X-Pro 125cc Thoughts, Impressions, Adventures and Mods (lots of pics)

[Explorer1987Nate]

That is great news! Makes perfect sense...LOL

So, it's the inside foam (gray/black) that gets oiled, not the red part that says UNI? 

 

[dirtbkr188]

The choice is yours to make, I don't oil the outer foam, it's easier to clean the dried out mud at the end of the day. If you ride where it's wet and always a lot of water, you might want to oil the outer foam, as well. It makes it that much more water-resistant

[Explorer1987Nate]

I will oil it the same as you do.  That seems the most reasonable way to use the new UNI filter.  Now, I just got to get one for my wife's bike too (DB-X20 X-Pro by X-Motos), pretty soon.

 

 

 

Edited April 11, 2018 by Explorer1987Nate

[Explorer1987Nate]

So, a little more about how I modified the skid plate to be so much easier to mount/remove.

It used to somehow slip in between the frame and motor (apparently) using two slots in the skid plate, but it would not go back together, which is why I did this modification

(This took a few hours of work to finish up)

 

1) had to weld a strip of 1/8" piece of Mild Steel onto the end of the skid plate to give the skid plate just a little more length.  It needed more length to be able to drill holes into.

2) I had to notch the metal strip because it would hit two portions of the frame.  I just kept  notching and test fitting until it was satisfactory.

3) I had to measure (and drill) the holes through the new piece of metal.

4) I had to get new bolts.  I went to Ace Hardware and picked up some 40mm socket head bolts to replace the 30mm bolts that were now too short. Also got a few washers to help with spacing.

5) I painted it, let dry and then bolted it up.

 

The result, is a solidly mounted skid plate that easily bolts right up, and is more like it should be IMO. 

 

 

 

Edited April 11, 2018 by Explorer1987Nate
Add pics

[Explorer1987Nate]

I made a way to keep an eye on the temperature of my bike.  It even matches my fork caps.

 

 

 

 

Edited April 13, 2018 by Explorer1987Nate

[Explorer1987Nate]

Here's another pic or two of the Temp Gauge I made.  It's exactly the same length as the stock oil dip stick too.

Edited April 13, 2018 by Explorer1987Nate

[Explorer1987Nate]

Here is a little vid I made of the DB-X29 in action

I have other videos about it as well.

 

 

 

[Explorer1987Nate]

So, I have yet to install the new air filter, but plan to soon. 

I did install a Mikuni VM22 carb on this bike, which is really pretty awesome.  It came stock with a PZ-26 carb, which works fine, but it seemed to cut out or "miss" a little when I went out to the OHV park (a little higher elevation).  Not bad, really other than that, and it did seem to run the bike a bit quieter, it seems.

Also, there is the fact that it came with a version of the PZ-26 (EPA carb), and does not have the ability to remove the float bowl for maintenance or tuning, etc.

Here are some pics of the carbs, laid out, and some installation pics.

Edited April 28, 2018 by Explorer1987Nate

[Explorer1987Nate]

In these pics the removable float bowl can be seen on the VM22.

Edited April 28, 2018 by Explorer1987Nate

[Explorer1987Nate]

Here it is midway installed...The throttle cable/Slide spring inside the carb   fought me a bit, but nothing too tough.

There is an enrichment adjustment lever on the VM22 compared to the traditional choke lever set up on the PZ26.

[Explorer1987Nate]

Here's the VM22 installed...It doesn't have the 3 settings the PZ26 had for the choke. It only has 2 settings on the enrichner (off and on).

[Explorer1987Nate]

So I really need to start using the new air filter on the X-Pro, so I opened the package tonight. There are no oiling instructions, which is okay, because I plan to oil just the outside of the black portion of the filter, like dirtbkr188 said.

Here's a pic

[Explorer1987Nate]

The problem isn't so much that there are no instructions. It is that there is this warning you can see in the picture. Not too sure what to make of that.

Am I supposed to clean the rubber portion first, before I use it?

Am I supposed to oil it first, then clean the rubber portion with solvent of some sort, before installing?

I am unsure, therefore I have done nothing with this air filter as of yet.

BTW, I will post another picture later where you can actually see the black foam portion inside the red outer foam sleeve.

[dirtbkr188]

Pick up a can of the PJ1 foam air filter oil and spray it liberally all over the inner filter, then insert the filter in a Zip-Loc freezer bag and " work" the oil into the foam, as if you were lightly wringing out a wash cloth. Remove the filter from the bag and apply a second light coating of oil, pat it with a paper towel, and let it dry for one hour before using it. You then spray some contact cleaner on a paper towel to clean any oil from the black boot where it attaches to the carb. The filter may slip off the carb if you don't.

[Explorer1987Nate]

4 hours ago, dirtbkr188 said:

Pick up a can of the PJ1 foam air filter oil and spray it liberally all over the inner filter, then insert the filter in a Zip-Loc freezer bag and " work" the oil into the foam, as if you were lightly wringing out a wash cloth. Remove the filter from the bag and apply a second light coating of oil, pat it with a paper towel, and let it dry for one hour before using it. You then spray some contact cleaner on a paper towel to clean any oil from the black boot where it attaches to the carb. The filter may slip off the carb if you don't.

This is excellent info.  I appreciate the details on how to do this, and it will help me get this done, and could help others that want to know too.

Thanks!

[Explorer1987Nate]

These are the pictures I mentioned I would post where you can actually see the black foam portion inside the red outer foam sleeve.

 

Edited April 30, 2018 by Explorer1987Nate

[Explorer1987Nate]

I have not had time to prep the new air filter for installation yet (want to soon though) but I did round up my supplies I am going to use to do it.

I have had this stuff for a couple years, but I am going to use it anyway, in lieu of buying some new PJ1 Foam Air Filter Oil (only because I already have this stuff). 

 

Edited May 2, 2018 by Explorer1987Nate

[Explorer1987Nate]

This CRC QD Electronic Cleaner I am going to use in lieu of "Contact Cleaner" to clean the air filter's rubber snout to be free of oil, so it mounts snug and tight on the carb (again because I already have it)..................Unless, it's advised not to use it for some reason??

Edited May 2, 2018 by Explorer1987Nate

[dirtbkr188]

You might as well try it, and see if it works for you.

BTW, I've found that wearing surgical gloves (that you can buy in a box of 100 for around $8) makes handling an oiled filter much easier, especially when cleaning the boot with a paper towel in the other hand.

[CRF James]

If I’m not mistaken, the hose that runs into the top of your current air filter is your crankcase breather hose and is routed into the top of the air filter to meet EPA CARB standards. Basically it directs any oil blown out of the engine case into your carb to be burned off.

Follow it back as dirtbkr188 recommends, but if I am correct you may not want to it block it off. I would simply just reroute the end of the hose down between the back of the engine and the swingarm axle unless you plan on installing a catch can. Another option would be cap the end with a breather valve or small cone filter.