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What to to do on 300 RR

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Mark-us-B sceptical?
I'm basing my pricing on Les's high side estimate + $100-$150 for packaging and shipping..... I could and would justify the price if I hadn't seen the other system. No doubt it would far better than stock (which I like).
When I hear more about the inserts I'll pull the trigger.
My understanding from enduro spec is that the price includes rider specific tuning.
I did like Les, he has my business if I go that route.
I'm sure that if I had your years of experience I'd be done by now. I do appreciate the responses they are helpful.
I probably wouldn't even post my ignorance, except I think it helps other guys like me to see what's out there and hear feedback from a novice.
Spring is here and my bike looks like20180312_164909.jpg.29832b65c6bbb2f11f04b7e37016e0c6.jpg



Didn’t mean to sound overly skeptical, my bad!!

I grind and look for way to save 24/7 when it comes to my hobbies/toys (Dirt&Street Motorcycles/Drift&PowerBoats/Alfa-Spider/JeepRubicon/RAM-CTD/FlyFishing/Labradors/Hunting) etc. etc. etc.

So I’m constantly pinching coins and rubbing them together to squeeze a little extra out of each of them, lol!!!

Packaging is a game I play on using only UPS for my suspension, pre-package my stuff so it can be returned in all the same packaging.

Best of luck with your endeavors, seriously. When I started with that new clean-blank slate (2014 Beta 450RS-BYOB bike in 2015) it was daunting to get it correct for my needs, it took a couple of years.

Though even today I do look at CC-forks, as I sometimes tackle big rock gardens and other obstacles that the OC fork in general struggles with, I toss around the idea of just exchanging my Sachs OC’s for Sachs CC’s. But for me at least the Sachs OC forks perform great on 85-90% of the trails I hit.

Cheers!
M
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I grind and look for way to save 24/7 when it comes to my hobbies/toys (Dirt&Street Motorcycles/Drift&PowerBoats/Alfa-Spider/JeepRubicon/RAM-CTD/FlyFishing/Labradors/Hunting) etc. etc. etc.

Cheers!
M

Looks like we have some similar sickness! 1521140919077.jpeg

Add golf for some additional punishment.
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Posted (edited)

Question : do I need to remove the base valve and the cartridge to change the spring?

 

If not do I need to re-prime the cartridge? If I don't have to remove it? 

 

Peace,

Edited by newk75

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28 minutes ago, newk75 said:

Question : do I need to remove the base valve and the cartridge to change the spring?

 

If not do I need to re-prime the cartridge? If I don't have to remove it? 

 

Peace,

Nope, super easy. Loosen the fork cap, pull up, seperate the cap from the damper rod and extract the spring.

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Drilled a hole fractionally bigger than the fork tube into some black walnut I had laying around. I figure wood would be soft on the aluminum. Spilt one side so I could compress it. Works good, holds it very solid. Need to work on something besides 2x4 that's adjustable to hold the lower fork tube. 20180316_173250.jpg20180316_174342.jpg

Got springs installed. Need to set oil level. Saw in one video 130 mm is that standard or is there a chart?

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130 is stock setting, with springs removed.
Does larger spring use less oil, or is it insignificant? I went up two spring sizes.

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1 hour ago, newk75 said:
11 hours ago, BENriding said:
130 is stock setting, with springs removed.

Does larger spring use less oil, or is it insignificant? I went up two spring sizes.

nope, use the same oil height then tune to your liking from there.

i'm stealing that wood block tube holder idea! dig it.

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Just crack the cap loose in your triples with the top loose, bottom tight.  If your not a woodworker,  rubber soft jaws just snug work fine with the bottom of the fork supported/elevated.  A very useful tool is an old triple or triples of the correct diameter(s).

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