Are the RFS motors typically "noisey"?

[2 Stroke Boogie]

22 minutes ago, cobra46 said:

 

The plastic gear is only held on by an E-clip.  Sometimes, after removing the clip you have to pull a bit to get it off.

While you're in there,  I should replace your aluminum crank nut with a steel one.  You will need to rig up a puller to get the parts behind the crank nut off.  Don't forget that the crank nut has a left hand thread....RIGHTY LOOSEY on this one.

 

Fixing the egg shaped bore will be a bit of work.  I would bore the hole larger to restore it's position and roundness.  After that I would press in a bronze bushing. Metric bronze bushings are available from Mcmaster Carr.  The shop can handle this two ways. 1) Bore the hole with a very very slight press to not shrink the ID of the bronze after pressing it in. or 2) Bore the hole for a .0005-.001 press fit and then ream/machine out the bushing after pressing.  Option two is the best but means more work.

I'm a mechanical engineer and engineer stuff like this all the time.

I have the e-clip off, I just didn't want to pull too hard on the plastic gear.

I thought about putting some brass shim stock in the hole and use the starter sparingly. But, I seriously doubt that I'll ever fix it. Lol. It kick starts so easy, 

[cobra46]

5 minutes ago, Bill DeWahl said:

I have the e-clip off, I just didn't want to pull too hard on the plastic gear.

I thought about putting some brass shim stock in the hole and use the starter sparingly. But, I seriously doubt that I'll ever fix it. Lol. It kick starts so easy, 

You can pull pretty firmly without damaging the other end.  There's a pin behind the gear that may fall out when the gear comes off.  Make sure you keep an eye out for where it goes.

[2 Stroke Boogie]

8 hours ago, cobra46 said:

You can pull pretty firmly without damaging the other end.  There's a pin behind the gear that may fall out when the gear comes off.  Make sure you keep an eye out for where it goes.

Ok. I got the plastic gear off and the other one that I wanted out, but now my clutch wont pull. WTH did I do? 

I still have it apart.

[cobra46]

13 hours ago, Bill DeWahl said:

Ok. I got the plastic gear off and the other one that I wanted out, but now my clutch wont pull. WTH did I do? 

I still have it apart.

Is your clutch pressure plate and six springs still all assembled?  You should not pull the clutch if you have removed the pressure plate or slave cylinder.  Doing so can destroy the slave cylinder.  I typically write 'DO NOT PULL' on a piece of paper and tape it over my left brush guard when it's dangerous to pull the clutch.

Other than that, taking apart stuff on the right side should have no affect on the clutch lever feel.

Edited February 13, 2018 by cobra46

[2 Stroke Boogie]

So, the last oil change showed a small amount of debris on the drain plug. I think it's finally getting all of the junk out and some is just wear, me thinks. But, the last couple rides this thing has been doing that "hanging idle" thing. So, if figured the carb needs a cleaning as the bike sits sometimes for a month or 2. And, I'm not always up in the fuel stabilizer. So I cleaned the carb,or so I thought, and started it back up, but now, it's worse. It's crackling and backfiring and don't want to idle. So, I think I'm going to get one of those carb cleaning tools and do a really thorough job on the carb. I also realized that the small jet,42, has been changed to a 48. The mixture screw, according to the book, is supposed to be 1.25 turns out. So, with the bigger jet should I only turn it out like 1 or .75? And would that affect the backfiring and crackling? 

[UH1H]

Never been one to clean Jets....i just put new ones in.  Then I haven't had to tear the carb apart again.