MX stand build

[Hudson Charlton]

I'm thinking about building a MX scissor lift. I can't find any small rollers that go underneath the top platform and bottom trac for a reasonable price. I've been thinking about it more, and would just a regular bearing work? If you own a stand, I would like to see a picture of what type of rollers you have.

Thanks!

[William1]

Sure, your basic sealed bearing would be fine. The wider (to spread out load) the better.

I found to simple and cheaper to simply buy s pre-made lift. As parts on it wore out, I replaced with better parts. For example, the 'swivel' used to open and close the pump valve on mine failed and I replaced it with a swivel from a ratchet set. 100X higher quality and works smoother.

[76xtdrvr]

I do business with McMaster-Carr and they're good to deal with. The link might help. Check out the Skate Wheel selection.You may find that the size bearings you want are more costly than many types of casters.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#casters/=1b7pcy1

Edited January 20, 2018 by 76xtdrvr

[wr250ish]

I think cam follower bearings would be the easiest to integrate into a diy lift build. Do you know the id/od you might be looking for?

[Gowey]

Use the front rollers of a triller jack

[Hudson Charlton]

Sure, your basic sealed bearing would be fine. The wider (to spread out load) the better.
I found to simple and cheaper to simply buy s pre-made lift. As parts on it wore out, I replaced with better parts. For example, the 'swivel' used to open and close the pump valve on mine failed and I replaced it with a swivel from a ratchet set. 100X higher quality and works smoother.

I just don't know how much weight those things could handle. Guess that would be the simplest though. What would be the point having a smaller bearing covered in a plastic? Makes more sense to run all bearing.

[Hudson Charlton]

Do you know the id/od you might be looking for?

Somewhere from 1 inch to 2 OD.

[wr250ish]

I don't think I have any that small, I will look in the shop this week. If there are, you are more than welcome to them

[William1]

40 minutes ago, Hudson Charlton said:

I just don't know how much weight those things could handle. Guess that would be the simplest though. What would be the point having a smaller bearing covered in a plastic? Makes more sense to run all bearing.

Most bearings can support a surprising amount of weight. Think about your suspension bearings and steering head bearings and the forces on them.

Plastic will dent, develop flat spots and debris will be embedded. No floor jacks use plastic or rubber wheels for that reason. A lot more weight than a skate board tire and skate boards do not have non-moving weight sit on them all day.

[Hudson Charlton]

Most bearings can support a surprising amount of weight. Think about your suspension bearings and steering head bearings and the forces on them.
Plastic will dent, develop flat spots and debris will be embedded. No floor jacks use plastic or rubber wheels for that reason. A lot more weight than a skate board tire and skate boards do not have non-moving weight sit on them all day.

Really good points William. Look at any heavy machinery. Suspended with bearings holding 10s of thousands of pounds. I'm going to talk to a bearing supplier and see what they have to say. It's right in my area, and it wouldn't be hard to get a custom size.

[humbugtru]

This is what I made this weekend to lift my bikes with my 2 post lift.  Works awesome!  Bled the rear brakes at chest level!  I can change the oil and remove nearly any part (other than frame and pegs) safely.  My back is already thanking me!  It works really easy - just pull the bike in, swing the arm out and under the bike, extend the arm to center, push the up button on the lift.  After it is lifting a bit, you clamp down the pegs for safety.   I might make some quicker peg clamps later but these work well for now (they were some cheap spring compressors from HF that never worked well for their intended use).  I also need some paint.

[EnglertRacing]

On 1/20/2018 at 0:38 PM, Hudson Charlton said:

 

I'm thinking about building a MX scissor lift. I can't find any small rollers that go underneath the top platform and bottom trac for a reasonable price. I've been thinking about it more, and would just a regular bearing work? If you own a stand, I would like to see a picture of what type of rollers you have.

Thanks!

 

http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=AFF3160&source=froogle&kw=AFF3160&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwKvTBRC2ARIsAL0Dgk2rj1UMYw-f4m02E8TWbVhY46St4jbGlkTXcYQ4QqfWDohYw-z9v1oaAuANEALw_wcB

I saw one of these at the junk store

was considering adding an extra scissor section, so that it would barley fit under the skid plate but jack the whole thing up way higher!

[Edgecombe]

That's the only problem with my table it takes up alot of room, but I can use it for other things too.

[Fullthrottle1st]

On 1/22/2018 at 3:49 PM, humbugtru said:

This is what I made this weekend to lift my bikes with my 2 post lift.  Works awesome!  Bled the rear brakes at chest level!  I can change the oil and remove nearly any part (other than frame and pegs) safely.  My back is already thanking me!  It works really easy - just pull the bike in, swing the arm out and under the bike, extend the arm to center, push the up button on the lift.  After it is lifting a bit, you clamp down the pegs for safety.   I might make some quicker peg clamps later but these work well for now (they were some cheap spring compressors from HF that never worked well for their intended use).  I also need some paint.

Would you post a pic of the part the bike is sitting on without the bike?  I have a 2 post lift and would like to build one.  Would like to see how and what you used as a peg to fit into the hole in the end the lift arm.

Thanks...

[humbugtru]

Here you go.  I used a 1.75 diameter piece of bar stock that used to be a support pillar in an injection mold.  It was in the scrap bin at work.  I first had an old seat from a deer stand welded on for the frame but that was not strong enough so I cut most of it off (thus the strange metal on the bottom).  The farmer welds are a bit messy as the angle iron was crappy scrap from the packaging that my lift was bolted to.  Plus I just use a HF Flux core welder.  Not pretty but it works.  Hope it helps.

[Fullthrottle1st]

17 hours ago, humbugtru said:

Here you go.  I used a 1.75 diameter piece of bar stock that used to be a support pillar in an injection mold.  It was in the scrap bin at work.  I first had an old seat from a deer stand welded on for the frame but that was not strong enough so I cut most of it off (thus the strange metal on the bottom).  The farmer welds are a bit messy as the angle iron was crappy scrap from the packaging that my lift was bolted to.  Plus I just use a HF Flux core welder.  Not pretty but it works.  Hope it helps.

Great job my friend...  I've got all the scrap except the round bar stock, but I can probably find that in the scrap pile at work as well.  Thanks for the pics and description...

[Hudson Charlton]

I am attempting to build a dirt bike scissor lift. I would like to build one that is much more stable and heavy than those that are available from various stores. I love welding, so I hope this will be a great experience and I won't have to lift my dirt bike up on tables anymore. [emoji1]

I will try to post pictures of my progress as I go along.

[Hudson Charlton]

I picked up the materials yesterday.

 

 

[dirtdigger617]

What are you thinking as far as the design goes? If everything turns out good it will be a cool project.

[wielywilly-g]

Any sketches or blueprints drawn up?