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Anyone Riding a Stock 2018 TX300


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Just wondering if anyone has purchased a 2018 TX300 and not had to mess with jetting, or reeds?  I read almost everyday about someone purchasing this bike and the first thing they do is install a Reed Cage, Lectron, or new jetting.  I ride at sea level up to 2000' and wonder do I need to just order the parts mentioned and install before the bike is rode the first time?  Would be nice to work on a completely clean bike.

So, anyone happy with a bone stock 18' TX300?

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Traded up from 2015 Ktm 300 to 2018 TX 300, a few months back.   The TX 300 is awesome so far, and surprizingly much improved over my ktm which was awesome bike as well.

First comment - I rode the ktm "out of box" stock for 180 hours with no issues.  Lived on coast, but when moved to interior about 2- 3000 ft higher, had to change jetting a touch.

Then traded to a  Husky, and went with dealer installed recommendation/experience JD Jetting kit, set from 0 to 4000 foot altitude.  From what I understand, the kit is simple/color coded to altitude.  Cannot say what the stock setup was like, but JD is inexpensive and the bike is a rocket - runs superb from idle to full throttle.

My general rule is don't touch it or change it, until an issue identified...  I have constantly see new bikes with thousands of dollars spent on aftermarket suspension modes, Lectron carbs, and do not perform any better, arguably worse than stock.  My recommendation is to break in your bike, set it up right (sag etc), ride it for 10 to 15 hours... and then do the tweaks. 

As to Lectron my experience is they are finicky and most times when I come across a rider with one installed, they are continually adjusting/playing with it as bike not running right.

Good luck

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38 minutes ago, hammerati said:

Traded up from 2015 Ktm 300 to 2018 TX 300, a few months back.   The TX 300 is awesome so far, and surprizingly much improved over my ktm which was awesome bike as well.

First comment - I rode the ktm "out of box" stock for 180 hours with no issues.  Lived on coast, but when moved to interior about 2- 3000 ft higher, had to change jetting a touch.

Then traded to a  Husky, and went with dealer installed recommendation/experience JD Jetting kit, set from 0 to 4000 foot altitude.  From what I understand, the kit is simple/color coded to altitude.  Cannot say what the stock setup was like, but JD is inexpensive and the bike is a rocket - runs superb from idle to full throttle.

My general rule is don't touch it or change it, until an issue identified...  I have constantly see new bikes with thousands of dollars spent on aftermarket suspension modes, Lectron carbs, and do not perform any better, arguably worse than stock.  My recommendation is to break in your bike, set it up right (sag etc), ride it for 10 to 15 hours... and then do the tweaks. 

As to Lectron my experience is they are finicky and most times when I come across a rider with one installed, they are continually adjusting/playing with it as bike not running right.

Good luck

I have been riding on KTM 300’s since 2012 and have been running Lectron carbs the last few years and I would have to disagree. I ran one on my ‘13 300XC-w but not on my ‘12 300xc for comparison purposes and it’s an improvement, but not drastic like some people claim. That is not true with the new 300 motor they came out in 2017. The lectron carb for these new gen of motors is a high velocity version that does make a significant difference. I loved my 300’s before my lectron carbs but hated jetting 2-3 times a month with the racing I was doing.thats why I tried one and now I do it on all my 300 builds. The word of advise I give is not to mess it. They send them to you ready to go. So just put it on and ride it once it’s fully warmed up then adjust the idle and leave it alone.

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1 hour ago, hammerati said:

Traded up from 2015 Ktm 300 to 2018 TX 300, a few months back.   The TX 300 is awesome so far, and surprizingly much improved over my ktm which was awesome bike as well.

First comment - I rode the ktm "out of box" stock for 180 hours with no issues.  Lived on coast, but when moved to interior about 2- 3000 ft higher, had to change jetting a touch.

Then traded to a  Husky, and went with dealer installed recommendation/experience JD Jetting kit, set from 0 to 4000 foot altitude.  From what I understand, the kit is simple/color coded to altitude.  Cannot say what the stock setup was like, but JD is inexpensive and the bike is a rocket - runs superb from idle to full throttle.

My general rule is don't touch it or change it, until an issue identified...  I have constantly see new bikes with thousands of dollars spent on aftermarket suspension modes, Lectron carbs, and do not perform any better, arguably worse than stock.  My recommendation is to break in your bike, set it up right (sag etc), ride it for 10 to 15 hours... and then do the tweaks. 

As to Lectron my experience is they are finicky and most times when I come across a rider with one installed, they are continually adjusting/playing with it as bike not running right.

Good luck

Never had an issue with the Lectron on my 300 XC-W, nor anyone else I know with a Lectrons. Set it once and go. Runs beautifully. Much better gas mileage. I ride from 3k to 10k here in Montana.

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I have a 2018 300TE.  I jetted the stock carb for elevation per the manual, it ran well.  Then I swapped in a Keihin 38mm with a Quad Flow torque wing (just had one one the shelf) and a V-Force 4 reed and the difference was amazing.  The RK Tek head was another shocking improvement and lastly, the PC pipe was yet another surprising improvement.  My point is, it can and will run great with the stock hardware.  If you want more, you can have more.  It depends on your wallet. 

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I have a 2018 300TE.  I jetted the stock carb for elevation per the manual, it ran well.  Then I swapped in a Keihin 38mm with a Quad Flow torque wing (just had one one the shelf) and a V-Force 4 reed and the difference was amazing.  The RK Tek head was another shocking improvement and lastly, the PC pipe was yet another surprising improvement.  My point is, it can and will run great with the stock hardware.  If you want more, you can have more.  It depends on your wallet. 

What jetting are you running? Our wallets are pretty similar:D

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I have a 2018 TX 300 with 7 hours on it. I've not touched the carburetor and for me not to reflexively fiddle with these is nothing short of miraculous. The bike runs outstanding at sea level open desert with temps in the 70's. I might have to lean it out a little when the temps are back closer to triple digits. I would give the factory jetting an A+ and I'm not inclined to mess with it at all right now. That's not to say that at tear down a new reed cage, high compression head, etc. might happen BUT there is no need to immediately screw-up this fine running machine?

I put a 5.4 spring on it and set the clickers to "standard" front and rear. I run 9.4 bar in the air fork and race sag at 105ish. It has an FMF Turbinecore 2.1, TMD skid plate, CV4 radiator cap, and Bridgestone UHD tubes front and rear. Stock gearing is 13/50 and works well for all but the fastest two track. It'll do over 80 MPH. If I were going to race this in open desert or take it to Baja I would gear it 14/48 and put a stabilizer on it. 

Don't believe all the anti-Mikuni BS. One thing for sure is that it is picky about ratio so 60:1 is a must. It will run very good on pump gas too.

Edited by cubera
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13 hours ago, KennyMc said:


What jetting are you running? Our wallets are pretty similar:D

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IMG_1501.jpg

In the 38mm Keihin, I'm running a 160 main, a 40 pilot, and N8RH needle ('07 300 XC-W part) in the third groove.  Idle screw is about 1 turn out.  This works very well around 3000'.  If I'm riding around 5000' and up, I drop the main to a 158, I go to the N8RW needle in the second groove.  Very clean, very strong, great mileage.

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In the 38mm Keihin, I'm running a 160 main, a 40 pilot, and N8RH needle ('07 300 XC-W part) in the third groove.  Idle screw is about 1 turn out.  This works very well around 3000'.  If I'm riding around 5000' and up, I drop the main to a 158, I go to the N8RW needle in the second groove.  Very clean, very strong, great mileage.

Damn, I can’t believe a needle makes that much diff. I just threw in a JD kit and it calls for a 175 main 45 pilot.
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I appreciate all the replies...  How many of you didn't mod the air box?  Is it a necessity, or does it breathe well enough in stock version?

I've always tweaked on my bikes to get max HP, but want to ride this one awhile before I start down that road.  I want to use what little free time I have riding and not wrenching at this point.  I do have a 5.4 Spring to install along with skid & armor plates and other comfort, convenience and protection type mods to do before it gets muddy.

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I never modded my air box. at first I got the JD kit for the mikuni and it was running great! I liked how clean the air box was without holes and figured to leave it alone for the time being. just installed my 38mm airstriker with STIC metering rod, and although there was snow on the ground making a proper test difficult I would say im pretty happy with how it was running!

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
Putting my lectron on tonight , brand new outta box tx 300, the stock carb settings ran like shit, no dealer support to speak of so I will get the lectron for time economy of riding instead of working on jets. Plus I have not had a two stroke since the 70’s

So how did you make out with the lectron?
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  • 2 weeks later...

20 hours now on my 18 TX......haven't touched the carb .....riding mostly in the 3-4,000 elevation range......maybe I'm not that discerning but it seems to run fine, and that is with a 1 to 40 mix ratio.....next jug of fuel will be at the recommended 1:60.

Edited by nsrrider
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  • 2 weeks later...

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