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Hi everyone, 

ive got an eighties PE 175 I’ve recently restored, which I’m running silkolene comp 2 premix which is ok, but I don’t think it’s really any good, although everyone raves how good it is for older dirtbikes. I was thinking of bel ray or Castro’s as I ran these on other bikes when I was younger ( more for the smell) 

I’m rebuilding the engine later in the year, and if it’s anything like the bodges I seen on the rest of the bike it will all need doing so I wanna run it something that wont kill everything. 

Thanks in advance 

2D595206-4AF1-47AF-9BF7-078540265184.jpeg

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Nothing protects better and nothing smells better than Maxima Castor 927. It's an amazing smell. Many other oils are offensive to smell but not 927.

With a bike that nice there's no reason to try and save $20 a year on lesser oils.

Edited by shrubitup
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That engine doesn't require anything special.  Castor oil would be fine.  I'd run Super M since I run it in everything.

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You didn't follow the Super M links.

It only has 20-30% synthetic oil. Most of the rest is a substance most normally used as a cosmetic ingredient.

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3 hours ago, Truman Sparks said:

I run Lucas in my bikes.

I buy it by the case 4 one gallon jugs from Summit Racing ships for free.

 

:thumbsup:

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Older bikes with cast iron liners are prone to developing rust deposits around the ports if full synthetic is used for a bike which may sit for a while. I had this issue, and was told to switch to a petroleum or castor based oil, which would leave a protective coating. I switched to Maxima 927 and it works great for me. Smells good too. _storage_extSdCard_Documents_Pictures_CZ & Vintage MX_20150923_141320.jpg

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Use something similar to what would have been used in the bike originally. Modern chainsaw and outboard oil is probably fine. Castor is usually a safe bet, but it's also associated with increased varnish (dat smell tho). I doubt that using any quality oil would have a detrimental effect on engine life. Likewise I doubt that using expensive zooper racing oils would noticeably extend it.

On 4/22/2018 at 11:38 PM, jaguar57 said:

You didn't follow the Super M links.

It only has 20-30% synthetic oil. Most of the rest is a substance most normally used as a cosmetic ingredient.

You didn't distinguish opinions from facts and anecdotes from objective scientific evidence. The source of your information prefaced everything multiple times with this disclaimer:

On 9/1/2017 at 9:54 AM, The Spanky said:

But it's nothing more than anecdotal observations of mine, certainly nothing formal or scientific, it was just an off the cuff answer in an oil thread. Your mileage may vary.

Thus making your conclusion opinion that "Super-M sucks" a poorly informed one.

Super-M has been my go-to two cycle oil for over 20 years now. Does that mean it's great? No. I could provide anecdotes that Super-M is great. Does that mean it's great? No. It just means that I like it (opinion) and experience no problems with it (anecdote and fact).

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On 4/23/2018 at 0:38 AM, jaguar57 said:

You didn't follow the Super M links.

It only has 20-30% synthetic oil. Most of the rest is a substance most normally used as a cosmetic ingredient.

It seems you need to learn more about trimethylolpropane than your 30 second google search provided you.

~60 percent of Super M is a fatty acid based biolubricant.  This makes it more environmentally friendly than many conventional two stroke oils such as Motul 800.  The 20-30 percent of synthetic oil content has little to do with its overall performance.  Super M performs better than any other oil I have used, and I used to run Motul 800 exclusively.  Super M burns as clean and provides excellent protection. 

People attach far too much significance to synthetics in general.  I see the same irrational fixation on base stock in automotive oils as well.  They have their place and they have their advantages but there are plenty of reasons to run non synthetic oils.

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From the Geezer Files: Just use a middle of the road oil; hell, I've even used two stroke chain saw oil when in a pinch and it worked fine.  One must resist believing all the hype and mumbo-jumbo.   A good habit to learn is to avoid reading too many magazines.  Bel-Ray, Lucas, whatever will work.  

In the winters of yore, we used to heat a little Castrol in a coffee can on a hot plate to make the shop aromatic while we waited for warm weather and the first race.

Edited by Jimmy Pascol
Had a flashback.
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OK but if Maxima didn't want people to think something is fishy with their fatty acids then why don't they provide any explanation for nosey people like me?

Here's one persons comments about Super M on my site:

This oil didn't protect the piston as well as I would like to see in my engines. The piston was noticeably shiny and scuffed on both the intake and exhaust sides, and the top-end was almost dry upon tear-down, although the bottom-end seemed to be well lubed. The ring grooves were reasonably clean, but the piston crown and head had significant deposits, as well as the power valves, although not as bad as the Golden Spectro. Another oil that I just can't recommend, it just doesn't seem to leave the engine well lubricated or clean. I also felt this oil left an off-color on the plugs, making jetting a little more difficult.

Lucas oil? Astoundingly mislabeled. The necessary fuel/oil ratios needed for good protection require more oil than even using a straight mineral oil. This is calculated by their stated viscosities and flash point temperature. Needed is 18/1 for iron sleeved air-cooled, and 21/1 for plated cylinder that is water cooled. But they claim you can use it up to 50/1.

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3 hours ago, HeadTrauma said:

 

Thus making your conclusion opinion that "Super-M sucks" a poorly informed one.

 

Well, you know what opinions are like...:thumbsup:

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Back when I was cutting down the forest, we used 30wt mixed at 50-1.

Ran the chainsaws at full wide open for hundreds of hours.

Never stuck a piston.

I use Lucas at 20-1 in my all my Two Strokes.

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I used to run golden Spectro in all my bikes as a kid 

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