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First race on '18 XC 300

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Lol if by heat cycles you mean warm it up at the truck for a minute then hit the trails, then yeah haha. I know the engines are ran wide open through every gear after they are built at the factory, I figure that should have broke it in good enough.

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Lol if by heat cycles you mean warm it up at the truck for a minute then hit the trails, then yeah haha. I know the engines are ran wide open through every gear after they are built at the factory, I figure that should have broke it in good enough.

I have heard they do that at the factory but never read it or been confirmed by a reliable source.
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I have heard they do that at the factory but never read it or been confirmed by a reliable source.

I think it's a pretty standard practice by any manufacturer, gotta make sure it runs right lol.
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4 minutes ago, Jetster220 said:

I think it's a pretty standard practice by any manufacturer, gotta make sure it runs right lol.

I don't think it's QC...I think it's to break them in properly and consistently so that they aren't relying on the owner to do it right.

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On 3/5/2018 at 10:09 PM, Jetster220 said:


I absolutely love it, I think it handles better then the orange bikes I've ridden, the chassis has a lighter more nimble feel to it. The power is great, there's more then I ever need, in stock trim the power for me was kind of abrupt and to much hit in the mid range, but with a change in needle in the carb, adjusting the power valve and putting on a FMF gnarly, it's electric smooth and I can lug it down low or rev it out without it wanting to pull my arms off.

Did you end up using a Suzuki needle or something else?

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4 hours ago, Workerbee33 said:

I used a Suzuki needle and changed the slide and definitely improved the bike

thanks for the info. I pick up an XC 300 Friday. 

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25 minutes ago, THUMPERRIDER1 said:

thanks for the info. I pick up an XC 300 Friday. 

Not sure about your elevation but I rode mine stock jetting, needle and slide for 2 tanks with bike being really rich and then adjusted everything. Mine is riding spot on now. Hope you enjoy it as much as I do. 

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19 hours ago, Workerbee33 said:

Not sure about your elevation but I rode mine stock jetting, needle and slide for 2 tanks with bike being really rich and then adjusted everything. Mine is riding spot on now. Hope you enjoy it as much as I do. 

I'm sea level on east coast in VA. Going to try the NECJ suzuki needle and also the N3CH and N3CJ.

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36 or 38mm carb? J dia is way lean for this time of year even with a 36mm carb on a 300, would be my choice for summer.  You need several dias. and 1/2 clip variants to tune with.  Those needles work great in every 250/300 I've jetted from newer Betas to old Italian Huskys with Keihin carbs. 

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36 or 38mm carb? J dia is way lean for this time of year even with a 36mm carb on a 300, would be my choice for summer.  You need several dias. and 1/2 clip variants to tune with.  Those needles work great in every 250/300 I've jetted from newer Betas to old Italian Huskys with Keihin carbs. 
Thats my needle of choice for 8k' and higher, otherwise too lean for me.

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12 minutes ago, motocrotts said:
On 4/11/2018 at 10:35 AM, GP said:
36 or 38mm carb? J dia is way lean for this time of year even with a 36mm carb on a 300, would be my choice for summer.  You need several dias. and 1/2 clip variants to tune with.  Those needles work great in every 250/300 I've jetted from newer Betas to old Italian Huskys with Keihin carbs. 

Thats my needle of choice for 8k' and higher, otherwise too lean for me.

I have the entire family from F to K dia in C and D length increments.  I jetted a bunch of different bikes at sea level to 1K' but wide temp ranges, never had to give up and go to another family with these.  If you feel your lean with the 300 Beta at low altitude try NECW / NEDW  #3.  NECW was my spring/fall needle in the 300.

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On 3/5/2018 at 7:29 PM, redrider144 said:

I don't think it's QC...I think it's to break them in properly and consistently so that they aren't relying on the owner to do it right.

It is for QC, at KTM

Typically the motor is run through all the gears twice, at UP to full throttle, then down to HALF THOTTLE, and that is it. 

They are NOT dyno tuned, or Dyno tested for power.There is NO manufactuer who seats the rings, or 'runs the motor wide open'  in their respective factory.


Seating of the rings requires getting the piston and cylinder to as close to the same temp a possible (gentle warm up) then adding short amounts of HEAVY LOAD under throttle AND under deceleration. This does not mean 'full throttle', it means full LOAD; enough load on the engine on a steep incline, for example, that would require more throttle to accelerate up that incline. ....and it only takes a few minutes.

The rings are the only part of a modern dirt bike that comes 'un-annealed' from the factory. All other parts are ready for full load, in theory.

Edited by THE KRAN

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48 minutes ago, THE KRAN said:

It is for QC, at KTM

Typically the motor is run through all the gears twice, at UP to full throttle, then down to HALF THOTTLE, and that is it. 

They are NOT dyno tuned, or Dyno tested for power.There is NO manufactuer who seats the rings, or 'runs the motor wide open'  in their respective factory.


Seating of the rings requires getting the piston and cylinder to as close to the same temp a possible (gentle warm up) then adding short amounts of HEAVY LOAD under throttle AND under deceleration. This does not mean 'full throttle', it means full LOAD; enough load on the engine on a steep incline, for example, that would require more throttle to accelerate up that incline. ....and it only takes a few minutes.

The rings are the only part of a modern dirt bike that comes 'un-annealed' from the factory. All other parts are ready for full load, in theory.

https://blog.ktm.com/a-visit-to-the-ktm-engine-plant-2/

At KTM each motor is tested on the dyno. For the four-strokes, this procedure consists of two parts. After it has been mounted on the dyno each engine is turned without ignition by an electric motor (which is integrated in the test rig) via the output shaft. This serves to check if oil pressure is generated sufficiently and that water circulation works ok. If this is the case, the engine is started on its own for the very first time. This run lasts about two minutes and incorporates a predetermined testing procedure at different engine speeds. At the same time, a check for any leaks or unusual noises is done also the gearbox is tested for smooth operation.

It is partly for QC.  I never said it was dyno tuned, not sure where you got that from.  But the rings are beginning to seat regardless whether you want them to or not.  And they're definitely putting a load on the engine, they aren't just running it through the gears.

You can see them load this LC8 at the 4:10 mark:

 

 

 

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I would find it hard to believe they do every engine like this.  The tester would run out of his green rubber bands.  Can't believe they didn't have orange rubber bands on their equipment.

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