What do you recommend to get this off?

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It’s normally a 10mm hex but it stripped. It’s stuck in there good, heated it with a propane torch and couldn’t get it.

 

Now it’s stripped good and it needs to come off.

 

Before i stick a Torx in there on a breaker bar does anyone have any other suggestions? I already ordered a new cap this one does t matter anymore.

6 minutes ago, dan2581 said:

 

 

 

It’s normally a 10mm hex but it stripped. It’s stuck in there good, heated it with a propane torch and couldn’t get it.

 

Now it’s stripped good and it needs to come off.

 

Before i stick a Torx in there on a breaker bar does anyone have any other suggestions? I already ordered a new cap this one does t matter anymore.

 

Out of interest what year/bike is this?

 

Out of interest what year/bike is this?
 


16 drz400sm

An appropriately sized Easy Out.

 

Spray some WD40 around the rim of it as well

Edited by CDNSXV

 drill out the hex and cut coarse threads in with a left hand tap

Edited by mxsteve1968

angle a center punch here with a few light hammer taps

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Chisel and hammer angle  like this. Quick easy you need new one anyway.  Could tighten like that if had to while waiting for new. Next time use correct size 😀

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Edited by Motox367
51 minutes ago, dan2581 said:

 


16 drz400sm

So part #25 and I'm assuming it is left loose ?

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As a suggestion, lean the bike over to the right againest a wall or something so you can leave it for say 4 plus hours and soak with PB Blaster. Then you could try using a center punch around the out side but I start at the top of the bolt. Basically you want to be able to get a good seat on the bolt and an easy place to start having at it.

Otherwise, PB Blast and hammer in a torque or hex head 1/2" socket and use an impact but make sure you are taking it out the right way.

I'm slightly surprised you stripped the head in the first place on a 16 with heat and again out of interest, why are you taking this bolt out?

Edited by filterx
So part #25 and I'm assuming it is left loose ?
su0416019006.thumb.gif.87987609c5df89b8512651c1952b2e9d.gif
As a suggestion, lean the bike over to the right againest a wall or something so you can leave it for say 4 plus hours and soak with PB Blaster. Then you could try using a center punch around the out side but I start at the top of the bolt. Basically you want to be able to get a good seat on the bolt and an easy place to start having at it.
Otherwise, PB Blast and hammer in a torque or hex head 1/2" socket and use an impact but make sure you are taking it out the right way.
I'm slightly surprised you stripped the head in the fist place on a 16 with heat and again out of interest, why are you taking this bolt out?


Good ideas. The air impact helped chew it up. It was a cheap 10mm hex. i was surprised air impact didn’t do it.

I banged it with a hammer before heat I’m going to tap around the outsides to loosen the threads, hit it with heat, and try this 30” breaker bar i just got.

I’m surprised too, but i bet the culprit is the o ring from being way overtightened. I need to remove it to set the piston to TDC for my first valve adjustment.

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Common mistake many owners make. Over tightened. Any plug that uses an oring is spun in by fingers until contact is made then just a quarter turn more. You do not want to crush the oring, just induce a little friction.

This very error is covered with 500 threads in the DRZ forum as it is way too common.

5 minutes ago, dan2581 said:

 


Good ideas. The air impact helped chew it up. It was a cheap 10mm hex. i was surprised air impact didn’t do it.

I banged it with a hammer before heat I’m going to tap around the outsides to loosen the threads, hit it with heat, and try this 30” breaker bar i just got.

I’m surprised too, but i bet the culprit is the o ring from being way overtightened. I need to remove it to set the piston to TDC for my first valve adjustment.

Ya try some PB Blaster and let soak for awhile cus IMO it will help with the seized o-ring (and on seized bolts in general) before you have at it.

Then obvious and just MO, the new bolt could use a bit of anti-seize and basically just snugged with an allen key when you re-install cus its really just a plug and not hold the outer case to the inner.

Good luck dude and keep us post on how it works out if you want :)

Better remove cover before working on that nut , heat was maybe not a good idea , theres stater wires  and a pick up coil behind that cover . 

3 minutes ago, habs said:

Better remove cover before working on that nut , heat was maybe not a good idea , theres stater wires  and a pick up coil behind that cover . 

Ya good point about using heat with the outer cover on and get the #19 gasket if you choose to remove.

Better remove cover before working on that nut , heat was maybe not a good idea , theres stater wires  and a pick up coil behind that cover . 


I thought if that too. No sizzling thigh. There’s a decent buffer of space/metal.

The breaker bar worked on my original case i put a hole in. The one on the bike is a used one. The torx is slipping, i need to pound it in harder and probably JB weld. The one off the bike popped right off and i had the same issue on the bike. It was almost stripped too.

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17 minutes ago, dan2581 said:

 


I thought if that too. No sizzling thigh. There’s a decent buffer of space/metal.

The breaker bar worked on my original case i put a hole in. The one on the bike is a used one. The torx is slipping, i need to pound it in harder and probably JB weld. The one off the bike popped right off and i had the same issue on the bike. It was almost stripped too.

IMG_1510.jpg

 

remove cover , screw 2 self tap screws in nut , grab both self tap screws with a long nose vise grip , twist . 

remove cover , screw 2 self tap screws in nut , grab both self tap screws with a long nose vise grip , twist . 


Damn all you guys trying to make me actually do some work and take the cover off. Not before i exhaust all lazy options! That will be plan C, here’s plan B

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My buddy threaded a bolt in there, came out ezpz.

if that fails, drill 2 small holes and use the spanner from your 4-1/2" grinder.

When I first bought my Z that cover was as usual tight and the allen hole just stripped even with good allen wrenches and ground so I had max debth .First tried it when the motor was hot ,but stopped and waited till cooled down, usually a hot motor helps, but not always.  I first drilled 2- 1/4" holes about an inch apart and tried an adjustable spanner which just bent plus started ripping out of the holes so I said piss on messing around and drilled a line of 1/8" hole all across the cap the cut it in half . You must be VERY careful of drill depth on the outside couple holes to not go into the cover itself . Once it had a line of holes one quick tap of a punch and the 2 halves fell out . Fairly simple . It is nice to have a replacement right there so you can see the shape as your drilling .

When reinstalling the new one I covered the threads with anti-seize and spun in/out a few times to fully cover completely then as William said, just snugged and done.

 

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Edited by jjktmrider
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