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DRZ 400SM 2006 - Lowering

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I missed the line up when height was being handed out, so I’m in the middle of lowering my DRZ 400, using adjustable “Soupys performance.com” I’ve set the rear down by 100mm / 4” , has any one gone this low? If so, How do you think the bike feels now for cornering? I’m taking a pause before I cut the fork springs, all feed back will be appreciated. Cheers 

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I missed the line up when height was being handed out, so I’m in the middle of lowering my DRZ 400, using adjustable “Soupys performance.com” I’ve set the rear down by 100mm / 4” , has any one gone this low? If so, How do you think the bike feels now for cornering? I’m taking a pause before I cut the fork springs, all feed back will be appreciated. Cheers 

I used a 1" lowering link on my drz400e and for that amount of lowering on the rear I had to pull the forks up through the clamps an extra 5mm, I used vernier calipers and a steel rule to do the measuring as there isn't a lot of room, this formula was given to me by the lads from lust racing in pontefract West Yorkshire in the U.K. So I guess for you doing a four inch lower from factory setting on the rear it would stand to reason that you'll have to pull your forks up 20mm from the factory setting, I have never heard of anyone lowering by this much so please in the interest of all bikers world wide being kindred spirits and for the sake of safe motorcycling, call a suspension specialist for the best way to tackle what your planning, I've also never heard of anyone charging for free advice.

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4" is a lot, I did 2" lowering link, and thought that was max for lowering with just a link. With the 2" the rear is softer so bottoming is possible. I also shaved my seat, and raised forks. I've read and watched some videos that when lowered, chain can cause damage if not adjusted properly. Chain cuts through swingarm chain "guide" into swingarm. And chain "arc" can hit anti freeze over flow tank and damage it.
While I'd like a little lower but don't want to go with SM wheels. And can't afford internally lowering. I'm good with wrenching, and could do it myself. But I lack patience, and would get ahead of myself.
Perhaps you could do a step by step when you do your forks.
Keep posting interested in your final results.

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On 1/28/2018 at 1:29 AM, Barry John Harvey said:

I missed the line up when height was being handed out, so I’m in the middle of lowering my DRZ 400, using adjustable “Soupys performance.com” I’ve set the rear down by 100mm / 4” , has any one gone this low? If so, How do you think the bike feels now for cornering? I’m taking a pause before I cut the fork springs, all feed back will be appreciated. Cheers 

I've lowed only 1 DRZ THAT far, and while it was needed for that rider, I would never want to ride her bike again, and I wont lower any more that far as I dont feel its safe for most riders.
If you really need 4 inches lower, Id do it with a combination of seat mods and internally lowering the forks and shock.. Lowing seat hight with links four inches, makes it all but impossible to install a spring that will work correctly and you have significantly altered the linkage geometry.
Lowing the front forks 4 " internally is likewise a tough deal..it leaves you not a lot of travel...and it puts the frame / pegs very low to the ground
As its an SM, you can get away with it, as long as your a road going SM rider and not trying to take it off road or a SM track that has an old school SM mix of road and dirt , jumps and corners, whoops and straight aways 

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4 hours ago, Erik Marquez said:

I've lowed only 1 DRZ THAT far, and while it was needed for that rider, I would never want to ride her bike again, and I wont lower any more that far as I dont feel its safe for most riders.
If you really need 4 inches lower, Id so it with a combination of seat mods and internally lowering the forks and shock.. Lowing seat hight with links four inches, makes it all but impossible to install a spring that will work correctly and you have significantly altered the linkage geometry.
Lowing the front forks 4 " internally is likewise a tough deal..it leaves you not a lot of travel...and it puts the frame / pegs very low to the ground
As its an SM, you can get away with it, as long as your a road going SM rider and not trying to take it off road or a SM track that has an old school SM mix of road and dirt , jumps and corners, whoops and straight aways 

Thanks Erik, I had thoughts along those lines too, with soupys brand of links I can only get another half inch of height of adjustment left in it. Would you think that with that much more restriction on the spring that the rebound is firmer ?     

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53 minutes ago, Barry John Harvey said:

Thanks Erik, I had thoughts along those lines too, with soupys brand of links I can only get another half inch of height of adjustment left in it. Would you think that with that much more restriction on the spring that the rebound is firmer ?     

Generally. lowering links cause more leverage, and thus "soften" the spring. So with lowing links its common to need a stiffer spring just to get back to where the spring weight capability was before the links.  

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had to lower the 450x 1" because of almost tipping over at stoplights. really with the 17s that made it close to original levelness.

only use it for hoolimuting anyway.

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lowered my drz 400 1.5 inches now need an adjustable kickstand. I looked a bit but saw a couple that were over 200 bucks. thats crazy. anyone got one that works for a decent price?

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lowered my drz 400 1.5 inches now need an adjustable kickstand. I looked a bit but saw a couple that were over 200 bucks. thats crazy. anyone got one that works for a decent price?
I lowered mine 2". But like that the bike isn't leaning way over with stock kickstand. I just can't use it getting on or off. Still deciding how much or what to do. Prices in eBay for a kickstand seem high.

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Put your left foot on the foot peg and then swing your right leg over. Fire the bike, lean to right leg, and put up the kick stand. This is how my uncle does it and has no problems. Just tiptoes or one foot at lights.

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I lowered mine internally, 1.5" on the front and .75 in the rear, overall about an inch and a half drop.  It is pretty significant, and the re-valved suspension rocks.

IMG_0298.JPG

20171120_161929.jpg

Here is how far the front was dropped

IMG_1020.JPG

 

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The 4” was produced by the adjustable linkage I bought online made by Soupy’s performance, it wasn’t my intention to aim for that low, and I wasn’t aware of how much it was going to drop by until I fitted them. When fitting them I realised the 4” drop was about the highest I could get out of them, so I I bought a different set of lowering links, 40mm. I’ve had the fork lowered internally by 35mm, along with new seals and revalving, took it out for a quick test ride before going on holidays. It handled ok, rebound on front was a bit hard / too quick, and rear is way to soft, felt as if it bogged down. When I get back I’ll play with clicks on front and search for a firmer rear spring, a quick search so far looks like there is only 5.4 & 5.6 availability’s ? Next mod will be the 3x3 & resetting, btw I’m from Brisbane, Northside.

cheers

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On 3/18/2018 at 10:41 PM, TLRDoug said:

It is pretty significant, and the re-valved suspension rocks.

 

Do you happen to have details of the revalve? My E has been converted to 100% street use. The forks and shock have been lowered 2" with internal spacers, but I still need to revalve for street use.

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Put your left foot on the foot peg and then swing your right leg over. Fire the bike, lean to right leg, and put up the kick stand. This is how my uncle does it and has no problems. Just tiptoes or one foot at lights.

I’ve been doing that for too long, my hip was getting sore, lowering it gives me an excuse to fiddle with the bike
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I lowered mine 2". But like that the bike isn't leaning way over with stock kickstand. I just can't use it getting on or off. Still deciding how much or what to do. Prices in eBay for a kickstand seem high.

I lowered mine by 40mm , I cut the stand back by 25mm, leans over enough not as much as if standard.

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6 hours ago, Gary in NJ said:

Do you happen to have details of the revalve? My E has been converted to 100% street use. The forks and shock have been lowered 2" with internal spacers, but I still need to revalve for street use.

Not exact details but my suspension guy installed Race Tech gold valves

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2 minutes ago, TLRDoug said:

Not exact details but my suspension guy installed Race Tech gold valves

I'm thinking of doing the same as it gets you access to the RaceTech database and tech support. 

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You can contact onroad/offroad suspension in Austin, Texas and ask for Roger, he can tell you how he valved them.  Realize I have Showa Twin Chamber forks so they differ from the S and E models.

 

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