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Hey, 
Looking for some Wiring Harness, Connections and Installation assistance for installing a Tusk Universal Under the Fender LED Taillight with Brake Light on a Husqvarna 2017 TX300

The UTFLight comes with a plastic connector that would work with the tusk enduro lighting kit which i'll be removing so that I can plug into the stock harness.

I've been told the stock harness is the same as what would be included on the TE Model, minus the actual headlight/taillight being present; which is the case for the headlight wiring . it's all there ready to go.  For the taillight/brakelight however there is a bit more to be done.  There are NO wires running to the rear of the bike or within the SubFrame as some have noted

I'll need to run to existing wires, and could use some guidance for which connectors are needed, if a supplementary harness is required(if so which one) and which wires to connect to on the existing harness.  There is very limited info in the manual (for either bike: TE/TX) or complete color harness diagram with info and connector information anywhere that I could find.
I also picked up the Tusk Brake Switch Banjo bolt for the Brembo brakes (two wire, bullet connectors) - https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/docs/Brake switch instructions.pdf 

On the Brake side under the front/bottom of gas tank near radiator there is an existing connector (I think for radiator fan) and from it, two unused wires, I would say for tapping into the existing harness.  1 Solid Brown, 1 Yellow/Red - 

Shifter side, near the bottom rear of tank I found taped up cylinder style connector (Someone can enlighten me) i think switch wires ? maybe some terminator,  each with the same color wire in as out.  One is Gray/Black and the other White/Black

Under the cdi box is a three plug connector with two wires, 1 Brown and 1 White, third unused- i was hopeful this could be the tail light connector but am unsure

Help on harness, connector names /types and setup is very much appreciated

 

 

CDI_Connector2Wires.jpg

FanConnector_AuxTap.jpg

SwitchWiring(Question).jpg

TX300_Hub.jpg

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Posted (edited)

I am posting the wiring diagram for the 2017 XCW which should be the same as for the TE.  I just bought a TE and am planning to make it street legal by adding a high beam, stop lamp and horn.  While I'm in there, I also plan to wire in an ignition key that will cut power to the starter and prevent kick starting as well.  I haven't torn into the bike yet, so I can't yet help you with wiring locations, but the diagrams will probably answer most of your questions and give you some confidence in what you're looking at on your bike as the wire color codes are common.  The euro EXC's will have more colored wires with blinkers and such.

I plan to do my job without any aftermarket wiring harnesses.  I plan to just cut, splice, solder into the wires I want to use.  After I do the job, I will try to post a DIY tutorial with more info.  The pics below is my pre-work before starting the job to help ensure I am prepared.  I now have the necessary switches, horn, etc to start the job.. just gotta find the time.  You'll note that with a TE or XCW, you shouldn't need to buy a new headlight or bulb, nor new taillight or brake light... the stock units have two filaments to give high beam and stop lamp function, just like on the EXC's.  We just need to wire in the switches to the correct circuits/connectors.

First pic below explains that brown wires are a common ground wire throughout the bike.  Tap into this anywhere for a good ground.

Yellow wires originate from the stator and provide 12v AC power, hot only when the engine is running.  These feed the headlamp and taillight, as well as feeding into the voltage regulatory/rectifier.

White with red stripe wires originate out of the voltage regulator and carry 12v DC hot at all times.  It is hot all the time because it goes into a fuse to the battery as the charging circuit, but since there is no shut-off switch to the battery, it is hot from the battery all the time. 

The second pic shows that the headlamp switch feeds yellow wire AC power to the taillight, the low beam on the headlamp, and a "parking light" which I think is the extra bulb just below the headlamp bulb.  Pin 3 in the taillight is power for the taillight.  Pin 1 in the taillight is available for the brake light function.  Switch power into that pin to activate the stop lamp.  I have drawn red lines to show how I plan to splice new stop lamp switches into the white with red stripe wire to give power to the brake light.  One switch can go on the front brake lever perch, and the other can be a pressure switch into the banjo bolt on the rear brake master cylinder.  To be honest, to keep the job simple, I will likely only wire in a front brake switch.

I have drawn more red lines to show how I plan to wire in the high beam circuit.  I show two small red lines to indicate that I will CUT the low beam wire in that area.  When the high beam is on, I want the low beam to be off, otherwise both filaments will be energized at the same time, and I worry this might overheat the bulb and cause it to burn out faster.  I haven't looked at it closely enough to see if it is an LED (in which case it might run cooler), or if it is halogen (in which case it gets pretty hot).  Standard practice is to energize only one or the other.. not both at the same time.. so this is what I plan to do.  The new high beam switch will allow the low beam to operate in one switch position, and then the other switch position will shut off the low beam and energize the high beam.  The green wire going into the headlamp is the low beam circuit, and the blue wire is for the high beam.

Also shown in pic 2 is the unused power and ground wires.  These can be used to power a radiator fan, a horn or other accessories like a phone/GPS powerpoint or trickle charger.  In my case, I plan to install some of these accessories using switched power from the ignition key to prevent battery drain.

I am including the third pic for completeness, which covers the rest of the wiring on the bike.  You don't need it for just wiring up the brake light and high beam, but I will use some of these circuits when I wire in my ignition key switch (tapping into the kill switch circuit).  Hopefully this is helpful !!

Wiring p1.jpg

Wiring_p2.JPG

Wiring p3.jpg

Edited by Brent72
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I forgot to mention why I chose to splice the brake lamp into the white/red wire instead of the power wire coming out of the headlamp switch.  If you tap into the wire coming out of the headlamp switch, then the brake light won't work when the headlight switch is off, and also won't work when the engine is off.  I want the brake light to work even when the engine is off, and when the headlamp is switched off.  If the engine dies for whatever reason while I'm on the road, the brake light will still function as I'm coming to a stop with the engine off. 

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Right on, this does help.  I also found out the connector under the CDI switch is for the taillight on the TX300
This should be a bit easier than initially anticipated for my application as It should not require having to tap into any other part of the wiring harness
I'll try and document so that I can post some steps, tools and parts used once it's all finished

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Thank you.... I just got an '18 TE300. I've been looking for this info. I plan to wire my brake switch hot ALWAYS also. I prefer

22 hours ago, Brent72 said:

I forgot to mention why I chose to splice the brake lamp into the white/red wire instead of the power wire coming out of the headlamp switch.  If you tap into the wire coming out of the headlamp switch, then the brake light won't work when the headlight switch is off, and also won't work when the engine is off.  I want the brake light to work even when the engine is off, and when the headlamp is switched off.  If the engine dies for whatever reason while I'm on the road, the brake light will still function as I'm coming to a stop with the engine off. 

a mechanical brake switch, I went with the K&S version.

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I mentioned in another thread.  just thought I'd mention here again.  In stock form, the DC side only provides 30 amps.    Just keep track of your consumption.

I'm not sure of the headlight, but I think it would be in the order of 35-55watts if you go DC.   If the thought is only keeping the Tail Light hot all the time then you're more than likely ok.

Fan runs at 30+ W.  

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Thanks for the info.  The stock taillight/brake light uses LED's and I expect they draw very little current.  The taillight is on the AC side.  I think I will still put my brake light on the DC side so that it can be functional all the time, even with engine off.  Being LED's and only drawing power when I'm actually on the brake, the power consumption should be nearly nothing.

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True.  Are you planning on keeping the headlight AC? 

You'll need a switch for the taillight for sure.  And if you want to switch the AC headlight you'll need another switch.   Or use a single switch and 2 relays. 

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Ooooh just caught what your trying to do.  Split the tail light assembly into 2 separate circuits.  Tail/running light AC and brake switched to DC.   Yep.  Makes sense.

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You got it... taillight on AC and can be switched off along with the headlight stock switch.  Brake light off DC powered thru new switch hot all the time.  I will post back on here if it works the way i intend.

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tackled this over the weekend and successfully installed the Tusk Under Fender L.E.D. tail/brake light with the Banjo bolt switch on the tx300 (Basic AC setup when engine running)

I did have a mistep with the wiring initially...was getting mixed behaviors for what i now understand as a grounding issue I unknowingly kept including because of mistakenly labeling stock harness wiring one wire for tail and the other brake ..."doh".  behaviors from no lights to all lights and every combination but the right one.  In the end, here's how i got it working correct

Under fender brake/tail light - https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/docs/Tail light instructions.pdf

3Wires: Ground = Yellow/ Brakelight = Red / Tail light = Black

Banjo Bolt Switch = 2 Wires (doesn't matter which ones you choose to use -  See https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/docs/Brake switch instructions.pdf 

I Started by cutting the bullet connectors and stock adapter from both the banjo bolt and tail light and then

- Took the Red brake light wire and using a twist terminal, connect it to one of the banjo bolt wires/ shrink tube &/or tape it up

- Yellow ground wire and connect a ring terminal bolt to ground bolt (i chose to use the negative on the battery, but you could tie this into the brown wire located under/near the cdi box)

- with the Black tail light wire, using a butt connector wire this with the second banjo bolt wire in one end, with an additional piece of wire on the out end, connected to the white stock harness wire found under/near the cdi box(reference the very first photo in the initial post at the top: 

On 14/03/2018 at 8:58 PM, DdrossyD said:

Under the cdi box is a three plug connector with two wires, 1 Brown and 1 White, third unused- i was hopeful this could be the tail light connector but am unsure

 

 the white = hot / brown = GROUND - (the brown was my grounding issue, shorting out when using this ..which in my case had initially grounded to the battery..could have used it here instead and not have the problems i did.... )

Cleaned it up, shrink tube, cable tys and jobs done.    Hope this helps 

with this setup the front head light and three way switch for high/low and off functionality.  where off will also kill the rear tail/brake light as well as front headlight

 

tx300_BanjoBolt.jpg

tx300BanjoSwitchMeetsTuskTaillightWiring.jpg

tx300_LightInstallOn.jpg

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