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What to to do on 300 RR

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17 hours ago, newk75 said:

Could someone explain what it means to " blow through the stroke"?

Using most of your travel with little control.

17 hours ago, Sierra_rider said:

Excessive bottoming, i.e. using all the suspension travel with hard bottoming.

You don't have to be bottoming to be thru your stroke.

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Quick update, I decided to start with stiffer springs while I have the bike apart. Would love a complete revalve but it's not in the budget for this year. I'm gonna try to do this on my own. There are some good vids on line that should help. 20180312_164929.jpg

Couple questions....
1. Are there any tools besides a seal driver that I should have?
2. What kind of fork oil should I be using for longevity?
3. Any other thoughts while I have the bike apart, without breaking the bank?

20180312_164909.jpg

I'm biting off a big chunk by doing this myself but should be a good learning opportunity. I'm also thinking of putting in Endoro Spec' s cartridge system in the future. Does anyone have any experience with these?
www.endurospec.com/store/p30/MXT%2FEnduro_Spec_Sachs_Cartridge_System.html

They say it's plug and play... Not sure, they tout it as really helping the performance in extreme conditions? Making it perform like a higher end system...

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You wont need any extra tools for changing the springs out. Super easy process. Stillwell has a video on YouTube showing the process. I went to a 5w after I changed my springs. Springs alone made a noticeable difference in the performance of my OC forks.

I did get the motion pro fork oil measuring tool on amazon. Made getting the desired level very easy.

While you have it torn down, check and grease the linkage, swing arm and steering head bearings. From factory my linkage and swing arm had an ample amount. My lower steering head bearing was bone dry and was starting to cause steering issues.

 

 

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+1 on the youtube videos. I also highly recommend the Recetech Suspension Bible, lots of good stuff on suspension theory outside of just the technical stuff. I use Maxima 5wt for my suspenson.

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Here are some vids from youtube that maybe could be helpful for you

The first guy even makes his own tool for the seals

The second video shows both RR and Racing model suspension.

Hope this helps

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On 2/26/2018 at 6:46 AM, newk75 said:

So I had a little lay down on the bike the other day and broke my upper sub-frame and air box. I got the bike tore down yesterday and wondered if there was anything else that I should be doing while I have it apart. I was thinking about installing a heavier duty spring? I am not the original owner but I believe it is the stock spring. I am 210 lbs with no gear so

1. Is it worth it?

2. How do I find the correct spring?

3. Is it a project for a novice handyman, and does it require special tools?

At some point when work picks up I would like to send the suspension off on my 500 and 300. The 300 is new to me but I know that I will bottom out the 500 when I land in the flat on jumps. I should say that this is just adventure riding no track my main goals are traction, confidence, and safety. 

gn

20180225_164313.jpg

Since you have it apart you might look at different guards to add on, maybe big radiators, stainless spokes, different seat foam, cover? Bars? Controls... There’s a myriad of choices.. Maybe look through the trickest 250 300 thread for ideas..S3 head, RK head. Pipe, silencer?? It kind of depends on what terrain you ride and how much you have budgeted.  

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I'm all about cheap even though I can afford new and nice, I made my fork oil level device from a turkey baster and clear tubing. Just measure up the tubing for the oil height and place a small zip tie to mark it, the tie can be moved around for different measurements.

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Posted (edited)
51 minutes ago, mtdirtbag said:

I'm all about cheap even though I can afford new and nice, I made my fork oil level device from a turkey baster and clear tubing. Just measure up the tubing for the oil height and place a small zip tie to mark it, the tie can be moved around for different measurements.

Thanks Dirt Bag, 

I saw that in the video. I found one already made online for $10. I could probably save a bit if I had tubing but I think I will order one. I also saw the seal driver the guy made out of the PVC. Could definitely save some $$$ there but worry that it will contact the seal incorrectly and damage it? I have never done this so I don't know what to look for. I may just leave the seals for now and deal with them when I have it valved...

Has anyone used the AMS oil shock therapy light oil? I love their other products.... Just searched the site, looks like asking oil preference questions is like asking tire preference, all over the map

Thanks for the responses I ordered the turkey baster style oil level tool, and the graduated cylinder. Looking forward to getting this thing sprung for my fat butt and then I can tackle the 4t. 

 

I did notice that no one replied on the Mxt/Enduro Cartridge system

https://www.endurospec.com/store/p30/MXT%2FEnduro_Spec_Sachs_Cartridge_System.html

Warren @ enduro spec took a bit of time to talk to me about them and said they that it offers a plusher ride @ low speed yet still addressing the the high speed.

From Enduro Spec:

"The traditional stock bottoming control system is limited in that it can't manage multiple speeds or accelerations inside its travel. Stock systems can be adjusted to provide good control for either low or high-speed bottoming, but doing so limits the ability to absorb the other. The MXT Huck Valve manages the limitations of typical bottoming control systems. The Huck Valve has speed sensitive bottoming control, by incorporating a pressure sensitive valving mechanism. This allows for both high entry speeds and low entry speeds effectively. MXT Huck Valve equipped forks allows the set-up to be plusher while not sacrificing the overall control of the fork."

Is this marketing or is this a legit upgrade? 

 

Gary

 

Edited by newk75
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31 minutes ago, newk75 said:

Thanks Dirt Bag, 

I saw that in the video. I found one already made online for $10. I could probably save a bit if I had tubing but I think I will order one. I also saw the seal driver the guy made out of the PVC. Could definitely save some $$$ there but worry that it will contact the seal incorrectly and damage it? I have never done this so I don't know what to look for. I may just leave the seals for now and deal with them when I have it valved...

Has anyone used the AMS oil shock therapy light oil? I love their other products.... Just searched the site, looks like asking oil preference questions is like asking tire preference, all over the map

Thanks for the responses I ordered the turkey baster style oil level tool, and the graduated cylinder. Looking forward to getting this thing sprung for my fat butt and then I can tackle the 4t. 

 

I did notice that no one replied on the Mxt/Enduro Cartridge system

https://www.endurospec.com/store/p30/MXT%2FEnduro_Spec_Sachs_Cartridge_System.html

Warren @ enduro spec took a bit of time to talk to me about them and said they that it offers a plusher ride @ low speed yet still addressing the the high speed.

From Enduro Spec:

"The traditional stock bottoming control system is limited in that it can't manage multiple speeds or accelerations inside its travel. Stock systems can be adjusted to provide good control for either low or high-speed bottoming, but doing so limits the ability to absorb the other. The MXT Huck Valve manages the limitations of typical bottoming control systems. The Huck Valve has speed sensitive bottoming control, by incorporating a pressure sensitive valving mechanism. This allows for both high entry speeds and low entry speeds effectively. MXT Huck Valve equipped forks allows the set-up to be plusher while not sacrificing the overall control of the fork."

Is this marketing or is this a legit upgrade? 

 

Gary

 

I would be very interested in seeing how those cartridges perform.  I'm afraid they're too pricey for me by the time I get them through the Canadian border tax/customs.   

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I would be very interested in seeing how those cartridges perform.  I'm afraid they're too pricey for me by the time I get them through the Canadian border tax/customs.   

Yeah they are spensive! However, if they would help you ride longer and safer I'd listen. worst thing for me would be if I liked it so much that I need it on other bike. He (the guy selling) said it would cost a lot more to get equal performance without the cartridges.
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49 minutes ago, silver_fox said:

I would be very interested in seeing how those cartridges perform.  I'm afraid they're too pricey for me by the time I get them through the Canadian border tax/customs.   

Best way to handle that is to drive South for a ride and go home with the upgrade.

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1 hour ago, newk75 said:


Yeah they are spensive! However, if they would help you ride longer and safer I'd listen. emoji4.png worst thing for me would be if I liked it so much that I need it on other bike. He (the guy selling) said it would cost a lot more to get equal performance without the cartridges.

That’s a newer upgrade it seems. It’s up to whomever who has to post up. Even ohlins inserts and forks which have been around a long time don’t have lots of feedback. There’s some but not alot. It looks and sounds good. See how it is with springs and then you can figure your next step. There are tons of options. 

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2 hours ago, hawaiidirtrider said:

Im thinking this is moving up my list for goodies to add. Something else to think about maybe when you’ve ridden yourbike awhile and looking for a boost. 

https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1256197-two-stroke-head/

Yeah I have been seeing this. I will be honest, I am not ready for any power mods. I need more seat time to get used to 2t. In 4 weeks we have a 7 day trip to Moab it will be nice to settle in and learn how to ride this thing. Once I feel like I am riding it the way it needs to be ridden I will start looking @ power and power delivery mods. There is nothing like spending consecutive days being pushed in your riding ability to make quick advances in skill level. 

You would be a good one to ask, as you have a video library. As a 4t guy just learning the 2t I constantly feel like I am in the wrong part of the revs either too low to punch out or too high to have anything left. Are there any good vids to teach this for a 2t? I watched that Jarvis vid you linked in another thread and noticed that he spend very little time in the higher rpms. I know that is a problem with me coming from the 500 4t I am staying in one gear too long, however, I need some good training vids so I can learn from my couch while the bike is in pieces. 

BTW it would be easier to get seat time if it had a seat on it. This little laydown has me sidelined spending money instead of riding. In any case I will spring it for my weight which will be a good start and then I can begin riding and dialing it in. I will say that this bike (when upright) has a smile on my face. :rolleyes:

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40 minutes ago, newk75 said:

Yeah I have been seeing this. I will be honest, I am not ready for any power mods. I need more seat time to get used to 2t. In 4 weeks we have a 7 day trip to Moab it will be nice to settle in and learn how to ride this thing. Once I feel like I am riding it the way it needs to be ridden I will start looking @ power and power delivery mods. There is nothing like spending consecutive days being pushed in your riding ability to make quick advances in skill level. 

You would be a good one to ask, as you have a video library. As a 4t guy just learning the 2t I constantly feel like I am in the wrong part of the revs either too low to punch out or too high to have anything left. Are there any good vids to teach this for a 2t? I watched that Jarvis vid you linked in another thread and noticed that he spend very little time in the higher rpms. I know that is a problem with me coming from the 500 4t I am staying in one gear too long, however, I need some good training vids so I can learn from my couch while the bike is in pieces. 

BTW it would be easier to get seat time if it had a seat on it. This little laydown has me sidelined spending money instead of riding. In any case I will spring it for my weight which will be a good start and then I can begin riding and dialing it in. I will say that this bike (when upright) has a smile on my face. :rolleyes:

The switch over from a big 4t to the 300 2t is a bit of a learning curve but not as different as say a 250 or smaller 2t. The 300 will lug even lower than the 4 stroke and it also pulls fairly strong into the higher revs. The 2t responds much better to clutch modulation than the big 4t does. Your Moab trip will be the perfect training grounds, you just need more seat time to get the feel.

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ps

Trying to learn from watching a Jarvis vid will do nothing but make you feel utterly non skilled, that guy can do things on a bike that no mortal can do.

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Posted (edited)
11 minutes ago, silver_fox said:

ps

Trying to learn from watching a Jarvis vid will do nothing but make you feel utterly non skilled, that guy can do things on a bike that no mortal can do.

That is funny, and true, it was a good reminder that I don't need to be white knuckled with RPM's pegged to do all I want it to do. I think my issue is that it is so soft sounding in the low rev's I  keep twisting. Sounds like it will do more than I think it will in the low end. My brain tells me that I need to hear that 2t ping/brapp. You never hear about the purrrrrrrr

Edited by newk75

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4 minutes ago, newk75 said:

That is funny, and true, it was a good reminder that I don't need to be white knuckled with RPM's pegged to do all I want it to do. I think my issue is that it is so soft sounding in the low rev's I  keep twisting. Sounds like it will do more than I think it will in the low end. My brain tells me that I need to hear that 2t ping/brapp. You never hear about the purrrrrrrr

Haha yes, by any chance did your crash involve braaaap ..... shiiiittt? 

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It is possible that there was some of that on the ground where I landed!

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By the way if you do the MTX cartridges, I think you will have to buy  their springs in addition. Might be worth it if your fast, I'm not that fast. I got heavier RaceTech springs. waiting for winter thaw to try them out.

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