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What's in your clutch basket?

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Pretty sure I smoked my clutch over the weekend, or maybe it was just fading a bit because it was hot. Either way, I need a better clutch.

1) What aftermarket friction discs are you running?

2) How do you like them?

3) Would you run them again?

4) If not, what would you try next?

TIA! :cheers:

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I have had and seen otherwise stack height issues with the aftermarket clutch is on this bike the stock this works so well with motors of all build I see no reason to use other than the stock Drive and driven plates

I do use some slightly heavier springs

The stock plates even work well in the slipper clutch And the few installs of a recluse I’m done

Take a good look at the pressure plate as well if it is worn down replace it affects both stack height and contact with the Ater friction plate

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Posted (edited)
9 minutes ago, Erik Marquez said:

I have had and seen otherwise stack height issues with the aftermarket clutch is on this bike the stock this works so well with motors of all build I see no reason to use other than the stock Drive and driven plates.

Quote

 

1) What aftermarket friction discs did you try?

Maybe it was just overheated, but like I said, it is either toast or not handling heat well. I have been using it a LOT for single track and muddy hill climbs, so I'm not too surprised that it is no longer top notch.

Does Suzuki use kevlar on the stock friction plates? Most people with built Harleys tend to run Barnett clutches, which are kevlar.

Maybe I am one of those cases where a Recluse would give me much longer clutch life?

Edited by Bermudacat
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22 minutes ago, Bermudacat said:

1) What aftermarket friction discs did you try?

Maybe it was just overheated, but like I said, it is either toast or not handling heat well. I have been using it a LOT for single track and muddy hill climbs, so I'm not too surprised that it is no longer top notch.

Does Suzuki use kevlar on the stock friction plates? Most people with built Harleys tend to run Barnett clutches, which are kevlar.

Maybe I am one of those cases where a Recluse would give me much longer clutch life?

Had a Rekluse on the Orange bike and liked it aLOT! Only drawback was not being able to bump start it down a hill. Has something to do with the discs slipping and not grabbing. Other than that, I loved it.

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27 minutes ago, Signman606 said:

Had a Rekluse on the Orange bike and liked it aLOT! Only drawback was not being able to bump start it down a hill. Has something to do with the discs slipping and not grabbing. Other than that, I loved it.

I will check into that, thanks!

D100 was brutally  muddy! Glad I opted for some fresh knobs. :smirk:

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Pretty sure I smoked my clutch over the weekend, or maybe it was just fading a bit because it was hot. Either way, I need a better clutch.
1) What aftermarket friction discs are you running?
2) How do you like them?
3) Would you run them again?
4) If not, what would you try next?
TIA! :cheers:

I like OEM.
Ran a Moose before (rebranded DP) no problems.
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Gonna give the Barnett a try.

 

Looked at a couple BETA's today; time to close the DRZ mod spigot and start saving up for a 21st Century bike. :ride:

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Rekluse torq drive core manual. Flat out grabs like nobody's business and feels like a h.p. upgrade. Doesn't fade or slip and has stainless clips over the basket that can be replaced for $15. No more basket notching. The only downside is the crankcase cover doesn't indicate whether it's the gay or straight version of Rekluse.

20180303_185325.jpg

20180303_201945.jpg

20180303_195726.jpg

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52 minutes ago, wr250ish said:

Rekluse torq drive core manual. Flat out grabs like nobody's business and feels like a h.p. upgrade. Doesn't fade or slip and has stainless clips over the basket that can be replaced for $15. No more basket notching. The only downside is the crankcase cover doesn't indicate whether it's the gay or straight version of Rekluse.

Well, I better be open minded if I decide to date one. Pretty sure the DRZ Recluse is nowhere near that trick, so perhaps it's just a eunuch.

The only thing the RE doesn't have is guards, so maybe the Recluse would be a good first mod. ;)

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21 hours ago, Bermudacat said:

1) What aftermarket friction discs did you try?

Maybe it was just overheated, but like I said, it is either toast or not handling heat well. I have been using it a LOT for single track and muddy hill climbs, so I'm not too surprised that it is no longer top notch.

Does Suzuki use kevlar on the stock friction plates? Most people with built Harleys tend to run Barnett clutches, which are kevlar.

Maybe I am one of those cases where a Recluse would give me much longer clutch life?

I really don't know the make up of the friction material. Id guess if it was Kevlar, the marketing department would make a big deal of it, so Id guess no its not.
I think an Auto clutch is reasonably hard on clutch disks.. more or less abusive then how you use your clutch now is just dependent on how you use the clutch.
I know some riders that cant get a season out of a clutch.  I have a 2003 DRZ with the original clutch and put thousands of single track miles, hill climbs, but runs, even a few races from 2 hour scramble to two 24 hour GP's
But my RM250 clutches last only a few seasons 
 

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On 4/9/2018 at 9:16 PM, wr250ish said:

Rekluse torq drive core manual. Flat out grabs like nobody's business and feels like a h.p. upgrade. Doesn't fade or slip and has stainless clips over the basket that can be replaced for $15. No more basket notching. The only downside is the crankcase cover doesn't indicate whether it's the gay or straight version of Rekluse.

20180303_185325.jpg

20180303_201945.jpg

20180303_195726.jpg

I will keep that in mind, thanks. :thumbsup:

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59 minutes ago, braapktmbraap said:

Has Antoine here tried wisco?

Just purchased the last four Barnett P/N 301-35-10012 for the project.

A total of eight are necessary, one 301-35-10013 and seven 301-35-10012.

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Ok, breaks down like this..................................

Barnett drive plates (kevlar) .119 thick

Plates in my bike .117 thick. Well within the .102 limit.

Driven plates (steel) look great and are not warped using a granite counter top as a reference.

Spring height 1.922, outside of the minimum 1.96 specified in the manual.

Can you overheat your springs and make them sag? Yes!

So Race Fans, you've seen it here, in the TT Zone! :smirk:

Won't be needing new drive plates just yet.

 

20180429_101314.jpg

20180429_111015.jpg

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That was similar to my experience with the DRZ clutch,Plenty strong and meaty but the springs get weak after a while and all I did was put in a new set of oem springs and the clutch was great again.

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I was out riding today and my clutch started slipping. Bummer.... I ordered a clutch kit but cancelled when I saw this thread and did some more research. Seems like the fibers and plates are hard to wear out and I don't ride all that much so I'm looking into other causes. I found my Hymec Hydraulic clutch is a little bit installed wrong and putting a bit of preload on the clutch. So I made some mods to fix this.

If it still slips are there good aftermarket springs to consider? I see an EBC spring kit on amazon for 10 bucks...

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My Hymec was putting a little preload on the actuator arm... Something to check for to everyone who wants one or has installed one. I got out the angle grinder and shaved off 3/16ths of an inch from the slave cylinder perch/ cable perch to give the system a little more slack. Will find out if it still slips next time I beat on it!

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