Posted March 18 So Been rebuilding my bike and the rubber mallet just "wouldn't cut it"!!!! I had to pry managed to sand down it all looked flat but this seems a bit gappy. This is only on the outer edge but I can help worry this is going to leak or get shit into the engine. Any help or advice would be awesome thanks Like this 1 person likes this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted March 18 QUite a bit of meat between there and the bore - if its dead flat and torqued down it wont be an issue Like this 2 people like this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted March 18 Why’d you do that?!!! LOL Kidding, I’ve made plenty of mistakes. Sometimes the rubber mallet just isn’t good enough. The dowel pin on that corner is sometimes tough to pull off of. Hopefully you replaced the dowel pin with a fresh non corroded one. I like to put a little grease on mine to help later. Make sure you’re pulling it up perfectly even all around. You can bolt the hanger plates back on and use that to lever up on a little, can sometimes get it lifted on the back. Be super careful if you’re wedging or prying in between the mating surfaces. Run it and keep an eye on it. Watch the coolant level constantly until you’re sure it’s not leaking through the head gasket. If you have any leaks you can try doping it up with some high temp RTV sealant. If it’s still leaking then you’ll have to spend some money. Like this 1 person likes this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted March 18 Thanks guys it was just that side that seemed to be welded down hated my self for prying. Will keep an eye on it maybe even some high temple silicone? If it does fail what are my option aluminium welding maybe? Like this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted March 18 6 minutes ago, ashfmxuk said: Thanks guys it was just that side that seemed to be welded down hated my self for prying. Will keep an eye on it maybe even some high temple silicone? If it does fail what are my option aluminium welding maybe? If you have to go that far with this let a reputable machine shop make that decision. Those surfaces have very precise specs so you’ll never want to sand them. Let them help you decide if it’s repairable and if so what technique or if they’ll need replacing. But try the other recommendations first if you’re wanting to avoid spending any money. Like this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted March 19 First off, forget the high temp RTV silicone. Proper stuff to use is ThreeBond, YamaBond or the Honda equivalent. If it is just dings and gouges from the pry bar, a light file to clean them up will do, use the gasket with no sealer. I see lots of sanding shavings on the engine case. You didn't happen to drop any of that stuff into the inside of the engine, did you? Like this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted March 19 11 hours ago, sbest said: First off, forget the high temp RTV silicone. Proper stuff to use is ThreeBond, YamaBond or the Honda equivalent. If it is just dings and gouges from the pry bar, a light file to clean them up will do, use the gasket with no sealer. I see lots of sanding shavings on the engine case. You didn't happen to drop any of that stuff into the inside of the engine, did you? Yeah correction, I use Hondabond which seems to be really good stuff too and it’s what the service manual states. I’m so used to using the red stuff in auto mechanics (which by the way has does some amazing things for me). Like this 1 person likes this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted March 19 thanks man. No i had the bottom end all sealed up I am going to run it with out to make sure then seal just for my peace of mind. Hondabond looking for some now thanks Like this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted March 19 Threebond, Yamabond, Hondabond - all the same Like this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted March 19 (edited) 28 minutes ago, S.O.A.N.Z said: Threebond, Yamabond, Hondabond - all the same ktmbond is lighter,more powerful, and features electric start applicator. Even with electric applicator, it is still lighter than the manual applicator japbonds. Edited March 19 by RawbW Like this 4 people like this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted March 19 (edited) 2 hours ago, RawbW said: ktmbond is lighter,more powerful, and features electric start applicator. Even with electric applicator, it is still lighter than the manual applicator japbonds. Yes, and its quite well known that improper bonding causes people to MAKE STUFF UP while they desperately look for approval! (which ironically, I just made up...) Edited March 19 by sbest Like this 1 person likes this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted March 19 29 minutes ago, sbest said: Yes, and its quite well known that improper bonding causes people to MAKE STUFF UP while they desperately look for approval! (which ironically, I just made up...) I’m looking for a bond for my cases and in my life, if I could yamabond my life together that would be great Like this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted March 20 On 3/19/2018 at 10:44 AM, ashfmxuk said: thanks man. No i had the bottom end all sealed up I am going to run it with out to make sure then seal just for my peace of mind. Hondabond looking for some now thanks I think Pro Honda makes different temp ranges on these products so you’ll want the Hondabond HT (High Temp) for that portion of the motor. All the major online dirt bike part websites sell it. Like this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Posted March 24 Honda bond sets up faster than yamabond, too fast. Rubber mallet will work if you get serious about things. Takes a while, penetrating oil and heat can help too. Like this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
