Fastline braided cable - stock routing

I installed a Fastline braided front brake cable this weekend. It's the same size as stock and uses the same route around the axel.

I took it for a ride out back and noticed a big improvemet over stock. I really didn't feel like doing the cr route and after the test ride im really happy with the improved braking.

Is there a way to get the brake adjusted to grab right when you touch the brake lever? Mine now feels like I can do 1 finger endos if I squeeze it, but it doesn't come on strong until squeezed about 1/4 of the lever travel.

Brakes were bled, Im wondering if I can get them to grab as soon as the lever is touched?

Maybe new pads? or can I adjust the lever? I don't want to put out the money for a oversized rotor or do the cr's not that big of a deal...just a little more squeeze right off the bat if it's possible! If not I'll live with the big improvement over stock that I have now :)



I just ordered that same cable, I haven't recieved it yet. I'm glad to here a good report. I ordered new brake pads and some oil too. (EBC MXS pads) I'll let you know how it works out. I was kinda nervous about the stock cable length, I feel a lot better after your report. Rock On :)

Yea....worry no more! kicks a$$! Big difference! You'll be happy, I am! All I did was change the line and fluid...maybe pads will help even more? How much were your pads? I'd just like to get the "action" of the lever set up a little better...I don't think it really has much to do with the brake line. I'll mess with it this week and if I get an improvement, I'll post back.


That's the misconception about the CR routing....the mushiness of a platic line comes from the fact that the plastic expands slightly when you are squeezing the lever. Braided lines have much less flex (although the laws of physics says that even a braided line expands slightly) and consequently have less loss of energy which makes the brakes work stronger with less lever pressure.

If you put a good braided line on the YZF, it works the same as a shorter braided line, provided the system has no air in it. Fluid does not compress, so you could have a 5 foot long braided line, and a 3 foot long braided line, and both would provide the exact same pressure at the caliper. When you squeeze the lever, what happens is that the fluid ACTS like a solid and exerts pressure the same as if you had a machanical rod pushing against the piston.

The only real advantage with the CR routing is that the brake line is slightly better protected since it is not subject to as much roost... :)

Yea, I didn't really want to mess with the cr routing after I heard about some of the guys here who did the conversion and ended up getting the brake line chewed up.

I noticed a night and day difference compared to the stock cable. I almost endoed on my sidewalk from the first brake application with the new line.


One advantage to the CR style is that the more direct route to the caliber give bubbles few places to hide. But as far CR style to a normally routed braided cable I can't see how there would be any difference. The extra portion in the stock setup is a solid peice of tubing. No flex there.

I went the CR route, but only because I got a used line on Ebay for 10 bucks. I also picked up new DOT 4 brake fluid, an FTS brake line clamp, and a Honda CRF front master cylinder. The CR/CRF master cylinder is supposed to improve the feel a bunch, you may want to look into it flyinguitars :)

I paid $24.99 each for front and rear pads, the cable was $63 at Chapparal. Total was about $127. with shipping to Houston. :)

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