Free power mod

[Stroked-Z]

So I just cut the red and black wires from the r/r and run wires to the battery? What wires do I eliminate then? Pics?

[HansLanda]

There are threads with photos and videos of exactly what and how to do it. But basically yes, upgrade the gauge of wire from RR to battery and seal off the other, cut wires.

[Stroked-Z]

Was more interested in eliminating those wires from the harness instead of sealing them off. Pics of those wires that I could eliminate would be helpful

[Jboat]

 

[Noble]

You really cannot eliminate the wires from the harness.  Both the black and red RR wires "T" into wires in the harness necessary to make the motorcycle run.  You can cut off the red and black RR wires very close to the main harness if you want. The cut red wire is always hot so it needs to be well insulated.

[Murph783]

What’s the “RR” ?

[tplayer100]

1 hour ago, Murph783 said:

What’s the “RR” ?

Regulator/Rectifier. It converts AC power from your stator to DC for your battery (Rectifier) and keeps the voltage below the max threshold (Regulator).

[Murph783]

Ahhhh gotcha

[Beta300REcat]

1 hour ago, Murph783 said:

What’s the “RR” ?

 

Then the AC-current is led through the rectifier inside the regulator-rectifier-unit. The rectifier converts the three AC-phases to a single 14.4 Vdc output, a ground and a positive. Because the stator is producing power according to the engine-speed the stator-output is too high all the time. This would mean the output voltage of the regulator-rectifier would be way over 14.4 Vdc all the time, which would result in an overcharged battery and blowing electrical components on the bike that were meant to run on a voltage between 12 and 15 Vdc.

Luckily there is also a regulator-part inside a regulator-rectifier. The regulator  looks at the DC-voltage across the battery-terminals and short-circuits a certain amount of power that is produced by the stator to ground. This is regulated constantly, so the output-voltage of the regulator-rectifier (which ideallyis the same as the voltage across the battery-terminals) stays at 14.4 Vdc all the time.The permanent magnet generator-setup is not very efficient, but it is very simple and quite reliable. This explains why it is the most commonly used system on motorcycles.One of the problems with these systems is the short-circuiting of the excess power itself. This is done by the regulator-rectifier and this part has to dissipate the power that it shorts to ground, meaning it will get very hot. This is mostly because of the regulator and partly by the rectifier-diodes themselves that get hot just because of the current flowing through it. The regulator-rectifier internals need to be built so that the heat is transferred efficiently from the electronical components themselves to the housing of the unit, mostly equipped with cooling-fins. This is the most important bit in designing a regulator-rectifier for use in a permanent-magnet generator-setup.

http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/technical-articles/how-motorcycle-charging-system-works

Edited March 5, 2018 by Bermudacat

[Erik Marquez]

14 hours ago, Stroked-Z said:

So I just cut the red and black wires from the r/r and run wires to the battery? What wires do I eliminate then? Pics?

 

cut the wires and triple seal them in heat shrink tube.  The double seal is shown below, then cover both sealed wires with a third piece... I use double wall adhesive lined heat shrink tubing for this for a weather tight seal. 
You can do that on the wiring harness side removing the plug all together, or leave the plug like I did for this user so he has a available power source for a small wattage circuit later 

[Stroked-Z]

I have my whole harness unwrapped. I'm taking out some wires. Thx for the help tho. I was really inspired to do my bike completely over by this guy doing a build on YouTube. I have alot less wires than this guy even has. And eliminated 7 connectors. Super clean drz. 

 

 

 

Also can I eliminate my breather box? Just run a T fitting and the hose that went back to the airbox just run a hose to the ground. I don't have an airbox anymore. 

Edited March 6, 2018 by Stroked-Z

[ohiodrz400sm]

 
Also can I eliminate my breather box? Just run a T fitting and the hose that went back to the airbox just run a hose to the ground. I don't have an airbox anymore. 

Highly debated question there. I found I lost an unacceptable about of oil without it. The E model didn't vent into the airboot, it vented straight down into atmosphere. You could do the same.

[HansLanda]

1 hour ago, Stroked-Z said:

Also can I eliminate my breather box? Just run a T fitting and the hose that went back to the airbox just run a hose to the ground. I don't have an airbox anymore. 

Some replace it with an inline Polaris filter (PN 2530029) and cap the oil return on the cylinder. I hope to test it out soon.

[Stroked-Z]

How much oil did u lose bc I change my oil every 500 road miles. i got (4) 4qt jugs of  Silkolene 15w50 and 10 oil filters. Cost a pretty penny but should protect this 485 with titanium valves pretty good. I don't think ill lose that much. I'd rather not have the box there. Just a T fitting

[Erik Marquez]

1 hour ago, Stroked-Z said:

How much oil did u lose Just a T fitting

A lot...... its an epically bad idea that just wont die ..
But like many, try it for your self and see if your ok with the loss of oil and where it ends up.

Just dont throwaway the box and hoses 

[Stroked-Z]

I saw a guy has a see through oil breather setup n almost zero oil is in there. A bit of mist of but not enough oil to even pass the filter to drain back into the motor. Maybe it just has to do with blow by or if ur engine is worn badly it blows oil idk. Maybe instead of running the vent hose to the ground I'll run it up to the handlebars and see if any sprays out when I'm hammering the throttle. I change and check my oil often enough I'm not worried about losing .1 or .2 of a quart in between oil changes. 

[BillDirt1]

I saw a guy has a see through oil breather setup n almost zero oil is in there. A bit of mist of but not enough oil to even pass the filter to drain back into the motor. Maybe it just has to do with blow by or if ur engine is worn badly it blows oil idk. Maybe instead of running the vent hose to the ground I'll run it up to the handlebars and see if any sprays out when I'm hammering the throttle. I change and check my oil often enough I'm not worried about losing .1 or .2 of a quart in between oil changes. 

Is this the breather box you're talking about? I just put a T-fitting & done. Did it to all 3 of my DRZ's, never leaks any oil.

[Erik Marquez]

1 hour ago, Diverdown said:

Is this the breather box you're talking about? I just put a T-fitting & done. Did it to all 3 of my DRZ's, never leaks any oil.

Yes it is, and OK if it does not spit any oil for you, good.... never seen one not but hey if it works for you... congrats ..mere mortals should consider keeping the oil vapor recovery box as it weighs only a few ounces, works very well  and has no downside I can understand...
To each his own, do what works for you.

 

 

[BillDirt1]

Yes it is, and OK if it does not spit any oil for you, good.... never seen one not but hey if it works for you... congrats ..mere mortals should consider keeping the oil vapor recovery box as it weighs only a few ounces, works very well  and has no downside I can understand...
To each his own, do what works for you.
 
 

Not concerned about the weight at all. Just hate having what seems to be useless crap on my bike :excuse me: I know it works, that's why I did it to all my bikes. Everyone should do it lol. [emoji106]

[Stroked-Z]

U guys wait till u see my drz when it's done. No airbox, no battery box, no passenger pegs, removed tool bag on rear fender, no rubber fork covers, no headlight mount/brackets, ziptied battery on rear fender, and rear fender is zip tied and headlight shroud is ziptied on, no breather box, mrd shorty, fcr 41 getting bored to 43.5mm (deleted return cable), helmet lock cut off, no front sprocket cover, plastic chain guard removed and tabs cut off, took stock skid plate off, tons of wires shortened and 7 connectors eliminated so far, lithium ion battery, no mirrors,no battery box plastic cover or airbox plastic side cover and won't be running the exhaust side plastics, drc edge 2 integrated tail light. Wires will b clean and tucked. I might have the lightest drz on the forum when it's done. Only about a month away. Sometimes less is more. 

What do u guys think it'll weigh?

Edited March 8, 2018 by Stroked-Z