canonball

Starter motor question...

14 posts in this topic

I've got a '96 DR350S, starter gave up on me and I'm trying to get it pulled from the bike. Been searching around on the web and I can't find anything specific to the DR and all the other forums and videos I found in my search told me what I already know. So this is where I'm at, I've removed the lead from the battery (after disconnecting the battery itself), removed the two bolts that secure it to the block, and I should just be able to wiggle it out at this point right? I'm having a little trouble getting it out and just want to make sure there isn't anything I'm missing before I start really manhandling it and break something else. The crank case cover doesn't need to be removed does it? 

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A couple of judicious whacks with a rubber mallet or the like might help.  But my Cyclepedia manual says remove exhaust and camshaft oilpipe, the starter lead and the two mounting bolts, and pull it on out.  (I like Cyclepedia.com, I've used their Gen1 KLR manual a lot, and the DR350 one some.  Color pix, and they're very responsive if you ask them to add info.  Very reasonable subscription prices.)

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Thanks for the replies, that's great, just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing a step and damaging it in the process. Got it pulled and tested, starter looks good, which is sort of good news? Just means my adventure continues into solving my starter issue. Battery is new and shows proper voltage, I tested the solenoid a while back but I'll check that again, if that's good then would the next step be the starter clutch you think? When I started having issues the starter sounded like it was doing something, like a light whirring, but not cranking the engine. 

 

I did come across cyclepedia a while back, good to know that it's a good resource! I'm really surprised that there's now clymer manual for this bike? It's such a common and sought out bike but I haven't been able to find any kind of service manual for it other than cyclepedia. I had a clymer manual for my first bike and man I loved that thing, especially since I like to do all my own work but in no way am I a mechanic lol just nice to have something to guide you through a repair without having an "oh sh*t" moment

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There is a Clymer manual, their pub. no. M476.  Mine is "7th printing, 2013," but there may be a newer version.  I have the same manual as a searchable pdf, in case anyone's interested.  ¶  The Suzuki manual from thisoldtractor (thank you TOT) used to have some pages missing, I'd like to think I recall having let them know.  I found a complete version, have it on pdf as well (427 pp). ¶  From that, I deleted everything that was specific to models other than the SE, so I have a 168-page manual that's fit to my SE.  ¶  Last, I made a SE models-only versin of Also on pdf I have Suzuki's Spare Parts Catalog but for the 1997-99 SE models only.  ¶  I bought a manual from "Techspark", in a format that was unnecessarily complicated and didn't work well anyway.  They sent me a free pdf (which they'd probably gotten from TOT, since it was missing the same pages), said they'd send me a refund if I couldn't get the fancy version to work.  It took me a several months to ask for the refund; maybe that's why they didn't send it.

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Hey guys, been a little while, soon after having this issue I closed on a house and did the whole moving and settling in thing. So I’m back to sorting out the DR, couldn’t exactly remember where I left off so I bolted everything back up and started from square one. My battery has been on a battery tender since the move a few months ago so with it fully charged I put that back on the bike. Multi meter read 12.8, I put the key in and switched the ignition to “on” (not actually starting the bike) and did another reading which was like 7.6 or something and I could see that the lights on the bike were dimming already. Of course switching it on and trying to start the bike lead to nothing but dimmer lights. Then I pulled the bike over to the car and hooked up the jumper cables and put the key back in and it fired right up. So seems like there’s a short somewhere or something, I’m pretty illiterate when it comes to reading a multi meter, other than checking the voltage on a battery. Any suggestions on where to go from here? Specifics would be good, electrical things are not my forte.

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By change, , if you have to go back into the starter again, ,
it would probably be a good time to give that Pup a refresh.
Rebuild kits, brake clean and some fresh grease is just cheap insurance.
It is 20+yrs old after all...
Ride safe everyone. G.

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On 5/29/2018 at 4:15 AM, plugeye said:

needs a new battery

Thank you for this! I was about to attempt an overwhelming (for me) amount of electrical troubleshooting. Got my battery tested, shop said it's toast, grabbed a new one and that fixed it. That battery was pretty new so that's why I didn't consider it to be a culprit, I should know better, always start with the basics right? I got excited when the bike fired right up once I got the new battery in but that feeling quickly faded when it wouldn't shut off. The starter wouldn't disengage and I had to disconnect the battery to get the bike to shut down. Think when I put the starter in it wasn't lined up just right, couple of love taps with a rubber mallet did the trick. Should be good to roll now! *knock on wood* Thanks for your help guys!

On 5/31/2018 at 11:44 AM, PaydayGabe said:

By change, , if you have to go back into the starter again, ,
it would probably be a good time to give that Pup a refresh.
Rebuild kits, brake clean and some fresh grease is just cheap insurance.
It is 20+yrs old after all...
Ride safe everyone. G.

Good idea, I agree!

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Ok so one problem solved, another has problem has arisen... or maybe it was the original that started all this. It was running and starting good at first. Then after a few starts the starter wouldn’t disengage again and this time the only thing that would shut it down was disconnecting the battery. I disconnected the positive lead to the battery, and as soon as I touch it to the positive terminal the starter immediately fires up and starts cranking (even with the ignition off and the kill switch in the off position). So that means it’s an open circuit right? And that something (like the ignition, kill switch, starter relay, etc) isn’t closing the circuit when it’s supposed to? Again, electrical stuff is a weak point for me, obviously, so forgive my elementary level of critical thinking on this. Just want to get this thing hopping again for summer!

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the starter relay is stuck.

1st try disconnecting one of the control wires: yellow/black or white/black. if it solves the stuck problem, its not the relay.

 

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Just to be 100% sure I’m looking at the correct thing I attached a photo, this is the starter relay right? I pulled one of the wires and still having the same issue. That mean the problem is the starter relay?

05C1F872-7BDA-4BEB-A5C6-34CDFFC65971.jpeg

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