Which oil should I run?

[Confederate]

[Doogee57]

  Hey Chuck, did you switch to the Motul? And, if so, your observations?

[Chuck.]

Yes I did but I'm now back to Redline, but next oil change I'll go back to the 300V. I liked the clutch action better with the Redline but the testing in the link shows Motul 300v is better. And I do have a Megacycle cam, and they are very specific on assembly oil and lube oil.  
You can buy 4L of 300V for $66 on Amazon.    

[Piney Woods]

On 1/15/2018 at 2:45 PM, VortecCPI said:

No idea what this means.  How about a complete sentence?

I have it in my notes Frank Nye recommends Chevron Delo 400.

Thought you were making fun of the enviro--global warming nut. Figured he hated any fossil fuel use. Maybe I'm getting names mixed up.

[Piney Woods]

On 1/16/2018 at 1:12 PM, VortecCPI said:

Al Baker's builders told us to check/set valve lash and change oil every 200 miles OR after every race event.

The old XR265R is still running to his day and I still change my Shell Rotella T6 every 200 miles.

The quality of oils today are far superior. Many of my clients were engineers and techs at Texaco's no 1 research lab. Their thoughts were that 90% of oil is wasted due to early draining especially regarding motorcycles.

Edited January 20, 2018 by YHGEORGE

[Doogee57]

   Hey Chuck , I've read here at T-talk that you're running one of those cylinder head temp gauges. It would be interesting to know if you've seen (or will see) a difference when running the Motul oil. And I'm curious on your thoughts of running it during break-in on a full re-build including a newly bored cylinder. I know this is a lot of questions but I'm seriously considering switching to the Motul in 10/40. I'm currently running Mobil 1 V-Twin in 20/50 and am pretty happy with it. Also, and going to a 10/40 since it seems that the slightly lighter weights are reported to run slightly cooler.

[Chuck.]

13 hours ago, Doogee57 said:

   Hey Chuck , I've read here at T-talk that you're running one of those cylinder head temp gauges. It would be interesting to know if you've seen (or will see) a difference when running the Motul oil. And I'm curious on your thoughts of running it during break-in on a full re-build including a newly bored cylinder. I know this is a lot of questions but I'm seriously considering switching to the Motul in 10/40. I'm currently running Mobil 1 V-Twin in 20/50 and am pretty happy with it. Also, and going to a 10/40 since it seems that the slightly lighter weights are reported to run slightly cooler.

So many variable between rides, engine builds, etc,  that any noticed temp differences wouldn't be valid.

I had a Vapor on the bike for several years so I was familiar with cylinder head temps during my typical rides with the  stock and Powroll engines. During breakin of the original Powroll build cylinder head temps steadily declined during breakin.  One thing that has surprised me with the XR200 engines is the lower than expected oil temperatures, they seem to settle in the low to mid 200F range. I don't check while riding, but when stopped I'll glance down at the dip stick thermometer. 

I have observed cylinder head temps as high as 420F during long climbs in the mountains on a hot day. From dyno work I know bad things begin to happen to air cooled engines when the temp goes above 400F, but that is WOT and not at lighter loads like trail riding.

[VortecCPI]

My CRF230 head temp will get pretty hot (350-400) when going is slow and there is a lot of load on the engine or if I am pulling a high gear for a long time under a lot of load.  A quick downshift or a short run to get air over the fins brings head temp back down very quickly.  Unlike an air-cooled street bike engine we often have very little air moving across our heads and THAT is the problem.  Just imagine how much heat is being removed from a CRF230L going down a flat road at 45 MPH compared to our CRF230s climbing tough trails at 5-10 MPH.  There is simply no comparison between these two conditions.

The head temp and oil tank temps are so low on my old SRX600 that you can lay your hand on either and while both are hot neither is so hot it will burn you.  In fact, the oil tank temperature is so low I often wonder if my oil is getting much hotter than 212, which would not be very good.  I guess that is one of the advantages of a mild 8.5:1 CR engine.

[Chuck.]

23 hours ago, YHGEORGE said:

Thought you were making fun of the enviro--global warming nut. Figured he hated any fossil fuel use. Maybe I'm getting names mixed up.

Bill Nye "The Science Guy" is a buffoon who wear bow ties like the clown he is, Frank Nye is the engine guy.  ?

[Doogee57]

   Any of you guys run your temp gauge on a head with extended (welded) fins. Be nice to know if it truly helps. I know the Honda TLR250 (same platform as ours) trials bike had some mighty big fins. Trials seems like high load/low speed in the extreme.

[Oil Baron]

10 hours ago, Chuck. said:

Bill Nye "The Science Guy" is a buffoon who wear bow ties like the clown he is, Frank Nye is the engine guy.  ?

Yeah, but he can make more money being a bow-tie-wearing buffoon.

[jeffrow68]

Thanks for posting the article, it was very informative. I opted for the Mobil1 0W40 since it was readily available and only $4/qt ($22/5qt jug). I like the higher thermal breakdown temp of the Mobil1 and since I see these engine temps regularly I change oil every other ride. I would like to try the Amsoil also, but have not got around to ordering any yet. Very good read for sure.

[Chuck.]

14 hours ago, jeffrow68 said:

Thanks for posting the article, it was very informative. I opted for the Mobil1 0W40 since it was readily available and only $4/qt ($22/5qt jug). I like the higher thermal breakdown temp of the Mobil1 and since I see these engine temps regularly I change oil every other ride. I would like to try the Amsoil also, but have not got around to ordering any yet. Very good read for sure.

I've had two clutch problems using car oil in an XR and a CRF250X.
Any clutch problems with the Mobil1 0W-40?

There are many Mobil 1 oils so is your choice a MC oil?

[jeffrow68]

I just bought a jug of the mobil1 so haven’t tried it yet. I will give it a test and let you know if there are issues.

[gspartsguy]

I have a 2015 Honda CRF-230F. I just bought it used but it was only rode twice in a field by the owners wife. She did not like riding, so it sat in his garage for 2 years. He had it on a battery tender and started it up every few weeks and it has only had non ethanol gas in it since new. I really scored buying this like new bike and saved $2,000.00 instead of buying a new 2017 Honda CRF-230F model. I changed the oil in it right away. I used the Honda GN-4 10W40 oil. It runs and shifts fine, it is a Honda. After I break it in some more then I will run probably use Maxima synthetic oil for 4-Stroke wet clutch engines. I have used Maxima products since the 80's with no problems at all. Maxima is good stuff. I have seen motorcycle oil in Walmart for cheap. But I prefer Maxima oil and I always change it often. The best oil is clean oil. It is really just personal preference, just make sure you use a good quality motorcycle wet clutch oil. I worked in the motorcycle industry for over 30+ years and I am now retired.

[jeffrow68]

On 1/23/2018 at 9:48 AM, Chuck. said:

I've had two clutch problems using car oil in an XR and a CRF250X.
Any clutch problems with the Mobil1 0W-40?

There are many Mobil 1 oils so is your choice a MC oil?

Chuck, I tried the Mobil1 0W40 this weekend and I did not like it. I had an issue with hitting neutral while downshifting from second to first, it happened every time I downshifted. Also, it felt as if the clutch was slipping some on hard pulls in fourth and fifth gears. I bit the bullet and switched to Motul 300V 4T 10W40 and I tested it today with none of the issues listed above. $22/qt is serious money for oil. Ouch!  I see other versions of Motul 300V on Amazon for $30/2 liters which is acceptable, however it does not specify 4T which I think is important.  Are these other versions of 300V acceptable or should I only use 4T?

[Chuck.]

As far as I know all of the 300V oils are the same, I buy 4 litre jugs on Amazon.

Redline MC is also good and my local speed shop can get it in the next day.

[SteveThe Snakes]

Boys I've been very successfully running 15/50 Mobil 1 car oil in every dirt bike I’ve owned for 20 + years. Not sure if there is a difference from a zero weight oil. But most of the bikes are very built producing way more power than what they came with. Even the Hayabusa I owned the clutch didn’t slip.  

[jeffrow68]

I did pick up a bottle of Mobil1 10W40 4T since it was only $10. I will try it next and see how it works but I think it should be fine, and half the price of the Motul.

[VortecCPI]

11 hours ago, stevethe said:

Boys I've been very successfully running 15/50 Mobil 1 car oil in every dirt bike I’ve owned for 20 + years. Not sure if there is a difference from a zero weight oil. But most of the bikes are very built producing way more power than what they came with. Even the Hayabusa I owned the clutch didn’t slip.  

Wow.  Very interesting and thank yo for sharing Steve.