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2015+ WR250F Owners (fuel Injected) - How has yours been?

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Just picked up a very low mileage 2015 WR250F.

 

My current bike is 2013 WR250F and I have to say they are nothing a like. The older model really does feel quite dated.

 

I much prefer the newer one, but before I go list old reliable up for sale - how has the 15+ models been for you guys?

Any common problems to be aware of?

 

At the moment, the only thing I can pick on is it doesn't start very easily when cold - I sit there cracking it for a bit with the choke pulled out or in and opening/closing the throttle (which shouldn't make any difference, its fuel injected!)

 

I also noticed after washing the bike and after getting it started it puffed out a bit of smoke - could have indicated a bit of a rich mixture?

Are these issues worth worrying about?

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I love mine, it’s been a great bike. The suspension is amazing!

Valves haven’t moved at all in 100 hours. My only issue is the design of the stator cover, it sticks out (a lot) more than the YZF and my shift lever cracked the case in an off. 

My theory about it being difficult to start cold is that the fuel injection on this bike just doesn’t prime as well as a carb. It’s never been an issue though, I just poke the button 3 or 4 times and it fires up easily

 

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2015 is a great bike.  There are 3 of us in my group that have them.  Two of the guys got them new in 2015 and have been riding them hard set up as supermotos.  No issues, so I picked a leftover 2015 FX up last January for a great deal.  I've been riding mine on both dirt and pavement since then, no problems, nothing out of spec.

Cold start takes a little technique:  Pull the choke.  Tap the button.  Wait 20-30 seconds.  Press the button for a few seconds till it starts up.  I find it makes a huge difference to prime the bike like that.  I also find mine will give a puff of smoke with the first blip of throttle when cold.  It's pretty common with these bikes and my theory is that it is related to the fact that the crankcase breather is a closed system between the airbox and the crank (oil re-circulates).

Edited by drewnabobber
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Hmmm interesting theory regarding the smoke on cold start.

 

No other 4 stroke I have owned does it - including fuel injected street bikes and carby'd dirt bikes.

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7 hours ago, m0tyrider said:

Hmmm interesting theory regarding the smoke on cold start.

 

No other 4 stroke I have owned does it - including fuel injected street bikes and carby'd dirt bikes.

I have a 2015 yz250f it smokes up on start up 2. I no a few others that do 2 seems common with them

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I bought mine new in '15 and it's been mostly good.  I did have a gearbox issue which Yamaha helped me with the parts.  Like yours, my bike starts like crap when cold. 

Mods-  I did a little suspension internal re-valving with slightly softer compression dampening in both front and rear, added more rebound control in rear.  Also, a Q4 muffler and some aggressive mapping.  Stock bars were weird for me, so I swapped to Pro Taper Windham RM mid height bars, and also added the solid handlebar "cones" to replace the rubber mounts.  I have the GYTR scoop shovel skid plate which looks sort of silly but provides excellent protection without too much rattle noise.  

Runs great, nice power, really tractors up hills and revs out nicely, very good fuel mapping, rarely stalls, never flames out,

Downside- it's a tall and sort of heavy.

One thing to know- try your rear suspension with 115-120mm sag rather than the manual's spec of 105.  The WR's rear suspension has 12mm more drop out than a YZF so you need to have more sag to get the linkage in the same sweet spot and also get the steering working better.  Also drop the forks just a bit too.  These two changes will make the steering a bit less abrupt. 

Hope all this helps.  

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I don’t use the choke, and I’ve started mine down to 10*F. If the motor is cold, it usually dies right away after the first push. The second one sticks. It’s been the same since it was new. When the motor is warm, it starts on the first push. Guess I got a happy bike.

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I also noticed there is quite a bit of clutch drag when the engine is off.

 

The bike is very hard to push around with it then in gear and the clutch lever held in. Is anybody else's like that ?

 

Finding netural while the bikes running is almost impossible as well, and when I do it will normally click itself back up to 2nd.

 

I am guessing this is all related as I had a triumph with a similar problem. Ended up being the clutch incorrectly assembled...but my 2015 WR250F has all but 16km on the clock so far.

 

Any thoughts?

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I never liked the stock clutch.  It worked ok but did drag a bit, and then one day I overheated it and it was never the same, massive amounts of drag.  But I cooked it pretty good.  Swapped to a set of cheap EBC plates (kept the OEM springs, so nice and light) and it was night and day.  No drag, easier engagement, was a different bike.  Normally I am a fan of OEM clutch packs, but not in this bike.

I'd take your clutch apart and check the plates for trueness and make sure everything is installed and torqued correctly.

 

 

24131767_10159774256255128_3936983674555484131_o.jpg

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On 3/9/2018 at 0:31 AM, m0tyrider said:

I also noticed there is quite a bit of clutch drag when the engine is off.

 

The bike is very hard to push around with it then in gear and the clutch lever held in. Is anybody else's like that ?

 

Finding netural while the bikes running is almost impossible as well, and when I do it will normally click itself back up to 2nd.

 

I am guessing this is all related as I had a triumph with a similar problem. Ended up being the clutch incorrectly assembled...but my 2015 WR250F has all but 16km on the clock so far.

 

Any thoughts?

Yeah mate, I've had the exact same issue with my '15 WR. Almost impossible to get it into neutral, and pulling the clutch in doesn't seem to fully disengage properly. I've played around with the freeplay at the lever and got it set so I am definitely disengaging it with the lever (no drive to the rear wheel with the clutch pulled in), it's still very hard to push around.

 

Dunno how to fix it sorry.

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Clutch drag while the engine is off and trying to push the bike while in gear with the clutch lever pulled in happens on every bike I've owned.

It's a characteristic of an oil-bathed clutch like motorcycles have because the oil film tends to make the plates stick together with the engine off.

Edited by YZEtc
Better choice of words

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There's a thread somewhere - maybe here - that talks about this issue and cites the OEM judder springs in the OEM clutch pack as the culprit. Remove the two (?) judder springs and all your problems are solved so they say. I have a 2015 as well and experience the exact same issue. I haven't yet pulled these pieces. Apparently aftermarket clutch packs don't have them, the other poster has experienced no issues with removing them, and my bike mechanic said they were fine to remove.
That's what I'm doing next to try and help this problem.

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Just did a oil change on my bike. Was a bit alarmed as to what I found on the oil screen.

 

Also took a video of the smoke on cold start.

 

Should I be worried about this debris? I am concerned about the metal that was on it.

 

I am assuming it's the bikes first ever oil change.

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Your idle is a little low, and you don't need to leave it on choke for that long.  Lots of threads on here about cold start on these bikes and about a couple of puffs of smoke at startup.  Do a leakdown test if you are worried, but meh.

Change oil/filter and check screens regularly.  Keep the valves in spec and the air filter clean.  Go ride.

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Your oil screen looks good for a first oil change.  The bike will start better after it is broken in a bit.  Set your idle to 2200rpm.  The little bit of smoke when cold is normal.  Let it warm up and ride the crap out of it. 

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