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Need a 1998 rm125 manual model W


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Ok thanks i just ordered one.  Have you done a rebuild? I bought this bike with a bad wristpin bearing and i was putting the cases back together and im getting binding in the crank. and its driving me nuts. I had the crank sent to crankworks after i got a new rod kit and pressed it back together. I put in new crank bearings, double checked those they are the right size.  I made sure they are seated.  As i start pulling the case halves together the crank gets harder and harder to turn until it doesnt turn at all by hand.  So while i had it apart for a 3rd time trying to correct the issue im double checking the transmission while im at it because i didnt take the engine apart (got screwed by one of the local motorsport repair shops and ended up with a basket case).  I was using the heat and freeze meathod on the crank and seemed to be working fine but not 100% sure it is seated all the way.  This time i went out and bought a long bolt and some nuts and used an impact socked to sit on the case to pull the crank in.  Its seated full not sure if thats going to fix the problem but i figured id ask.   

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  • 1 year later...

I have a similar issue on a 1998 RM 125 I am taking apart right now.  I bought it with the crankshaft partially seized.  It will move through about half its stroke then stops dead.  I can hear metal to metal contact right before it binds.  Have you been able to figure this out?  Thanks, Brian

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Hello Brian, what have you taken apart so far? Hard to say until you inspect bearings on your crank and piston. Mine was from me not correctly seating the crank into the crankcase halve. At first when I got my crank back from crank works I just freezed my crank and heated my case halve and put it in the bearing giving it light taps with a rubber mallet (not the best idea due to just having it trued). When I put the cases together it binded as I stated. Making the puller is what fixed the issue. It was really easy to make once you find the right socket and go to the hardware store and find the correct bolt for the crank end. I heated the crankcase by setting it on the stove for a few minutes before pulling the crank in to give it some extra room. Another thing to remember is I replaced crank bearings in the cases too while i had the motor open. Those bearings not being set all the way down can give you binding too. The puller fixed my binding issue. I remember when i pressed the crank apart that the needle bearings were flattened. That might be your problem as of right now.

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