Jump to content

Question's and a Hand

Recommended Posts

Sir's, Thank you for letting me be part of this Forum, I'm fairly new to Forums (Newbie) my interests in this Forum are mostly questions of Repair, Maintance and Rebuilding (restoration but not too old)... I currently have a 1986 Honda CR250R, that I'm trying to rebuild too better than Stock tolerances (Meaning Some Hi performance Parts). My interest's with this Forum is like the Title says "Questions and a Hand"... This Forum is the only place I have to turn to ask questions and seek your knowledge and advice. Also I think my information would be of interest to others. If I Post I certainly will include Photo's of my work with my Machine. I'll start with a Photo of my 86 CR250R Frame everything stripped ready for re-build. I've just about read the Manual, and have had experience on other Machines (Car's and other Motocross Bikes). Thank you Sirs, and I hope you except me.....   

Tha Start....JPG

  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome to TT. Lots of fellas here willing to help you out. You may want to develop a thick skin though. Let BS go in one ear and out the other, but absorb the knowledge. first tip... don't use spray paint on that frame.. It will weaken the welds;)....good luck with the build.  

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sir, Thank you for the reply, it sure was quick. No spray the Frame, Powder coat ( not even PJ1 Frame Paint ). Gee's I don't know where to begin. There's so much I need to Talk about. At this time I'm not Painting too cold up North here. No Booth. Mostly Engine work, indoors. I'll start with one problem, Oil Drain Plug Stripped (I bought the Bike this way, long story) I have thought of a Replacement (self-tapping [Oil-Tite] Bolt) or to Re TAP it, or to just create a "New" Hole and TAP it. I'll send a Photo of the area. Hoping you can see my dilemma. Sir Thank you. Signed XCZ 

Bolt almot works.....JPG

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sirs thank you again. I'll Weld it up preferably TIG, Re Drill and Tap a new M12 x 1,50mm Bolt. It will work. Another question. As you've seen I've Split the Cases. The Manual says do not Torch the Bearings (Use the Oven Method) I cant do this. If I'm careful can I use the heat and Ice method with the Bearings. Or NO. Dilemma. This is a toughie. Thank you.  

IMG_8541.JPG

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome to the forum!

If you have access to a press, just press it out or use a bearing puller as the manual recommends. Be sure to use factory crank bearings for the rebuild.

Edited by Pygmy Warrior
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sir's Yes I do have access to a Hydraulic Press, but wouldn't that Crack the Cases (if not done properly) and the Install, done the same way. I'll have to read that Part of the Manual again. Another question: If the Transmission Bearings are in great condition, spin freely and have no Play, Do they need to be removed and replaced. The  same way Pressed or sweat. Again thank you for the reply's....

Replace Bearings.JPG

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wouldn't use a hydraulic press.  Too much risk for damage, as you said. Do you have access to an arbor press?  If the transmission bearings are good, no need to remove or replace.  I found on my 88 CR250 rebuild that most of the transmission bearing came out easily.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The mid-'80s is a nice era of bikes (my first was a 1986 CR125R)

 

Depending if you either decide to restore it for display purposes or actually ride it ,

you may consider updating it with a few custom fitted late model parts like:

 

-front / rear disc brakes

-low slung exhaust pipe and period correct shorty silencer

-19" rear wheel

-inverted forks

 

All common features today that were rare exotic factory 'Works Bikes' items only the top racers had back then.

Edited by mlatour
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can make a makeshift press by using a short length of pipe that is larger than the O.D. of the bearing and a threaded rod with a large washer on each end to press it out, and back in. Like this.

Press.JPG

Edited by Pygmy Warrior
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sir's Do you mean a Ball Joint Tool with Cup's, like the make shift one above. BUT why can't I just use the Heat and Ice method. It should just slide (or fall) right out...

Simple Ball Joint Set.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
19 minutes ago, XCZ 11xxxAB said:

Sir's Do you mean a Ball Joint Tool with Cup's, like the make shift one above. BUT why can't I just use the Heat and Ice method. It should just slide (or fall) right out...

Simple Ball Joint Set.jpg

You can do that.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sir's Is that a go-ahead on the Heat and Ice Method, I've been using a Pencil Torch since I was young. It's a simple procedure. Another question: When I removed my Lifter Rod (Pushrod) after Separating the cases, I found it was Grooved as such. It was preventing the Clutch from operating. What could have caused this ?? Thank you your the only ones that can give me a straight answer. 

Best Photo Of Groove in Lifter Rod..JPG

Edited by XCZ 11xxxAB
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There is a washer on the end with the #10 clutch lifter piece.  Maybe the nut was loose. Did it have the #24 steel ball?   See figure below. 

CLUTCH.JPG

Edited by Pygmy Warrior
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello again Sir, I had the Lifter and Steel Ball intact #10 and #24 when I disassembled the CR. BUT could not get the Lifter Rod (#12) / (a.k.a. Pushrod) to come out of the Main Shaft. This Photo is of the Left side where the Lifter Lever (#9) engages the Lifter Rod (Near the Flywheel). Could a "worn" Lifter Lever have caused this much Damage to the Rod. Thank you again for following me with this... 

CLUTCH LIFTER (LEVER).gif

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What does the #9 lifter lever look like? Any wear?

Edited by Pygmy Warrior
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just looked at several used ones and most have similar wear on that end. Good thing is, you can still get the rod new and cheap.  But check the hole for obstructions.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello again Sir, I'll give you a photo of the Lifter Lever (It's worn) But not to the point that it would cause the GROOVE in the Lifter Rod (a.k.a. Pushrod). Thank you again for sticking with me on this matter, it means a lot too me.

Clutch Lifter - (Lever).JPG

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


×