Jump to content

Which front tire

Recommended Posts

4 hours ago, Kinger317 said:


Just for Haha's try it with your weight back and not so planted on the seat. Increase your speed if you need to.

And/or try keeping your eyes further through the turn and not directly in front of your tire.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One bad habit I know I have is looking directly in front of me. The last time I was at the track I made a conscious effort to look to the end of the turn, and it seemed to help. It's a hard habit to break, but I will keep working on it.

I will be researching the plethora of tire recommendations you guys gave me. Thanks a bunch. I also raised my forks 5mm last night so tomorrow I will see how it does. Hopefully by the following weekend I will have a new tire. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would reccomend the pirelli scorpion xc tire. I ran a lot of different brands and I seemed to like the pirelli especially in muddier conditions.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 hours ago, nicad said:

Does addition of the Fatty automatically go with raising the fork tubes due to the increased height of the tire?

No.

For sure, absolutely, no doubt about it, put on a new front tire and tube! Then ride it and see what you think. You may need to do nothing more. Try to only do one change at a time so you can see what works and what doesn't. Also, the fatty might not be the right tire for where you ride. I ride only off road from wide open desert to tight rocky, rooted and rutted single track and it works for me. If you're only riding MX-tracks, or a single MX-track, another tire might be better. If you're only riding on tracks, you might try asking the other's what they like and works best for that track.

And......

Regarding Motox367: Are you serious?

"Doesn't matter what tire you're using in a rut." "Those bikes turn and ride ruts great with bald tires".

This is good advice - "Try looking to the end of rut and ahead soon as you heading in"

Edited by jcshew
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, jcshew said:

No.

For sure, absolutely, no doubt about it, put on a new front tire and tube! Then ride it and see what you think. You may need to do nothing more. Try to only do one change at a time so you can see what works and what doesn't. Also, the fatty might not be the right tire for where you ride. I ride only off road from wide open desert to tight rocky, rooted and rutted single track and it works for me. If you're only riding MX-tracks, or a single MX-track, another tire might be better. If you're only riding on tracks, you might try asking the other's what they like and works best for that track.

And......

Regarding Motox367: Are you serious?

"Doesn't matter what tire you're using in a rut." "Those bikes turn and ride ruts great with bald tires".

This is good advice - "Try looking to the end of rut and ahead soon as you heading in"

I already bought the tire (and a cheater rear tire) and am about to install it with Tubliss. Will pretty well only be riding single track. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, nicad said:

I already bought the tire (and a cheater rear tire) and am about to install it with Tubliss. Will pretty well only be riding single track. 

Fat tire Shinko M216 90/100/21 and Cheater Hybrid R505 110/100/18 are in my basket waiting for a purchase. They look like nice tires, so I was going to throw them on the 125. Even tho it is suposed to be 80/100/21 and 100/90/18 (19). Seams you can only get rear 2.15 rims, and not 1.85. Going to be a mountain trail bike anyway for a while in AZ.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, 2 STROKE YZ DOC said:

Seams you can only get rear 2.15 rims, and not 1.85.

Early WR250F's had 1.85" x 18" wheels, not sure of it's accuracy but a recently posted chart indicated 2001 up to 2014.

 

Edited by mlatour
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, mlatour said:

Early WR250F's had 1.85" x 18" wheels, not sure of it's accuracy but a recently posted chart indicated 2001 up to 2014.

 

I am talking aftermarket...

Warp 9 wheel set in blue are on ordered. Tried to get them in 1.85/18 and they don't sell them. So I'll live with the 2.15/18 and run with it.

They had red spokes/nipples or SS nipples at 139.00-159.00 a set. That is 24 bucks + more than the rim, so I passed and will do tusk black on white hub, w/blue rim. Also, the hub is already powder coated and warp 9 spokes are a larger gauge than OEM/tusk and I would have needed to drill the hubs prior to PC incase I get chipping. 

Edited by 2 STROKE YZ DOC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, 2 STROKE YZ DOC said:

I am talking aftermarket...

Warp 9 wheel set in blue are on ordered. Tried to get them in 1.85/18 and they don't sell them. So I'll live with the 2.15/18 and run with it.

They had red spokes/nipples or SS nipples at 139.00-159.00 a set. That is 24 bucks + more than the rim, so I passed and will do tusk black on white hub, w/blue rim. Also, the hub is already powder coated and warp 9 spokes are a larger gauge than OEM/tusk and I would have needed to drill the hubs prior to PC incase I get chipping. 

Went to the track today to see what difference raising the forks made and I can now say with confidence that looking ahead through the turn made the biggest difference, hands down. If I looked right in front of my tire, I was almost guaranteed to push out of the rut and loose it. When I looked ahead, I was almost always able to keep it in the rut. I'm also gonna get a new set of tires before I go out again. 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


×