Regarding the spooge:  If it was doing this previously with OI then your silencer packing is likely soaked with oil and it'll take a while to burn out and see reduction in spooge output.  Alternatively silencer packing is fairly inexpensive and easy to change out.  It's better to tune the engine for optimal power performance than to focus on spooge output, especially if you're riding across a wide RPM range.

Regarding your premix ratio:  What you call "oil rich" is also "fuel lean".  I.e. 40:1 premix results in leaner fuel-to-air mixture than 50:1 or 60:1 etc. because the extra oil displaces some of the fuel going through the carb.  With the carb properly jetted 40:1 premix should run fine without that much spooge (except when running at low RPM for extended periods.) That said, Beta recommends 60:1 for the non-OI two-strokes, including the 300RR Race Edition.  Most important is to jet the bike for your particular premix ratio, elevation, and riding style.

Regarding jetting: I must confess that I'm jetting stoopid and could never get the hang of adjusting the various combinations of needles, clip positions, and jets for the 2,500' to 10,000' variations in elevation and 50 degree F temperature swings we sometimes ride here in Idaho from one weekend to the next.  So I swapped the stock carb for a jetless Lectron carb with basically only one metering rod to adjust.  Not saying it's "better", but I am saying that it works great for me and that I'm still jetting stoopid.

I ran 40:1 premix with AMSOIL Dominator oil most of this year and my plug and pipe were drier than what I see in your photos. Below are a few photos for comparison.

Here's what my spooge looks like after 40 miles or so running 40:1...

20170910.jpg

 

Here's what my plug looked like last fall after 10 hours or so at 40:1...

20161111.jpg

 

And here's what it looked like this summer 120 hours or so later.  (The pinkish red tint is the red dye in the AMSOIL Dominator oil.)

20170611.jpg

2nd 300RR piston. Approx 75 hrs. 36:1 Dominator, good jetting.

IMG_1015.jpg

2nd 300RR piston. Approx 75 hrs. 36:1 Dominator, good jetting.

IMG_1015.thumb.jpg.4ce433b6b7cbe097d019fa18a3009638.jpg


Stop showing off GP ;)
4 hours ago, GP said:

2nd 300RR piston. Approx 75 hrs. 36:1 Dominator, good jetting.

IMG_1015.jpg

Most guys record their piston sizes ... Glenn just keeps on top for easy reference ... :thumbsup:

If I wasn't so surprised I wouldn't have taken the pic.:jawdrop:   I'll add this is with a stock 300 head that I never had modified to tighten squish.  It does demonstrate that premix ratio has little to do with engine cleanliness if jetting is correct.

I'm in Tucson AZ at 2,500-3,000ft give or take a little for most of my riding. We are finally cooling down. Mid 70's now. Low to mid 60's in the middle of day is about as low as we'll get unless a storm is blowing through. Any jetting suggestions? We are kind of right on the edge between settings on the Beta jetting chart. I'm pretty new to riding and not very good are deciphering the difference in feel from jetting changes.

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