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Bent rim advice

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3 hours ago, crypto666 said:

$250?  How about $130?  Tusk rim and spoke kit.  Yes, they work just as well as Excell or DID.  In fact, stay away from Excel spline drive nipples.  Your mom didn't have spline drive nipples, and neither should you.  

I wouldn't spend the money on a tubliss and put it on that. 

What is wrong with spline drive nipples?  I have built a few set of wheels with these and never had an issue.

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Just now, mikedabike said:

What is wrong with spline drive nipples?  I have built a few set of wheels with these and never had an issue.

They are aluminum.

They are proprietary.

They strip easier than square.

 

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I fixed my rear rim by using a press and a 2” X 6” piece of steel. The plate of steel was placed lengthwise with the bent part of the rim in the middle. I slowly worked the press pushing down at smaller increments until the dent was pressed out. Just take your time. My rim has been fine for two seasons. 

 

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2 hours ago, signal15 said:

It's a 2013. Nothing wrong with the front.

Why is pounding it better than a press? Pounding aluminum hardens it, and it's far from precise. With the press, I have precision control over what's happening. Also, someone mentioned heating won't do anything. I find that hard to believe. 250-300F makes it bend like a warm chocolate bar if you use a little leverage or a press. I used to be an aluminum welder, and also built jigs for bending rectangular aluminum tubing into curved shapes... But that was 25+ years ago.

Heat will help prevent cracking, and it does help it bend easier...but you don't want to get it too hot or you affect the tempering/ageing etc. Just heat it to a couple of hundred degrees if you can measure it, or just enough for any residue to start smoking off. (you probably know this already)

A press will work fine. Use a curved mandrel.

Best thing I've found is a Nylon hammer, much harder than rubber, so it is more effective, and doesn't mark the ally like a steel hammer will.

As it's a rear I'd have no issue repairing it, though as they also aren't cast there wouldn't be any issue repairing a front either, if you use some (un)common sense.

I've been repairing wheels (My job) for around 20 years and I haven't killed anyone yet ;)

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It can be saved. I fixed one not quite s bad but it turned out great. Secure wheel on a tire stand or other, heat the inside lip and with a LARGE crescent wrench slowly work the bend. You may have to re-heat it a couple times and have some patience but the big crescent gives you amazing leverage. 

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I doubt tubliss will seal correctly with this dent. They won’t seal if you move or refit the tire because of the marks left by the rim lock. 

Tubliss is an awesome system in my opinion and allows low pressures without trapping a tube

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Ive got those better using a 12" crecent wrench. Let air out, break bead get the wrench in and pry out. Dont go all from the middle, better if you work it from a few place.   Easier on 6000 series alum rims used on most japanese bike. Harder on 7000 euro rim. 

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Its dented all the way to the spoke holes, could be straightened for tubes but Tubliss “no-way”........

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1 hour ago, Mark-us-B said:

Its dented all the way to the spoke holes, could be straightened for tubes but Tubliss “no-way”........

It can be. A bit of patience and the right approach and you can get it pretty much as good as new. I work on a .5mm max runout, which is often less than new wheels.

I do mostly car wheels admittedly, but I've done a few road and offroad bike and quad wheels too.

Edited by DEATH_INC.

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7 hours ago, DEATH_INC. said:

I've been repairing wheels (My job) for around 20 years and I haven't killed anyone yet ;)

But your name.....

Sorry- couldn't resist :)

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10 hours ago, signal15 said:

It's a 2013. Nothing wrong with the front.

...... Also, someone mentioned heating won't do anything......................

Heating will do something, it will make it easy to bend and if the rim is heat treated, heating it enough to soften it will ruin the heat treat, and if you're not heating it enough to ruin the heat treat, the heat won't be enough to soften the aluminum. If you ruin the heat treat, the rim will re-bend in short order. I have used a lead hammer to remove smaller dents from rims successfully. 

Don't heat it.

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Not gonna lie, this discussion is killing me. All of this work to save like 150 bucks? And have something that is basically garbage at the end of it. What could a medical bill cost you? Less than a new decent rim?

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7 hours ago, gscx said:

Not gonna lie, this discussion is killing me. All of this work to save like 150 bucks? And have something that is basically garbage at the end of it. What could a medical bill cost you? Less than a new decent rim?

Unbelievable how a simple fix turns into a complicated one.   It’s people that can’t use there own minds,come up with a plan and fix something.  The phrase, if you want something done right do it yourself!  doesn’t exist anymore.  

Humans are suppose to evolve, get smarter as time goes by.   Nope!!  Doesn’t happen

everyone should have alittle “MacGyver” in them.  Be creative. Solve problems!

 

 

Edited by yz250f 78
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On 4/7/2018 at 7:11 AM, crypto666 said:

$250?  How about $130?  Tusk rim and spoke kit.  Yes, they work just as well as Excell or DID.  In fact, stay away from Excel spline drive nipples.  Your mom didn't have spline drive nipples, and neither should you.  

I wouldn't spend the money on a tubliss and put it on that. 

Now that my friends, is funny & probably true

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On 06/04/2018 at 9:15 PM, signal15 said:

 

I have tubes now, but switching to Tubliss. Will this bend affect anything? It's my understanding that the seal on Tubliss is between the tire and the high pressure tube, not the tire and the rim.

 

If it will affect it, can this be straightened? I was thinking of heating it a bit with the torch and sticking it in the press.

 

If I need a new wheel, are the Tusk Impact wheel kits any good?

 

We yes this did become why complicated and I'm sure you can get all this info on Nuetech's  site but this was the first link I found when I searched "using tubliss with a bent rim"

Clipboard01.jpg.85ee256b456aff86e87a3cd6c6e31eaa.jpg

Then you have lots of suggestions on how to possibly straighten out the ding which I would try first once the tire is off but if you screw it up etc etc, you also have lots of suggestions for rims and nipples :)

Good luck and let us know how it works out for you.

Edited by filterx
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On ‎4‎/‎7‎/‎2018 at 3:22 AM, yz250f 78 said:

That’s not bad.  Take tire off rim and place the lip against a vise in a way that when you hit it with a hammer it’s sturdy and will bend.  It needs to be against something sturdy to where it will form to.  I’ve done it.

heat wont work

2nd that it's not that bad just beat the hell out of it mine was worse don't use heat.

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If I replace the rim only with and Excel one and lace it back up, do I use the stock spoke kit?  Or do I need Excel spokes?

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