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Charging System or Battery? 2012 WR450

By idratherberiding,
in WR400F/426F/450F

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idratherberiding

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2012 WR450, bought it in the fall and am starting to fix it up.

The battery looks fairly new, Previous owner said it's new.  It charges fine and will start the bike with E-start.  But throughout ride it drains, won't e-start and then the bike starts running like crap and the engine light goes on.  I pulled the headlight bulb and that helped a bit but still started to run bad after more riding.

I charged the battery last night, was at 12.8V throughout the day.  Put it on the bike, started it a few times, rode it for 5 minutes.  Now is at 12.6V

I went through the troubleshooting process.  On the wiring harness, I tested the stator plug.  The specs are 0.52-0.78 Ohms, pin 1 and 2 showed .7 Ohms.  Pin 1 and 3 showed 6.7 Ohms, pin 2 and 3 around the same (7 Ohms).  I'm guessing if this is the problem, it's in pin 3.  Not sure if that's enough of a difference in Ohms though.

Then put the voltmeter to the rectifier/regulator and ran the bike.  Specs are 14V @5000rpm.  It never got past 4.8V and I was revving it well past 5000rpm.  Was at about 2.8V on idle.

Now, is the stock stator failing common for these 2012 WR450s?  Has anyone else dealt with this and knows what the results of the testing is showing?  I'd rather not buy both a battery and stator, I'd like to figure out exactly what it is then fix/replace.  If rewiring the stator/cleaning it out is an option too that would be great

 

Also,  the error code it gave me was 4 long flashes, then 6 short flashes.  Kept repeating that when I turn the bike on.  Check engine light

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revilingfool

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The only time ive had stator trouble was on a 05 cbr1000rr. You are correct in testing at an elevated RPM, even the larger street bikes need to be tested this way as idle doesnt produce much.

I cant comment specifically for this bike, but it sounds like you are on the right track with the charging system. Specifically the stator output. 

I wouldnt buy a new battery. Batteries get killed and cannot be revived, or perform super shitty. 

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raYzerman

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Just some general comments from my dealings with bike electrics......

Battery at 12.8 is nearly or is fully charged, starting it would use a bit of juice, 5 minutes may not be enough to fully bring it back to where it was.  I'd bet on the battery being OK for the moment.

Not sure if you were testing the charging voltage properly, the whole system should be connected and take your readings at the battery.  If low, take the rectifier off and make sure it is cleanly mounted, i.e., grounded.  Test again.

All I got for now, I'm not familiar with the '12 WR, perhaps someone with more experience will chime in.

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raYzerman

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The rectifier body should be grounded that's how it gets rid of extra charging voltage, usually they are bolted to the frame, which is grounded, just check it's a clean mounting..  Internally, it should not have any shorts to ground, nor the stator, tested at the respective connectors.

I just looked at a 2011 manual I have, no test described for the stator.  Your charging voltage is low, not sure why... I see that they say test the charging voltage at two connectors (I was wrong).... however, I would also test it at the battery, which includes the 10 amp fuse in the circuit and would let you know if the fuse is OK.

Wish I could be more help.........

Edited by raYzerman
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idratherberiding

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I believe I have a short to ground somewhere in my stator.  The 3 pins give more resistance than the spec.  It's giving me 1.3 - 7.4 Ohms, the spec range is 0.5 - 0.8 Ohms.  When I put my meter on continuity and test each pin to ground, there is continuity  (it beeps).  It's not supposed to have continuity to ground, right?  I have one lead on the pin, the other either on the frame or on the - side of the battery.  I'm referring to the 3 pin connector that comes from the stator and plugs into the rectifier regulator.



Has anyone taken off their flywheel side cover on this bike?  It looks like its more difficult than on a YZ since there is the starter gear on this side.  All the videos I can find are on bikes that are kick start only, less stuff on that side of the engine.  Looking for some tips and resources to taking that case off, aside from what the manual says.

 

Also, when I get in there, I'm planning to take the whole stator out and then test the pins on the bench.  If it's no longer shorting to ground I should have a different resistance reading.

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raYzerman

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Follow the manual.  Leave the starter in place, it's just got an o-ring around it.  Remove the shift lever and torque limiter, the bolts holding the cover on, pry gently, it won't come, look for that last bolt that's holding it on. IIRC, there is one behind the torque limiter.  Remove cover and your stator is in the cover.

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raYzerman

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No, it's in the cover.  If you pull the flywheel you will need the special puller, no need to go there.  I'm going by memory when I had to take my engine out, so if I'm wrong, perhaps someone could chime in.  I left my stator hanging from the forks while I took the engine out, I did pull the flywheel before taking it out (easier to do in bike than out).  Bottom line, pull the cover off, won't take long, you'll know right away.

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raYzerman

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Problem points to your stator, behind that cover.  YOu may get in there and find little or no physical evidence, but likely one of the windings has shorted.  The insulation on those windings is like a varnish coating, vibration/heat has caused a hole in it, shorting to ground or to one of the windings.  I'd bet rectifier is OK.

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knowlimits

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Be sure to check the plugs behind the headlight shroud for corrosion. There is a blanked plug covered with electrical tape that often gets water in it and corrodes, causing charging/electrical issues. The one I'm talking about has a metal bridge in it, I think it's there for non-US models to plug in a high/low beam/on/off switch for the headlight.

I had weird electrical problems on my WR much like you are describing and found the plug and metal bridge had corroded and was not conducting electricity. Cleaned it up and no problems since.

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idratherberiding

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4 hours ago, knowlimits said:

Be sure to check the plugs behind the headlight shroud for corrosion. There is a blanked plug covered with electrical tape that often gets water in it and corrodes, causing charging/electrical issues. The one I'm talking about has a metal bridge in it, I think it's there for non-US models to plug in a high/low beam/on/off switch for the headlight.

I had weird electrical problems on my WR much like you are describing and found the plug and metal bridge had corroded and was not conducting electricity. Cleaned it up and no problems since.

Great comment, that's why I made this thread.  Thank you.  I will check that out this weekend

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idratherberiding

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I haven't taken it to anyone yet.  I know it's a 3 phase stator and there are a ton of different threads on this exact problem with varying solutions.  I've read a few people do what you did and replace the whole system only to have it remain broken.

Keep in touch on this thread and hopefully someone will chime in with some helpful information.  It's a pretty decent bike otherwise but that's a huge &%$#@! up on the part of Yamaha.   I've had 2 fuel injected KTM four strokes from 2012 that were flawless

 

Edited by idratherberiding
autocorrect
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