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Sent off my 2018 300rr suspension

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Sent it to LT Racing for revalve. Bought the case for 70 bucks on Amazon. Shipping weight 45lbs, shipping UPS is 75 bucks with $3k insurance going from east coast to left coast. Wish me luck.

I actually liked the suspension for just about everything I did, until I started racing hare scrambles. The constant, and I mean constant by lap 3 square edge bumps in these races was killing me. 

The forks could feel harsh at times in hard pack but it's more so the shock that I'm not happy with. I do need to go a rate lower on front and rear but Les will take care of that. 

20180126_163331.jpg

Edited by jacob429
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Sent it to LT Racing for revalve. Bought the case for 70 bucks on Amazon. Shipping weight 45lbs, shipping UPS is 75 bucks with $3k insurance going from east coast to left coast. Wish me luck.
I actually liked the suspension for just about everything I did, until I started racing hare scrambles. The constant, and I mean constant by lap 3 square edge bumps in these races was killing me. 
The forks could feel harsh at times in hard pack but it's more so the shock that I'm not happy with. I do need to go a rate lower on front and rear but Les will take care of that. 
20180126_163331.thumb.jpg.578195d71223983a71eb3ee0322213cf.jpg

I'm also not so happy the the shock on my 500. I'm planning to get it worked on.

I'm ok with the forks.

Nice case! Can you share a link to it?
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37 minutes ago, danketchpel said:


I'm also not so happy the the shock on my 500. I'm planning to get it worked on.

I'm ok with the forks.

Nice case! Can you share a link to it?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E2217I6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1517325600&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=plano+rifle+case&dpPl=1&dpID=41TFfftJoWL&ref=plSrch

Not sure if this is against the rules. It's the Plano 42-inch rifle case. 

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Clever with the case. Did you just cut the foam to fit the shape of the suspension?

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2 minutes ago, NW_drZ said:

Clever with the case. Did you just cut the foam to fit the shape of the suspension?

It came with perforated foam to let you tear it to shape. It's kind of an ugly job I did but it works. The case is pretty beefy, thicker plastic than some other cases I've had so the protection should be really good. Any comparable cases I found on Amazon were over 200 bucks. There is a custom suspension box on Amazon as well for 35 bucks but I wouldn't recommend it because the seller was really flaky and I'm still trying to get a refund. 

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Nice. That's a great price for what it is. I just sent off just my fork tubes only, and even with just those I was uneasy in the standard gun case. 20180128_214513.jpg

So I wrapped them up extra.
20180128_215421.jpg


With a case like yours there would be zero issues with them shifting around.

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Nice. That's a great price for what it is. I just sent off just my fork tubes only, and even with just those I was uneasy in the standard gun case. 20180128_214513.jpg.5443654fae00cd34e3b07394976a58a2.jpg

So I wrapped them up extra.
20180128_215421.jpg.9271027d40c21caa1e6cb69ab15b39c8.jpg


With a case like yours there would be zero issues with them shifting around.


Are you having Afterhours (Steve) hard coat them for you?

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Are you having Afterhours (Steve) hard coat them for you?


No. I sent them off to a place just a few hours from here.

I know guys have had good results with Steve, but $265 USD plus shipping both ways is far too much IMO. Considering most anodizing places charge $100-150 to hardcoat motorcycle tubes. I know he needs to make his own margin, but after shipping and exchange it would run me around $500 to use Steve.

The guy I'm using is who the local suspension tuner uses (which I didn't even know when I first found them) and he assures me it's not nearly as daunting as many make it out to be.

It's just a simple hardcoat, and they do things with far more critical/tight tolerances.
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Cutting out the foam actually puts the susp pieces closer to the hard plastic and invites damage from rough handling that WILL occur. Leaving the foam thick provides extra cushioning which is the point and also makes the fit tighter which holds the individual pieces in place. Also use zip ties in the little holes in the case to add security along with a couple wraps of duct tape over the latches. The plastic latches are prone to coming unhinged, don't find out the hard way.

Edited by YHGEORGE
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2 hours ago, Goatse said:

 


No. I sent them off to a place just a few hours from here.

I know guys have had good results with Steve, but $265 USD plus shipping both ways is far too much IMO. Considering most anodizing places charge $100-150 to hardcoat motorcycle tubes. I know he needs to make his own margin, but after shipping and exchange it would run me around $500 to use Steve.

The guy I'm using is who the local suspension tuner uses (which I didn't even know when I first found them) and he assures me it's not nearly as daunting as many make it out to be.

It's just a simple hardcoat, and they do things with far more critical/tight tolerances.

What you are not considering is the internal anode fixturing.  This is a special setup that costs $$.  I know when I was looking for a local shop to do it correctly,  I got quotes of $500 for the fixturing setup alone, for one set of tubes.  Not practical for me alone, but doable in batch mode which is how its done.  There is a BIG difference between a standard $150 job thats tossed in a tank and this work.  The only way to get proper deposition in the center tube surfaces is with the internal anode.  I even had two sets of cartridge tubes done and there is no way they would be anywhere near acceptable without fixturing.  Race Tech has a good shop do this as well and their prices are similar to Steve's. 

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What you are not considering is the internal anode fixturing.  This is a special setup that costs $$.  I know when I was looking for a local shop to do it correctly,  I got quotes of $500 for the fixturing setup alone, for one set of tubes.  Not practical for me alone, but doable in batch mode which is how its done.  There is a BIG difference between a standard $150 job thats tossed in a tank and this work.  The only way to get proper deposition in the center tube surfaces is with the internal anode.  I even had two sets of cartridge tubes done and there is no way they would be anywhere near acceptable without fixturing.  Race Tech has a good shop do this as well and their prices are similar to Steve's. 

 

This shop does hollow tubing on a regular basis on a more critical industrial setting. On small diameter thin wall tubing you could have issues, but the larger diameter fork tubes not as much.

 

Also, the piece being anodized is the anode. Hence "Anodized". So the internal fixturing would be the cathode.

 

 

 

 

 

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1 minute ago, Goatse said:

 


This shop does hollow tubing on a regular basis. On small diameter thin wall tubing you could have issues, but the larger diameter fork tubes not as much.

Also, the piece being anodized is the anode. Hence "Anodized". So the internal fixturing would be the cathode. ;)
 

Your right, brain fart!   Maybe they have this setup if they do a lot of tubing, so there is no tooling costs rolled in.  I have had cheaper, basic  jobs done by a plater in CA on some 45mm Zokes and the results were as I said, less than ideal.  Let us know, hope it works out.:thumbsup:

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Your right, brain fart!   Maybe they have this setup if they do a lot of tubing, so there is no tooling costs rolled in.  I have had cheaper, basic  jobs done by a plater in CA on some 45mm Zokes and the results were as I said, less than ideal.  Let us know, hope it works out.




I figure, considering I didn't want to run with the tubes as is (with the wear), I doubt they could make them worse (unless they burn them). Even a bit of hardcoat down the inside, is better than what's in there right now.

I guess I'll find out though. They do hardcoat batches on Fridays, so I'll have them back mid next week.

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3 minutes ago, GP said:

Your right, brain fart!   Maybe they have this setup if they do a lot of tubing, so there is no tooling costs rolled in.  I have had cheaper, basic  jobs done by a plater in CA on some 45mm Zokes and the results were as I said, less than ideal.  Let us know, hope it works out.:thumbsup:

Any coating company that can handle aerospace grade anno's and hard coats should be able to coat fork tubes. You want quality, find a aerospace level coating company. The standards are typically very high, as are the tolerances very tight. When you are flying 10,000 feet and above you can't have failures due to poor coating.

I'd like to hard coat my fork tubes for my 2018 Beta 300, just currently looking for a place.

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8 minutes ago, NEGbrap said:

Any coating company that can handle aerospace grade anno's and hard coats should be able to coat fork tubes. You want quality, find a aerospace level coating company. The standards are typically very high, as are the tolerances very tight. When you are flying 10,000 feet and above you can't have failures due to poor coating.

I'd like to hard coat my fork tubes for my 2018 Beta 300, just currently looking for a place.

The place I spoke too outside Philly, PA did aerospace and mil spec work, lots of internal wall stuff like hydraulic cylinders they told me, but no standard fixture they could just drop a fork tube in.

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Also use zip ties in the little holes in the case to add security along with a couple wraps of duct tape over the latches. The plastic latches are prone to coming unhinged, don't find out the hard way.


Shoot. Good call on the latches. I used 8 different zip ties to keep the corners and handle closed, but didn't do anything with the latches. At the time I even thought "I wish these latches had holes for zip ties", but didn't even think of taping them.

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Jacob, couldn't you find anywhere local to do the suspension? I'm always about using local. It's not rocket science. It's nothing more than a hydraulic rod and shims to control the oil flow. Only reason I don't do my own is because of the price of the tools. These days I can squeeze a few seasons out of my suspension with nothing more than oil changes. 

 

 

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11 minutes ago, ballisticexchris said:

Jacob, couldn't you find anywhere local to do the suspension? I'm always about using local. It's not rocket science. It's nothing more than a hydraulic rod and shims to control the oil flow. Only reason I don't do my own is because of the price of the tools. These days I can squeeze a few seasons out of my suspension with nothing more than oil changes. 

 

 

yeah its simple,

but the magic is between the shim shufflers shuffling hands and his understanding of what velocities create what feelings in combination with his understanding of the end users preferences, skill, and terrain.

for example, if the dude cant ride fast, hes going to build crap comfort suspension

if the dude is a ripper, you might end up too firm

if he has some funny pet theories, you can end up with weird shit as well, one guy i knew thought that you should have pretty much no low speed and tons of high speed, he built lots of peoples stuff that way, dont know how/why they liked it.

others can have different ideas about rebound and free bleed.

so you really do want someone who has been around for a WHILE

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1 minute ago, EnglertRacing said:

yeah its simple,

but the magic is between the shim shufflers shuffling hands and his understanding of what velocities create what feelings in combination with his understanding of the end users preferences, skill, and terrain.

for example, if the dude cant ride fast, hes going to build crap comfort suspension

if the dude is a ripper, you might end up too firm

if he has some funny pet theories, you can end up with weird shit as well, one guy i knew thought that you should have pretty much no low speed and tons of high speed, he built lots of peoples stuff that way, dont know how/why they liked it.

others can have different ideas about rebound and free bleed.

so you really do want someone who has been around for a WHILE

All I know, is I watched an on board video of Russell Bobbit and it seemed like his bike just floated through everything. Either it was image stabilized, or his suspension was THAT good. I want that..............now..........please.

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15 minutes ago, NEGbrap said:

All I know, is I watched an on board video of Russell Bobbit and it seemed like his bike just floated through everything. Either it was image stabilized, or his suspension was THAT good. I want that..............now..........please.

Was he riding standard Sachs stuff? :)

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