g steezy

Noisy motor after valve job

90 posts in this topic

1 hour ago, g steezy said:

Things have got to start going my way, but today isn’t the day. First, I ordered the wrong top end gasket kit because I was unaware that my bike had been bored when I ordered it. I called Wiseco to order a head gasket only to find out you must buy the entire top end gasket kit from them. They were super nice and did the best they could to help me out.

On that note the guy who did my valves proceeded to put the wrong head gasket on the bike. He obviously didn’t realize it was bored out either.

Later I took the clutch basket off to figure out if I could how this dumbass kick start gear goes on only to find a bracket missing. So I’ll be ordering that stuff now. I feel like a totally idiot for continuing messing with this, but I’m my mind it was either be out money without a bike or be out money with a bike. Cheers to the weekend, beer, and hopes of better luck on my end. Thanks again for all the words of wisdom guys.

455C7676-5119-4E85-A21F-8ABC1E05E389.jpeg

You will need the retainer and two screws, as seen below.. as the last person to be in there had some issues, you might want to check the kick start gear stopper and make sure it was installed correctly as well, its often installed backwards and then damages the case. 

 

5a591a94bbd47_MISSINGPARTS.jpg.9033cc37af5e2028dc5cd7068485fab6.jpg

 

If a 90mm head gasket was used with a 94.5mm bore and piston ,that was at least part of the noise..

But you still need need to figure out and correct why the cam chain was rubbing the motor

 

And again, you can get just the head gasket, I posted the part number up above 

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Just now, Erik Marquez said:

5a591a94bbd47_MISSINGPARTS.jpg.9033cc37af5e2028dc5cd7068485fab6.jpg

Thank you and thank you Ohiodrz. I got those ordered, unfortunately the bushings I think I’m missing are on back order. I also ordered a kick start return spring because I can’t seem to get mine in there right and fear it messed up. At 6 bucks it’s worth it to me just to throw another one in there. I’m hoping this is it at this point. It’s goinf to be a waiting game for parts now.

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1 hour ago, Erik Marquez said:

No your not 5a591d3a7e3f2_Yourbushing31.jpg.2e0f9d9335fec42172a9a3aa1c78609c.jpg

Isn’t that number 34? I only have one bearing in my hand yet I see 2, (31 & 34) in the diagram. I ordered all of them to make sure, unfortunately both are on back order.

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Isn’t that number 34? I only have one bearing in my hand yet I see 2, (31 & 34) in the diagram. I ordered all of them to make sure, unfortunately both are on back order.

No...I could be wrong, but 34 is only used where kick gear is absent (no kicker). Then removed when kicker/gear is installed as an option.    

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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23 hours ago, g steezy said:

Isn’t that number 34? I only have one bearing in my hand yet I see 2, (31 & 34) in the diagram. I ordered all of them to make sure, unfortunately both are on back order.

No its not.

34 is a spacer used if the kick starter is not installed 

31 is present in your picture

Im sure, not guessing 

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20 minutes ago, Erik Marquez said:

No its not.

34 is a spacer used if the kick starter is not installed 

31 is present in your picture

Im not guessing 

Wasn’t trying to undermine you, just trying to understand what was and wasn’t missing. Thank you.

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New issue, just got home and my CCT showed up. What’s this noise about removing the cam chain guide, there’s no way this is correct is it?

06613CD1-7E0B-498C-8EB7-F4D0D995F219.jpeg

49B285E2-A7E3-4532-9772-6591AAD30B04.jpeg

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New issue, just got home and my CCT showed up. What’s this noise about removing the cam chain guide, there’s no way this is correct is it?
06613CD1-7E0B-498C-8EB7-F4D0D995F219.thumb.jpeg.f9bd2df9bf489053afdbe36d22b9e598.jpeg
49B285E2-A7E3-4532-9772-6591AAD30B04.jpeg.2d9a587d2cfca6262908e42ee14a5572.jpeg

They're talking about this piece on top.20180112_181043.jpg

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12 minutes ago, Diverdown said:


They're talking about this piece on top.20180112_181043.jpg

Interesting, do you know why that is? I don’t see the harm in leaving it, but I’m sure there’s a valid reason.

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Interesting, do you know why that is? I don’t see the harm in leaving it, but I’m sure there’s a valid reason.

It says in the instructions to push down on cam chain between cams...

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9 minutes ago, Diverdown said:


It says in the instructions to push down on cam chain between cams...

I did see that, but I also read a different method to setting the manual tensioner that involved setting the tensioner finger tight then starting the motor and adjust it according to sound. Just seemed to me that guard was important in case of a cam chain failure, but I also guess a cracked valve cover would be the least of your worries at that point.

Edited by g steezy

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1 hour ago, g steezy said:

Wasn’t trying to undermine you, just trying to understand what was and wasn’t missing. Thank you.

Not at all, Im multi tasking, lathe is running, carbs in sonic tank, ordering parts just wanted to make sure I got across, I was sure... not guessing or "thinking out loud"  and did not have time to write a long reply  

 

 

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43 minutes ago, g steezy said:

Interesting, do you know why that is? I don’t see the harm in leaving it, but I’m sure there’s a valid reason.

Your not leaving it off, just removing so you can check chain tension, then re installing... Go easy on the cam cap screws, they only get tightened to 7ftlb  No TQ wrench unless its a 1/4" drive  inlb and known to be calibrated... 

Or you can do it by sound, but the chain deflection check is a more visual way and easier to transmit, describe, receive/ understand for a lot of folks. 

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21 minutes ago, g steezy said:

I did see that, but I also read a different method to setting the manual tensioner that involved setting the tensioner finger tight then starting the motor and adjust it according to sound. Just seemed to me that guard was important in case of a cam chain failure, but I also guess a cracked valve cover would be the least of your worries at that point.

You do not start motor with it off, its only removed to check chain tension, then replaced before you start the motor. 

Folks over tighten the CCT doing the tension by sound.. Thinking just a  little tight, a little quiter is better, its not..

In the end, the MCCT will be louder if set correctly then the OEM ACCT, for the very reason the ACCT is being replaced,,,it puts too much pressure on the chain

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1 hour ago, Erik Marquez said:

The best Manual CCT hands down for the DRZ is the one made right here for TT https://thumpertalk.com/shop/ThumperTalk-Manual-Cam-Chain-Tensioner-p2006766344.html

 

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And the instructions that come with it are a far cry better then what came with that red one above 

I never came across that one while searching for the tensioners. If for some reason I don’t like the one I bought I’ll look into that one.

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Does the red one have an o-ring around the threads ? It would be just below the surface that the jam nut hits to lock the tensioner in place , the o-ring stops oil seepage that can make its way from the inside , especially when the threads are a rather loose fit . The Chinese copies use rather poor tolerances as with most of their imported stuff .

 

 

.

Edited by jjktmrider
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3 hours ago, g steezy said:

I never came across that one while searching for the tensioners. If for some reason I don’t like the one I bought I’ll look into that one.

I have just purchased based on this thread.  Cheers :thumbsup:

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