By Brock granberg
My Yz250f has had shifting trouble for a few months and has trouble finding neutral while the bike is running. I enjoy wheelies on the bike which wears down my clutch and when I’m stopped the bike still wants to creep forward like the clutch isn’t being activated completely. I have adjusted the clutch cable with the big knob at the top of the cable on the handle bars but it either won’t activate all the way when I let it all the way out or I adjust it and it wont activate when I pull it all the way in so I was hoping there was another way to adjust the clutch on the bike and I was hoping the shifting problem is just being caused by the clutch not activating completely. Please help! Thankyou!
By Sam W.
Hey all, I just bought a street legal 2005 WR250F. Took it out once three weeks ago. Did about 60 miles on the dirt and 15 on the road, bike ran great. I took it out this past Sunday and was about 75 miles into my ride when the battery died. The battery is cheap, but it is brand new and was on a battery maintainer the whole time while it sat in the garage. I kick started it, and it fired right up. I was on the road for about 5-10 miles in fifth gear when I felt the bike slow down a little bit, and I noticed the sound coming from the bike sounded a bit deeper than usual. About a half mile later the bike started to bog down like it was out of gas. I filled the tank back up and experienced the same problem. The bike began to bog down, then puttered out like it was out of gas. Eventually the battery completely died and I was not even able to kick start it. I trailored it home, hooked it up to the maintainer, waited a couple hours, and the bike fired right up with the electric starter and the choke out. However, it was still puttering a lot when it was idling at this time. If anyone knows whats up, I would appreciate any and all help. Thank you. #Yamaha#wr250f
I've recently purchased a 2003 WR250F, and have completed the Grey wire mod without really noticing any real difference, apart from slightly more top end snap. This may be because the gearing is totally inadequate. Its got a 13 tooth front sprocket with a 48 tooth rear sprocket. The gearing is understandably far too tall. I frequently ride technical, tight sections through forrest and the occasional moto-cross track.
On the really tight sections, I often find 1st too low and 2nd too high, similarly, sometimes 2nd is too low and 3rd too high. The bike's current top speed in a straight line is 155km/h (96 mph) , which is evidently too fast (not bad for supermotard though!!). Ideally (and if at all possible), I'd like the bike to be really "snappy" and pull wheelies in 1st, 2nd and 3rd without slipping the clutch, giving me good available power when needed.
Before I splash out on a new chain and sprockets I would like to make sure I'm on the right ratio for the terrain I ride.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
By Soul Man
We’re all sick of the repetitive posts asking this question, can someone make this a sticky?
Check www.thumperfaq.com for great information, especially on how to “YZ a WR” etc.
WR more suited for trails and YZ more suited for track. You can modify either bike to make it more like the other. If you only ride tracks it is a no-brainer to get the YZ. For trail riding a lot of folks prefer the light weight of the YZ, but there are a lot of differences besides just the weight.
Here’s the differences, make up your own mind.
YZ is 29.3 lbs lighter, as of 2007: more maneuverable, quicker acceleration. That means the WR is 14% heavier than the YZ.
Heavier flywheel: slower acceleration, but less likely to stall in tight/technical sections. Many YZ riders put on heavier flywheel or Rekluse clutch for trail/technical riding to compensate.
Suspension: set up more for trail riding, not as stiff as YZ. Not as good on track for jumping as YZ, but YZ suspension may be too stiff on trails. Either one will do the other job OK, but are set up to be best at what they are made for.
Overflow for radiator: Saves rad fluid if you overheat on slow/technical trails. Radiators themselves are same size (same part # for ’05 models at any rate). On YZ the fluid will be dumped on the ground and lost if you overheat. Overheating not much of an issue on tracks.
18” Rear wheel: thicker rubber for better shock absorption on rocks/roots, less likely to get pinch flats (YZ has 19” rim, but same outer diameter of tire). Somewhat heavier which would slow down acceleration (similar to heavy flywheel). I think it would also give a bigger contact patch if you are running low air pressure in sand etc. (more flex in the tire).
Motor: WR is detuned in stock form, but basically identical once you do the free mods. The cam timing on the YZ is a little different (different part #’s for YZ v. WR exhaust cam as of 2005). Supposedly it is intentional on the WR to make the motor “hit” a little less hard so you are less likely to break traction when you don’t want to (same with the grey wire in the “free mods”
Exhaust: WR comes with more restrictive exhaust to make it quieter. Can be uncorked (see free mods) or replaced with a YZ can for more power. YZ exhaust does not have spark arrestor and is ILLEGAL on most national forest land, so a YZ would need a new exhaust or spark arrestor insert for trail riding.
E-START: Man this is huge. If you stall out on some crazy hill climb or in a precarious position, the e-start is a god-send. 4-strokes harder to re-start after you drop them (which you’re more likely to do on trails) and the e-start is really, really, really nice. Has a kick start as a back-up.
Lights: Can ride at night/dusk, either intentionally or if something happens and your ride runs longer than expected. In some states you can get it plated for dual sport (street legal).
Wide Ratio Tranny: Lower 1st gear, so less likely to stall it out in tough, technical sections. Higher 5th gear, faster top speed. Some say the WR is almost 20mph faster than the YZ at max speed.
Bigger fuel tank: 1.8 gal for YZ v. 2.1 gal for WR. Gives longer range (16% more fuel).
Aluminum frame: If looking for a used one, the YZ’s went aluminum in ’06 but you need to get an ’07 WR for the Al frame.
Green sticker: If you live in CA, the WR is a green sticker bike (for most years, anyway) and YZ is not. Check the details on this as I don’t live in CA... [EDIT]: sounds like the '03, '04 and '05 WR's are red sticker
Did I forget anything?