Easy pull clutch

[Guest]

I recently bought a CRF 230 L I wanted a small trail bike which was light enough to hang on the back of my off-road caravan while I am exploring Australia, but was also road registereable [ is that a word ! ].

Having reached the age of Arthritis, I found the 5.5 Kilo clutch a bit on the heavy side, so I was delighted to find the Moose Racing Easy-Pull system on e-bay.

Unfortunately, for those of us living Down under, the shipping costs from the USA, plus the exchange rate, can make stuff a bit on the expensive side.

Anyway, long story short, I found this Chinese device which they call for some reason a 'Stunt Clutch Pull Lever Replacement Easy' $US 18 free shipping ! On E-bay.

I know, I don't like sending dollars to China either.

But in Australia, we have to import almost everything.

We just don't have the manufacturing base here, it's a small market.

Anyway, It's arrived. And I fitted it today.

I measured the clutch pull before doing anything as I said at 5.5 kilo's.

Then I lubed the cable using a cable luber which allows the use of an aerosol can, and WD40 PTFE Dry lube.

This reduced the pull to about 5 kilo's.

 Like the Moose Racing device, it has three sets of holes for the fulcrum pin, I used the ones giving the shortest lever.

I couldn't be bothered doing the maths, so I thought I would start on the shortest, and move the pin if there wasn't enough lever travel.

As it happened, there was plenty of lever travel on that setting, and the lever pull was down to about 2.5 kilos !

Result !

I'm posting some pics of the thing. The quality is excellent. At first sight I thought it was plastic the finish is so good !

In fact I had to scratch through the finish just to make sure, and it is Aluminium.

 

  

Edited February 9, 2018 by Guest
Since taking pics, I've improved direction of cable out of lever with a cable tie. It's the headlight and wiring on the 'L' that are the problem.

[Guest]

Now that I have time to sit back and look at this device, and the distance from the fulcrum to each of the nipples, I can't see how it could reduce the pull by 50% !

[Guest]

Looking at this photoshopped image I did, I think the measurements show about a 45% increase in leverage. Not sure though.

Expert help needed?

[On2Whls]

Nice write up.  While I'm not yet in the need this may be a future consideration.  I would be concerned with longevity due to it being a casting, not billet and no bushing on the pivot point.  Magura makes a hydraulic product that can be used on a 230, but obviously is more costly.

[jeffrow68]

I bought this device also, but opted for a ez pull clutch lever instead since I did not want the extra device hanging off my bars in a vulnerable position. The ez pull lever is the same as the moose, but only cost around $20. I detailed it in a thread here a few weeks back, this was a very good investment. Here is a quote from my thread, details are in later posts:

I upgraded my clutch components and added the washers under the springs which really helped clamping power, however this resulted in a very hard to operate clutch lever. My forearms pump up easily and I was really struggling on longer rides with the hard pull. I found an eBay item called EZ pull lever/perch that works amazingly well. There are 3 positions available on the lever to alter the leverage and get the right amount of pull, I went with the highest ratio leverage position and it feels like my KTM hydraulic clutch, one finger operation!  I bought the knockoff version that was only $20, best money I have invested lately. Not sure about durability so I keep the original on standby, but several 4 hour rides and all is well.

[Confederate]

Maybe you need these.
Cause if the clutch is too stiff, how you hang on then. Sorry for the attitude must be the Joan Jett music playing on the radio, and they just played Ozzy Crazy Train before that.

[Guest]

1 hour ago, Confederate said:

Maybe you need these.
Cause if the clutch is too stiff, how you hang on then. Sorry for the attitude must be the Joan Jett music playing on the radio, and they just played Ozzy Crazy Train before that.

Did you read the bit about Arthritis ?

[daled]

I added about 8mm to the length of the arm at the clutch end and then flipped the cable mount over to align it with the new length....

My clutch can only take two fingers as it's been shortened....but I only need one....finger that is

[hockeyrick]

He said, "it's Joan Jett's fault!"

[Guest]

1 minute ago, daled said:

I added about 8mm to the length of the arm at the clutch end and then flipped the cable mount over to align it with the new length....

My clutch can only take two fingers as it's been shortened....but I only need one....finger that is

This sounds like a good idea,

Wish I had thought of it !

Another possible problem may be that there are no rubber boots on this thing like on the Moose Racing device to keep water out.

On the bright side, it didn't cost very much.

[Confederate]

Did you read the bit about Arthritis ?

Then remember hold on with your knees.

[Guest]

33 minutes ago, Confederate said:

Then remember hold on with your knees.

LOL, I have arthritis in my knees too !

[Guest]

20 hours ago, On2Whls said:

Nice write up.  While I'm not yet in the need this may be a future consideration.  I would be concerned with longevity due to it being a casting, not billet and no bushing on the pivot point.  Magura makes a hydraulic product that can be used on a 230, but obviously is more costly.

I'm not sure if it's a casting. Or what.

But I'm very impressed with the build quality.

It does seem to be a close copy of the American Moose Racing device, and we all know how the Chinese are very good [if 'GOOD' is the right word ], at copying western designs.

But as usually seems to be the case, they miss out on what we would assume to be obvious things like the rubber adjuster covers that Moose Racing include in their device to keep water out of the cables!

I can't help thinking that there are people in China copying western designs, without really having any understanding of the use they will be put to.

Maybe old age is just making me cynical.

  

[Chuck.]

I have a Trials bike with a hydraulic clutch and the ease of control with a light lever pull is addictive so I fixed my XR and CRF by a combination of ;adding length to the clutch arm, new low friction Motion pro cable, and a on one bike an easy pull Motion Pro Raptor Pro perch/lever.

CRF250X stock lever, stock springs: 8.4 lbs at 5" from lever pivot

CRF250X stock lever, stock springs, Motion Pro Silverlight cable, stock 1.6” c-c clutch arm plus a 0.8” extension; 5.8lbs lever pull at 5" from lever pivot. 31% reduction in lever pull.

XR218 with HD & shimmed springs, 1.88” c-c long clutch arm with a 3/4" extension, MotionPro Raptor easy pull perch: 4.8lbs at 4" from lever pivot.

Montasa 315R w/ stock hydraulic clutch: 3.9lbs at 4 1/2" from lever pivot.

The Montesa is an easy  one finger pull clutch. Another benefit is as lever pull decreases the range of engagement increases which make fine clutch control easier. 

 

This is a XR engine clutch arm that reduced lever pull 40%. It uses a short length of 1" wide steel strap. The pop rivit is used because there was not enough room for another bolt.

 

[ROD Kerry]

I once used and still have one of the easy pull/stunt devices which does in fact make the clutch softer and would probably be good for someone doing dual sporting and road riding but for technical trail riding that requires precise clutch control it doesn't work well.

 the device creates a wider spectrum of lever travel between engaging the clutch and disengagement.

lengthening the clutch arm worked out better.

I think the hydraulic clutch would yield the best results.

that's my 2 cents.

[Chuck.]

Yes the hydraulic is nice, and has a  light lever pull.  The long engagement range on the Trials bike is nice because it allows a wide range of control at slow bike speeds, sorta like a one finger hydro static drive control. And there is no delay on full engagement, even full throttle launches.  In contrast the clutch on my XR200R tends to judder when slipped.

[arthur6]

These devices don't let the clutch plates move far apart enough, will destroy the clutch plates in a short time.

[adnohguy]

These devices don't let the clutch plates move far apart enough, will destroy the clutch plates in a short time.

Agreed +1

I keep my OEM clutch cable replaced every few years, keep it lubed with a lube tool, use a lever with a greased needle bearing pivot and lube the lever pivot at the clutch case with Maxima Chain Wax.

I like the easy pull of a well lubed and smooth Clutch release setup, with full release, gradual/smooth modulation and positive engagement.
Having turned wrench’s and riding street/dirt bikes my whole life I’m guessing that my hand squeeze strength is more than adequate without using gimmicks?

At least it works for me.

[arthur6]

Small Honda XRs have the easiest clutch pull on the planet.
Lube the cable or buy a new cable.
CRF230 might be a little different but they have EASY clutch pull also.

Edited February 11, 2018 by arthur6

[mx4god]

While I fully agree that having a fresh and properly lubed cable is important to have a smooth and light clutch pull, I don't quite understand why you think having a modified clutch arm will destroy the clutch as long as it's still fully dis-engaging.