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Hotcams question

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Hey all so im looking into getting some Hotcams for my DR but ive noticed some say they are for intake or exhaust. do i need to buy both? and what stage cams would be best for supermoto and some offroading/whoolies and stuff.

Thanks!

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Both, 2250 & 2251

Edited by 38super
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In general they work best in sets, on occasion a single cam may move power to a specific spot the rider is looking for.
How do you use your bike?
What other engine/intake mods have you done?

What do you want from the cams...IOW more power,,,but where?

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Hi,  I'm going to chip in and ask a question here -  I too have been thinking about some cams - as the first motor internal upgrade. I have an SM that's mainly street use.  I would like fatter torque from 4000 to 8000 RPM and maybe less drop off on power over 8000 rpm (not that I get to these engine revs often).  I will also be considering a big bore kit further down the line (questions for another day).   Modifications - Fuel injection (38mm throttle body) - this equals approximately a 39mm pumper carb and an aftermarket performance CDI, the 3x3 air box opening and a full Yoshimura RS2 system. 

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8 hours ago, Erik Marquez said:

In general they work best in sets, on occasion a single cam may move power to a specific spot the rider is looking for.
How do you use your bike?
What other engine/intake mods have you done?

What do you want from the cams...IOW more power,,,but where?

sorry for the late reply, i haven't done any mods. engine/intake is completely stock E model i use the bike mostly to commute/long distance ride but i want a bit more power out of the bike for when i go off roading or ride with the SM wheels on.

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sorry for the late reply, i haven't done any mods. engine/intake is completely stock E model i use the bike mostly to commute/long distance ride but i want a bit more power out of the bike for when i go off roading or ride with the SM wheels on.

What year E model? Most have cams that are very close to the profile of stage 2 hot cams from the factory meaning hot cams would be a waste of money.
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Just now, Backwoods-Bomber said:


What year E model? Most have cams that are very close to the profile of stage 2 hot cams from the factory meaning hot cams would be a waste of money.

2004

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Just now, Backwoods-Bomber said:


Yup, assuming your bike is all original you will se no benefit from hot cams.

That considered, if I were in your shoes the next logical steps to add power would be a Mrd zpro full exhaust and jetting/needle. From there it's on to the big bore kit.

that sucks but oh well thanks for saving me $500 haha and yeah i plan on getting a MRD as soon as i find out if the police will harass me for the noise(im already getting complaints with just the stock pipe lol) and i was looking at getting the Athena 440 kit/ JD jetting kit

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Don't waste money on Hotcam camshafts. Look at Megacycle or Web. They both offer way better performance for the money. If you are doing cams do them both.

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that sucks but oh well thanks for saving me $500 haha and yeah i plan on getting a MRD as soon as i find out if the police will harass me for the noise(im already getting complaints with just the stock pipe lol) and i was looking at getting the Athena 440 kit/ JD jetting kit

The cylinder works 434 kit is a very good quality kit with vertex piston and good gaskets included. It is available on Amazon and other online stores for about what you would have spent on the set of cams.

You can get a quiet core for the MRD that will make it a bit more civilized.

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6 hours ago, roleyrev said:

Hi,  I'm going to chip in and ask a question here -  I too have been thinking about some cams - as the first motor internal upgrade. I have an SM that's mainly street use.  I would like fatter torque from 4000 to 8000 RPM and maybe less drop off on power over 8000 rpm (not that I get to these engine revs often).  I will also be considering a big bore kit further down the line (questions for another day).   Modifications - Fuel injection (38mm throttle body) - this equals approximately a 39mm pumper carb and an aftermarket performance CDI, the 3x3 air box opening and a full Yoshimura RS2 system. 

Go big :smirk:

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2 hours ago, HeavyRotation said:

You're getting complaints from neighbors with a stock exhaust? Lol, you need to be scarier. My neighbors wouldn't complain about me in a million years of bad behavior.

my old KTM had a big fart can on it that was 100X louder than my DR and i would power wheelie it down the street at 11PM until i found out someone was recording me do it haha

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If a bigbore is in the future than don't buy cams yet. After the big bore buy a Web 536 intake and 540 exhaust assuming you have a 39mm carb. It will be a very linear delivery across the board and pull longer than HC's. If by chance you have a 41mm or want a little more top end go 540/540. If you like lots of top end at the expense of bottom buy 540/539.

 

 

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Hi,  I'm going to chip in and ask a question here -  I too have been thinking about some cams - as the first motor internal upgrade. I have an SM that's mainly street use.  I would like fatter torque from 4000 to 8000 RPM and maybe less drop off on power over 8000 rpm (not that I get to these engine revs often).  I will also be considering a big bore kit further down the line (questions for another day).   Modifications - Fuel injection (38mm throttle body) - this equals approximately a 39mm pumper carb and an aftermarket performance CDI, the 3x3 air box opening and a full Yoshimura RS2 system. 

The S intake cam is the probably costing you the most power right now. Adding only a HC stage 2 intake cam will really wake it up off the bottom. If you add the exhaust cam too in will rob some of the new found power and move it to the mid-range.
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15 hours ago, Wombat221 said:

that sucks but oh well thanks for saving me $500 haha and yeah i plan on getting a MRD as soon as i find out if the police will harass me for the noise(im already getting complaints with just the stock pipe lol) and i was looking at getting the Athena 440 kit/ JD jetting kit

While the current Hot Cams Stage 2 cams are essentially the same as original E cams.. that does not mean there are not other cams for your motor they will add or move power where you want it..
The down side, id not install any higher lift or more aggressive ramp profile cam than what you have now without at least fresh springs and valves

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