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Klr600 retarded timing

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Hi guys i recently bought a klr600 thats was running but had issues the guy i bought it off had fitted a manual timing chain adjuster but it had jumped a tooth and would hardly run i fixed that but it seems like the timing is retarded any one had this issue not sure what it uses as a pick up or if it has an auto advance. Cheers 

I also own a 81 xl185s, 81 xr250, and a 83 xr350. Cheers

 

Edited by Josh Munn

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Any help would be awesome
Any one have any ideas on this cheers pretty sure the 650 would be the same. Cheers

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setup is the same as the 650. exhaust cam lobes point forward, intake lobes point back. with piston at TDC the lines on the cam gears should lay parallel to the parting line for the valve cover. its never perfect, but should be close, and moving the chain one tooth looks obviously worse. at TDC there should be a sideways "T" in the the inspection hole (left side engine cover, above the center of the crank). be sure to check valve clearance too

 

 

camchaintiming.1.jpg

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All of the Kl Klr 250,600,650 have a pick up coil at magneto, all timing is done by CDI box.  The kl600 and klr250 actually use the same CDI box.  You fixed the cam timing?  Why do you think the ignition timing is off?  Is very rare that a CDI ignition will fire out of time, if things are not correct they usually will not fire at all.  

mike mike    

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Gets hot very quick and sounds retarded at idle doesnt rev up freely either when i got it the timing was out by one tooth on the intake fixed that but omly made starting easier any suggestions much appreciated

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You can check the flywheel key, if sheared of the flywheel can spin on crank.  I would check my carb for clean and proper jetting.  Also check for air leaks in intake system.  Did you check valve clearance when you did cam timing?  

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You can check the flywheel key, if sheared of the flywheel can spin on crank.  I would check my carb for clean and proper jetting.  Also check for air leaks in intake system.  Did you check valve clearance when you did cam timing?  
Clearances were good thinking carb may be to lean also maybe the slide isnt lifting

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as mentioned... check the key in the rotor (flywheel) they have been known to shear if the rotor nut torque is loose. the key can also be pushed out during installation of the rotor. if that happens, its only a matter of time before it moves. you should be able to see the end of the key in both of the slots (rotor and crank). there are some tricks to the installation and the torquing procedure, so if you need to re-do the rotor & key let us know.

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as mentioned... check the key in the rotor (flywheel) they have been known to shear if the rotor nut torque is loose. the key can also be pushed out during installation of the rotor. if that happens, its only a matter of time before it moves. you should be able to see the end of the key in both of the slots (rotor and crank). there are some tricks to the installation and the torquing procedure, so if you need to re-do the rotor & key let us know.
Pulled the flywheel off the other day was still there some said that maybe the coil is starting to fail? Not sure

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there are ohm readings for the coil & also some voltage readings when it cranks. the manual should have those numbers. as for re-installing the rotor (flywheel).... I paint the end of the key yellow so I can see it after it's installed. put a couple punch marks on the side of the key to help it stay in the keyway better because as you have probably seen, its kinda loose in the groove. you are supposed to use a new bolt each time, but many have been re-used. up to you. the torque given in the book is too high for some bikes (130 ft lbs). the 600 and early 650s suffered rotor drag at top torque, so the back yard procedure (that works) is to torque in increments and test for indications of drag. you go until you start to drag, then back it off and re-torque to just below whatever that was. anything over 100 is good. I got that from the old (new defunct) Eldon Carl site which is now Top gun.

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