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Sachs Shock Goldvalve

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23 minutes ago, husabusa said:

Yes marty we did have almost the same stacks 👍

I took out all dubbel 30 28 and so on

And tryed 15 face shims

But i will try 12 face shims i think?

I have tryed xover before on my 350 and dident like it feels not conected and mushy

But maby its diffrent on a 2stroke?

I have a light bleed stack in and i did like that on my 4stroke but maby i would flipp it?

I'd leave the bleed stack it gives better clicker adjustment. Flick the crossover try 12 face shims and reset the mid to 0.35 to 0.4 and try. With you I still think a tappered mid would be better to add a bit of hold up.  There are so many changes you could make its mind blowing. Do you have any 0.15,s up the top of your comp stack? 

MM 

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Ok i took a look in my papper and

MV Comp

20.11 x 3

17.11 x 3

11.25 x 2

17.3 x 2 

 

And this is what i have now

And you think 

20

18

16

And so on is better?

Haha its funny i got my 350 suspension

To work like i want it and now

The 2stoke its so diffrent? Im chansing in the dark? But we see 😊

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I recon yes clamp the mid on a 10. You could probably get away with a couple of less face shims and a smaller clamp on the comp and try it. You just need to take a leap

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Ok i took a look in my papper and
MV Comp
20.11 x 3
17.11 x 3
11.25 x 2
17.3 x 2 
 
And this is what i have now
And you think 
20
18
16
And so on is better?
Haha its funny i got my 350 suspension
To work like i want it and now
The 2stoke its so diffrent? Im chansing in the dark? But we see


That mid is too stiff for square edges, no question it will beat the shit out of you and it will be impossible to tune the base. Mid is a hyper sensitive adjustment. Try what I noted earlier with @.4mm float. Base as I noted before also. This just plain works in the crap. No deflection, no problems.

This is not like a 4stroke, it has an active lighter feel especially in rocks and roots. You don't need all that mid to hold up under comp braking you don't have. Some guys have a hard time with this. You have to learn to trust the bike, but to do so requires adequate weight on the front wheel.

What I find very odd is your note of the bike being very tall in the rear. Fastway link inserts will not change this, the tallest option is stock height, no taller.

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Yes i know about the inserts to fastway

But i want to try lower it in rear mine is way to high

I will put on my sachs forks and take my kybs down

Is there some typical stack heghts in mid comp? Like say 2mm stack is 0.35 float and so on? I think its so hard do messure it?

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6 hours ago, husabusa said:

Yes i know about the inserts to fastway

But i want to try lower it in rear mine is way to high

I will put on my sachs forks and take my kybs down

Is there some typical stack heghts in mid comp? Like say 2mm stack is 0.35 float and so on? I think its so hard do messure it?

Measure it with a feeler gauge each side of the face shim on the mid. You can measure total stack thickness and the piston and calculate it but I feel as many other feeler gauge is better. If GP gave you his stacks in a pm start with them. @GP do you run a 2 face shim mid on the 2 banger or 3 ?

MM

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Sorry I thought I had mentioned fork stacks but it was just shock.

32x.1(10)

26x.15

32x.1

.

.

.

12x.3 (clamp)

 

(Single face shim bleed stack)

 

I'm away from my notes so no exact mid but 20x.1 (3), 11 clamp, 15x.3, 17x.3 before the cup and a .4 mm float for sure.

 

Husa, this tall rear issue is crazy. Even raised my bike is lower than a PDS bike and almost as tall as a new TX300 link Husky. Not to tall at all, balanced well with fork. Measure shock length next time it's off.

 

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Yes its very strange? I can hardley get feet down when sitting? I like beta for they are small? But next time its off i will mesure it and i will mesure my frends 2017 too and se?

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I touch toes and I'm 5'9". Rear 15mm taller and sag @ 103mm

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I forgot ta ask gp do you have 3 or 4 face shim on reb on the forks?

 

Ok then we are the same heght?

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8 hours ago, GP said:

Sorry I thought I had mentioned fork stacks but it was just shock.

32x.1(10)

26x.15

32x.1

.

.

.

12x.3 (clamp)

 

(Single face shim bleed stack)

 

I'm away from my notes so no exact mid but 20x.1 (3), 11 clamp, 15x.3, 17x.3 before the cup and a .4 mm float for sure.

 

Husa, this tall rear issue is crazy. Even raised my bike is lower than a PDS bike and almost as tall as a new TX300 link Husky. Not to tall at all, balanced well with fork. Measure shock length next time it's off.

 

Flexy flexy :)  Do you have much shim deterioration on the mid ? The link sounds like its the wrong one makes no sense. 

MM

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No mid problems. 2 stroke in rocks is a different world than a heavy 4stroke in whoops. You will hate life and go home beat to shit with a stiff mid here.

Husa I'm away from my notes but 3 reb face shims for sure. If for some reason that rear is abnormally high, it will screw up the balance and fork setup.

  • Helpful 1

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Took some messures today on the bike

If i messure the lower cleves cc from lower shock bolt to springseat

Mine 300 2014 is 90mm

And my freands 300 2017 is 81-82mm?

My freands is good i think but mine is to high? Verry strange?

When i look at beta usa support 2013-2014 cleves have the same nr and 

2015-2018 has a diffrent nr

Can you messure yours maby gp?

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Posted (edited)

I have a spare '13 shock apart. Clevis length from rocker mount center to edge of shoulder is 90mm. Total eye to eye centers is 490mm (+|- 1 mm error). This is stock length with clevis seated on shaft shoulder, no shimming. If yours is same the answer is likely the link guard. Marty had a good point, is it a Beta part or other made to fit? Rocker also, measure that if shock not the answer.

Here are pics of my bike, static height on stand with home brew sag tool. Notice approx position and 660mm from axel center. Yours should be about 15mm less, certainly no more.

EDIT:  Sorry, 660 is meant as a reference not absolute, as the pin for the axel in the meter stick is centered about 21mm.  So, actual height would be approx 639mm.

IMG_1534102534.115120.jpgIMG_1534102546.213887.jpg

Edited by GP

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Thank you gp for the help

My bike is correct 👍 and my link is right 

Strange that feel its to high in rear and you dont? I will try a 5.6 spring and see

And relly strange that newer betas are lower in rear? I have changed the setting in kyb now and will try it this wekend

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Don't go by feel, measure the bikes and compare the numbers.   I doubt the new bikes are lower, that would be a big step backwards, they should be making them taller.  Use the correct spring, if 5.8 gives you good numbers stay with it.  I think my bike feels perfectly balanced with the rear up +15mm, not tall.  With the 5.8 spring and good valving, it rides proper and stays up in the stroke, perhaps you feel this dynamic ride height and are comparing it to a bike that is too soft.   IMO the Beta spring chart is too soft.   Get the setup fairly close first and then lengthen the shock, I guarantee you will like it.  

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Hi again

Thanks for the inpot on the forks gp and marty they are now great 🤘

And know i have 5.6 rear and 4.7 front and the bike feels good

But i dont like rebound in rear

And i thinking i most have harder stack to the goldvalve vs std piston? 

The gv flows more oil than the std so i need a harder stack is this correct?

I build a rebound stack for my freands 300 in jan this year and when i checkt my notes i really stiff comperad to mine

 

Am i thinking right?

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5 hours ago, husabusa said:

Hi again

Thanks for the inpot on the forks gp and marty they are now great 🤘

And know i have 5.6 rear and 4.7 front and the bike feels good

But i dont like rebound in rear

And i thinking i most have harder stack to the goldvalve vs std piston? 

The gv flows more oil than the std so i need a harder stack is this correct?

I build a rebound stack for my freands 300 in jan this year and when i checkt my notes i really stiff comperad to mine

 

Am i thinking right?

I think your correct if it has a larger port area.  Have you tried GP's stack ? You may have to go a bit lighter than him as his spring is frimer and he runs his clicker out a long way.  Interesting the 18's std rebound stack is a way stiffer then the earlier models.  Your running the same springs as me on my 350 :)

MM 

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18 hours ago, husabusa said:

Hi again

Thanks for the inpot on the forks gp and marty they are now great 🤘

And know i have 5.6 rear and 4.7 front and the bike feels good

But i dont like rebound in rear

And i thinking i most have harder stack to the goldvalve vs std piston? 

The gv flows more oil than the std so i need a harder stack is this correct?

I build a rebound stack for my freands 300 in jan this year and when i checkt my notes i really stiff comperad to mine

 

Am i thinking right?

Yes, the GV flows a lot more, and requires a stiffer stack for the same damping as the stock piston, but does not impose any limitations.   Your springs seem a little backwards in balance to me but there are tolerances, that in some cases can exceed one rate change.  What is the rear spring installed preload?  What exactly don't you like about the rebound and in what type of terrain / hit, what stacks do you currently have, and have you tried what I suggested?  I know what I have works, it does not kick and tracks well, best setup I have ever ridden where I ride.  It can be done.

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9mm preload on the spring

Rebound is good in slowspeed

But it starts kicking in the faster stuff

I will post upp my stack when im in the garage next time 

But i think its close to yours glenn

And the same on comp but i have 10 faceshims instead off your 6

I will try 8 next time

 

I having a hard time to get youse to the 2stroke but its getting better 👍

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