New DR350, several different questions!

Hi guys! I have just bought my 1996 DR 350SE and I'm super happy about it! This will be my second moto after Aprilia RS 125 :)

I'm preparing it for 'technical inspection' on Tuesday and I hope you could help me with several questions that I have:

1) The front light was disconnected and I had to sort out the wiring. Once connected, I noticed that even with the high beam off the indicator is slightly lit (see the attached picture).
Shout it be like this? 

2) When I was connecting the front light I noted two wires connected to nowhere. I traced them back to the clutch lever. Any ideas what they are for and should I fix it?

3) Do you use fully or semi synthetic engine oil?

4) I have to connect turn signals in order to have the motorcycle road legal, but I didn't see any mounts nor any loose wires. Where should I attach and connect the turn signals?

Thanks guys in advance! ^^

high beam.jpg

I have a 96 DR350S as well so I should be able to help with most of this.

1.) My high beam indicator was always partially lit before I tore my bike apart. The indicator light is lit by your negative bus and a yellow wire which puts power to the high beams from your high beam switch. My guess is the bike being 22 years old, the switch has worn some and the contacts are close enough to act more like a resistor and you get a small amount of VDC to the indicator light as well. I wouldn't worry about it though.

2.) Take a picture of the wires going to the clutch. It may be for the neutral position switch, but that should only be one wire then a connection to ground on the other side of the switch.

3.) As for oil, here is my best advice. Use what the manufacturer recommends which is SAE 10w-40 Suzuki small engine oil. It's not expensive at all. And here's why you should use it. Your engine oil, is also your transmission oil and the manufacturer has oil formulated specifically for this purpose and the needs of the engine.

4.) Your turn signals may be a slightly more complicated situation. If you have a model that was factory designated as an offroad model then the turn signal wires may be taped up with the harness. The route for turn signal power is as such. From an orange and black wire off of your rectifier which eventually ties into an orange wire. It continues as an orange wire which is basically your common positive and goes to a ton of stuff but eventually makes it to the turn signal relay which if I remember correctly is an orange relay on the right side directly behind the heat sync for your rectifier. From the relay it becomes a light blue wire which goes to the six conductor quick connect plug for your left grip control assembly. It will go through your turn signal switch and come out as black for the left turn signal and light green for your right turn signal (there is dark green, light green, and green with a yellow stripe on the harness, don't get them mixed up.) From there is goes back into the same six conductor plug that the light blue from the relay came in, and then split going to both the front and rear turn signals. If you have these then it will most likely be in a quick connect that is paired with a wire that is black with a white stripe as it will go through the quick connect, to the lamp, and the negative bus is the black with a white stripe.

I hope that wasn't too hard to follow, I'm not home right now and am typing all of this on my phone.

Is the wire labeled neutral indicator switch the one you traced the two spares to?


Thanks Number1DAW for reply. 

The neutral indicator works though once engaged. Ill take samo photos of the cable.


As for turn signals, there is turn switch on the handlebar and turn indicator on the dashboard, so I reckoned the model was with turn signals from the factory. It be great though if it weren't, then I wouldn't need to install them ^^ I tried searching for S model without mirrors and turn signals, but without luck. I'll attempt the installation today :)

Sometimes an offroad and a street legal version of a bike will have the exact same controls and harness because it cuts down on production costs from the beginning by not having to design two sets of parts, test two sets of parts, produce two sets of parts then install them. By using all the same parts then just leaving off turn signals then they save tons of money. 

Here's a color coded version of the wiring diagram that I've compared to what's in my manual and it all looks correct. Everything is color coded in the harness so if the wires are clean then you can figure out what they're for.


Awesome stuff! Thanks Number1DAW. With this I have finally sorted the wires i need. I noticed that the relay was broken so I changed it. Now the front left signals works perfectly (I haven't done the rear signals yet), BUT something is wrong with the front right signal. It's lit all the time, and once I actually turn it on it remains lit but the lights of speedo and rev counter start blinking instead... :D (though the turn indicator on the dash does not blink either). 

After 2 seconds of that light show, everything went off and nothing was working... Luckily it was the fuse, but the relay was dead too. Maybe that's how the first one got broken. Sooo any ideas? :thinking:

My bet is whoever sold you the bike tried to do some rewiring and screwed it up pretty bad and just tried to make back whatever money they put into it. You're best bet is to groom the front end and make sure every wire go to exactly what it's supposed to. If that all checks out find pull the seat off and the CDI unit is inside a rubber sleeve that slips onto the frame and a nipple on the top of the downtube that the upper shock attached to. Pull that whole unit out and take the rectifier off, (that's the thing that has a heat sink attached to it on the right side of the bike right next to the CDI, and make sure all of the wiring there is hooked up properly. My bet is someone in the past screwed something up and something is shorted out or hooked up wrong. Pretty much the only way the dash lights would all start blinking.

I've put up a simple wiring diagram for a 250 that i made myself - colours should be the same as the 350. It does away with the indicators totally. If you got an aftermarket switch for you handlebars without an indicator switch it could be argued that the bike never had them 😉

Hi guys, with your help I had finally sorted out the wiring (the degree of inginuity I saw was beyond scope 😅) and went out for the 'technical inspection'. 

Unfortunately, I didn't pass because the front light wasn't bright enough. I suppose a more powerful bulb will do the trick?

The worst part is that while I was driving I got to know the bike more, but for the worse. After 5km I began to struggle to find neutral gear. If I wouldn't ingage it in my first attempt, I would be stuck in my first gear until I would drive again (if I would turn the engine off, I would be able to find the neutral just fine tho). I'll probably need to split the engind... Any initial thoughts of the cause for this issue?

Also, I noticed a high pitch knocking sound which got loader after 40km. I suspect I'll have to rebuild top end as well :/

The clutch issue, I've heard tons of people say that having trouble finding neutral is just a DR thing. I've always had a little bit of trouble finding it, but once I figured it out I managed to find it pretty easily. Without hearing the knocking I wouldn't know. But here is my best bet on how to find it. With the bike warmed up and in neutral find where the knocking starts (an RPM) and see if it does it at the RPM in other gears as well as neutral. If so, you're looking at something in the top end. If not, something in the transmission.

Good point. I'll take a look at the whole engine anyways just to see what's happening there.

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