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Hi all. New here. I’ll be getting a 125 2 stroke very soon. I’m planing on doing a top end rebuild my self so I need to know what torque wrench to get that will work. 

Will a kinchrome micrometer torque wrench 1/2 work? Cailbrated: 10-150 ft/lbs 13.6 -203.5 nm 5% 

Australia.

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I think a 3/8” torque wrench would serve you better. I don’t *think* there is anything over 100ftlbs and the 3/8” should go to 5 which will be handy. 

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Ok. So if I do a top end what torque do they need to be set to? And what 3/8 should I get? Any 3/8?

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1/4 inch is more accurate & less prone to strip threads for smaller bolts - up to 14nm

3/8 inch from 6nm up to 110nm

1/2 inch from 30nm up to 210nm

I'm basing these readings on what i have

i have all 3

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When working on bikes you will find a lot of bolts that are under 10 ft/lbs (usually around 7 ft/lbs), so you do end up needing at least 2 torque wrenches.  I have a 30-250 in/lbs and a 10-100 ft/lbs, for instance.  But now that I have a KTM, I wish I had nm wrenches though...

 

Once you actually get a bike (and the manual that goes with it) you'll know exactly what the torque specs are.  But plan on bolts that range from 7(ish)-20(ish) ft/lbs for a top end.

 

 

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In addition to the torque wrench being a ¼”, 3/8” or ½“ drive and more importantly, your target torque should be in the middle of the range of the wrench.  For example if you theoretically had a torque wrench that was 0 Nm to 100 Nm, it would only be reliably accurate 25Nm to 75 Nm.  I sometimes go outside that range but pay very close attention to technique.  Often it helps to work up to the torque as well by torqueing to 75% then 100%

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8 hours ago, Tarron said:

What nm or ft/lbs do you need for top end ?

 Oring head 18 ftlbs /25Mn and gasket 21ftlbs 29Nm. That's twostroke heads ofcourse 

Edited by Motox367

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IM sure by this point i look like a damn Slavens Racing hack, its just where i go for all my stuff. Pretty much one shop. 

 

But just got the slickest digital torque wrench from him (3/8", but he has all 3) and it is guaranteed up to 2% accuracy. That was as a tight a tolerance as i could find without going scientific or really expensive. I think i paid $125. 

The awesome feature is you can program and store torque settings so you cycle through what you need (17nm for example) tighten, then switch right back to another setting. 

Super cool. anyone else used something like this and think its bees knees? 

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4 hours ago, CrashLander said:

In addition to the torque wrench being a ¼”, 3/8” or ½“ drive and more importantly, your target torque should be in the middle of the range of the wrench.  For example if you theoretically had a torque wrench that was 0 Nm to 100 Nm, it would only be reliably accurate 25Nm to 75 Nm.  I sometimes go outside that range but pay very close attention to technique.  Often it helps to work up to the torque as well by torqueing to 75% then 100%

In my opinion, CrashLander nails it here.  The way I see this importance playing out for working on my motorcycles and cars/SUVs is regarding the smaller, more delicate fasteners with torque specs.  For example, if I have a fastener to tighten with a 5nm (or in-lbs equivalent) spec, and I have a torque wrench with a low range beginning at 5 nm, I'm worried about the accuracy of that 5nm setting.  That's why I have a "certified" micro torque wrench that has served me well for years with smaller fasteners.  I don't even remember the brand, it uses battery for read-out and signaling--I store battery outside it and load-test battery before using it in wrench each time; my experience is my anecdote, but it has worked well for me for years.

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If you have the money.. I use this and it’s amazing. Does everything you could ever want out of a torque wrench. 

 

 

B79CA8C9-6FCF-4AF1-91C6-22AB82BE3AD6.jpeg

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Please don't flame me:rolleyes:.  with the harbor freight coupons you can get the torque wrenches for 9.99.  with that price you can get 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 for 30.00.  I was worried about the accuracy, so I bought a digital torque readout.   I tested all 3 of my wrenches and they were dang near spot on.  off by very little.  so for me I just picked up the harbor freight.   they measured slightly lower, which I was OK with.  I liked being a little lighter than too much torque.  I am satisfied.  I realize not everyone may have had the same experience.  

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In Australia you can't do much better than a Warren & Brown torque wrench, they are locally made and supported. Have been using them in the maintenance industry for the past

40 years, I am a Fitter and Turner by trade.

For the bikes I have 1/4, 3/8. Have also got a 1/2 inch one that is well over 40 years old ( pre-metric) that belonged to my father, the 1/4, 3/8 ones are relatively new, bought in the 1980's.

If you look after them they will outlast you. Just remember they are only for tightening bolts, treat them with care.

Website: http://wbtools.com.au

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1 hour ago, nozone said:

In Australia you can't do much better than a Warren & Brown torque wrench, they are locally made and supported. Have been using them in the maintenance industry for the past

40 years, I am a Fitter and Turner by trade.

For the bikes I have 1/4, 3/8. Have also got a 1/2 inch one that is well over 40 years old ( pre-metric) that belonged to my father, the 1/4, 3/8 ones are relatively new, bought in the 1980's.

If you look after them they will outlast you. Just remember they are only for tightening bolts, treat them with care.

Website: http://wbtools.com.au

I have a WB somewhere - never use it.

I have Kingchrome & Velocibi

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