Clake one light clutch

Has anyone used one of these?  I use the 3 finger technique to modulate my clutch. Which also means I don’t cover it, and I abuse the clutch like it’s a 125.  Looking for something I can cover and one finger modulate.

6 minutes ago, jpbova said:

Has anyone used one of these?  I use the 3 finger technique to modulate my clutch. Which also means I don’t cover it, and I abuse the clutch like it’s a 125.  Looking for something I can cover and one finger modulate.

Change to the ARC lever. Feels more substantial, and has less 'slop'. I use one, two, three and four fingers, depending on the task. 

The Clake is nearly impossible to adjust to anything but one kind of modulation and one kind of brake pressure.....for me making it a waste of time.

It would be fine for always flat terrain, but I don't have any of that....

Buddy has one on his bike. I absolutely hate it and it forces you to use one finger which is weird. They need to offer it with a 1, 2, or 3 finger levers. As for the adjustment, after a proper bleeding it has a large adjustment range, reach, engagement and weight of pull.

11 hours ago, THE KRAN said:

Change to the ARC lever. Feels more substantial, and has less 'slop'. I use one, two, three and four fingers, depending on the task. 

The Clake is nearly impossible to adjust to anything but one kind of modulation and one kind of brake pressure.....for me making it a waste of time.

It would be fine for always flat terrain, but I don't have any of that....

Why would you say this???

Does the ARC level change the pivot point or leverage?? Outside the unbreakable design it's not the same as MME or Clarke One Finger??

Edited by weantright
6 minutes ago, weantright said:

Buddy has one on his bike. I absolutely hate it and it forces you to use one finger which is weird. They need to offer it with a 1, 2, or 3 finger levers. As for the adjustment, after a proper bleeding it has a large adjustment range, reach, engagement and weight of pull.

Why would you say this???

Does the ARC level change the pivot point or leverage?? Outside the unbreakable design it's not the same as MME or Clarke One Finger??

Tried the Clake twice, on my own bikes, did not like it. 

Its also stupid $$.  No free lunch with any of this stuff.  I tend to agree with Kran, just a good lever, and work on grip strength if needed.  I add some sticky grip tape if its wet,  helps keep fingers planted when negotiating rocky hills.

9mm master cylinder off a new KTM makes the clutch pull much lighter. 

9mm is the bore size, 10mm is what Beta has. There's a 9 or 10 on the bottom so you can tell the difference. Plus all the 9mm we have got tend to be plain silver. 

When we first tried it I was concerned it wouldn't full disengage, but it works great! The lever might need to be slightly further out. Not at all an issue with the easy pull unless you have really small hands. 

We have used it with both the old and new style clutches on Ty's EX bikes the last two seasons. This is something that we bought and put on his Factory race bikes ourselves and didn't come from Beta. Already installed one on the 2018 race bike. 

8 minutes ago, ccullins said:

9mm master cylinder off a new KTM makes the clutch pull much lighter. 

9mm is the bore size, 10mm is what Beta has. There's a 9 or 10 on the bottom so you can tell the difference. Plus all the 9mm we have got tend to be plain silver. 

When we first tried it I was concerned it wouldn't full disengage, but it works great! The lever might need to be slightly further out. Not at all an issue with the easy pull unless you have really small hands. 

We have used it with both the old and new style clutches on Ty's EX bikes the last two seasons. This is something that we bought and put on his Factory race bikes ourselves and didn't come from Beta. Already installed one on the 2018 race bike. 

 

One of the many awesome things about this website; real input from factory racer #16 team on technical questions. Thanks CC.

I have a 2017 500 RR-S and used the Clake for several months. I went back to the stock unit after.

As the Kran mentioned, I found it difficult to find the friction sound for modulation. This is after trying many different force combinations using the adjustment wheel. It just felt kind of mushy rather than the really crisp and wide actuation range I feel with the stocker.

Also, and this may have been an installation screwup by yours truly, but riding some really hard trails in Colorado, the clutch kind of locked up partially engaged and I had to physically push on the Clake lever to open it back up. Never had that issue with the stock unit. This was after around 20 minutes of almost constant slipping though.

I moved the stock unit to the right and now am completely comfortable actuating it via 1 or 2 fingers.

Might try the Clake again some time, make sure is properly bled, etc. It sure is a piece of clever engineering. But for now am happier with the stock unit.

Alright you guys talked me out of a clake. I purchased an MME.

Alright you guys talked me out of a clake. I purchased an MME.

 

The MME lever works great on my 250rr. I’ve come to really like the shape / profile of it. Very comfy. It of course lightened the pull a bit and increased the engagement point. I actually like the increased engagement as it allows you to get really precise modulation with the clutch.

 

When you set it up it calls for no freeplay in the lever. Keep an eye on this as it’s really easy to miss the preload rod slightly engaging the master cylinder. If this happens it prevents fluid from traveling in to the reservoir. With mine I leave just a slight amount of freeplay in the lever to avoid this.

2 hours ago, NW_drZ said:

 


The MME lever works great on my 250rr. I’ve come to really like the shape / profile of it. Very comfy. It of course lightened the pull a bit and increased the engagement point. I actually like the increased engagement as it allows you to get really precise modulation with the clutch.

When you set it up it calls for no freeplay in the lever. Keep an eye on this as it’s really easy to miss the preload rod slight engaging the master cylinder. If this happens it prevents fluid from traveling in to the reservoir. With mine I leave just a slight amount of freeplay in the lever to avoid this.

 

Same here. I've had this on both my 350 and now my 250. A friend commented that the stock lever felt more like a on/off engagement, where the MME felt more precise. He's ordered an MME after he felt the difference. 

anyone use the larger slave cylinder and notice much improvement?  

 

On ‎4‎/‎13‎/‎2018 at 9:59 AM, ccullins said:

9mm master cylinder off a new KTM makes the clutch pull much lighter. 

9mm is the bore size, 10mm is what Beta has. There's a 9 or 10 on the bottom so you can tell the difference. Plus all the 9mm we have got tend to be plain silver. 

When we first tried it I was concerned it wouldn't full disengage, but it works great! The lever might need to be slightly further out. Not at all an issue with the easy pull unless you have really small hands. 

We have used it with both the old and new style clutches on Ty's EX bikes the last two seasons. This is something that we bought and put on his Factory race bikes ourselves and didn't come from Beta. Already installed one on the 2018 race bike. 

Do you have a PN?? Have to do something on the XT. Stupid stiff w/rekluse and from the one 2018 390 I tried at the dealer isn't far off. Unrealistic to say work on grip strength when most other brands in my garage are much much softer.




Do you have a PN?? Have to do something on the XT. Stupid stiff w/rekluse and from the one 2018 390 I tried at the dealer isn't far off. Unrealistic to say work on grip strength when most other brands in my garage are much much softer.


Which Rekluse are you running? My 17’ with the Core 3 and MME lever has a pretty good pull. Just slightly heavier that the 17’ + KTMs. Easy one finger modulation.

Core 3, low engagement and not sure what pressure plate springs. Looking to go to medium engagement at a minimum and medium pressure plate springs if not there already. MM lever is next while I design a leverage lever. Never felt Beta's pull was respectable vs. what others I have used but the XT's is the worst,,,,, ever.

37 minutes ago, weantright said:

Core 3, low engagement and not sure what pressure plate springs. Looking to go to medium engagement at a minimum and medium pressure plate springs if not there already. MM lever is next while I design a leverage lever. Never felt Beta's pull was respectable vs. what others I have used but the XT's is the worst,,,,, ever.

Definitely agree with you here.  First thing I noticed when I got my Beta was the heavier stock lever pull compared to other manufactures.  The MME lever made a noticeable difference to reduce it.  And I like the added modulation point it brings with it.  The Core 3 uses 3 heavy / 3 med pressure plate springs.  You could try switching to 6 medium, but this may have an effect on slippage (as in it will add more).  Hard to say though.  Despite not running a rekluse, I believe TT member Goatse has played around with lighter pressure plate springs on his 250RR and has had success without introducing any problems.  As far as the EXP goes, I prefer the medium engagement to the low engagement EXP springs.  Less drag and bog at low R's.  To me it has a snappier engagement when it locks up as well.  With the low engagement I had to run my idle quite low to avoid it dragging hard at idle.       

46 minutes ago, NW_drZ said:

Definitely agree with you here.  First thing I noticed when I got my Beta was the heavier stock lever pull compared to other manufactures.  The MME lever made a noticeable difference to reduce it.  And I like the added modulation point it brings with it.  The Core 3 uses 3 heavy / 3 med pressure plate springs.  You could try switching to 6 medium, but this may have an effect on slippage (as in it will add more).  Hard to say though.  Despite not running a rekluse, I believe TT member Goatse has played around with lighter pressure plate springs on his 250RR and has had success without introducing any problems.  As far as the EXP goes, I prefer the medium engagement to the low engagement EXP springs.  Less drag and bog at low R's.  To me it has a snappier engagement when it locks up as well.  With the low engagement I had to run my idle quite low to avoid it dragging hard at idle.       

Low idle and slippage at start is the reason I want to up the engagement. Snappier engagement is welcome but snappier low-end isn't so much for one rider.

anyone use the larger slave cylinder and notice much improvement?  
 

Yes, I also added washers to the 4 springs. It's really nice now. If you do a YouTube search on beta clutch there is a guy who advises this cheap and easy mod.
1 minute ago, Jetwag03 said:


Yes, I also added washers to the 4 springs. It's really nice now. If you do a YouTube search on beta clutch there is a guy who advises this cheap and easy mod.

I have also done this.  I assumed everyone had.  it did make a big difference though 

I guess I'm the only one who loves the one light clutch! 

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