Jump to content

Recommended Posts

 

 

You have to stop the air injection into the exhaust on decel, that's like the #1 thing

That in itself will not rid popping but it has to be done, to begin the fine tuning process

 

can you tell me what your original presets were before any changes?   and did they match the instructions for stock bike?

also were is your tps at?

and have you touched the idle since jd install?

 

 

Edited by Spud786

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, Spud786 said:

 

 

You have to stop the air injection into the exhaust on decel, that's like the #1 thing

That in itself will not rid popping but it has to be done, to begin the fine tuning process

 

can you tell me what your original presets were before any changes?   and did they match the instructions for stock bike?

also were is your tps at?

and have you touched the idle since jd install?

 

 

I used the "Open Pipe" presets that JD recommended which were Green - 5, Yellow - 6, Red - 6/7, Green/Blue - 6, Yellow/Blue - 5, & Red/Blue - 4. I was still experiencing flame outs on quick throttle twist so I increased the  Green/Blue to 7, & Red/Blue to 4/5. That seemed to help, I can wick the throttle without it dying, but still have the backfiring. When I originally adjusted my TPS it showed .70 from the factory so I increased it to .75 when I replaced my end cap & pulled the reeds out, but when I went to set it back to stock for the JD Tuner, it read .60 so I set it back to .58 which is what I had read stock was supposed to be. I haven/t adjusted the idle, but it is a little high so I need to turn it down. It's been raining since I put the JD Tuner on so I haven't been able to ride much to tweak it. I will go ahead & desmog & see if that helps with the backfiring.

What desmog kits are y'all using? Blaise or Best Dual Sport?

Edited by rustyg61

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I couldn't justify spending $500 on a Baja Designs headlight so I got these bulbs from Amazon for $15/ea & they are much brighter than the stock bulb!

Phillips Racing Vision H4 12342 RVS2 Xtreme Vision Upgrade.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Watch out for the heat generated by those higher out put bulbs. I put one in my 300 and it melted the housing unit and shorted out the bulb. Seems there is not enough cooling air at low speeds. If you are going to do a lot of night riding, spend the coin and get a head light assembly to handle the task.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, rustyg61 said:

I couldn't justify spending $500 on a Baja Designs headlight so I got these bulbs from Amazon for $15/ea & they are much brighter than the stock bulb!

Phillips Racing Vision H4 12342 RVS2 Xtreme Vision Upgrade.

 

4 hours ago, fred garvin said:

Watch out for the heat generated by those higher out put bulbs. I put one in my 300 and it melted the housing unit and shorted out the bulb. Seems there is not enough cooling air at low speeds. If you are going to do a lot of night riding, spend the coin and get a head light assembly to handle the task.

Cyclops LED bulbs are very bright and the ticket for not spending too much 💰💰. 

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Im running a GE walmart H4 55/60w , as far as heat seems okay, and better light than stock.  Maybe Not the brightest available, but atleast usable over stock.

 

As far as Phillips brand, my sport bike ate them routinely (every few to 6 months), when I went to the Ge bulbs they went years.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice on the headlight bulb. I'll keep an eye on it to make sure it isn't melting the lens.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 22/05/2018 at 3:47 PM, rustyg61 said:

I just installed the JD Jetting Tuner & it really brought the engine to life! I can't keep the front wheel on the ground 1st - 4th gear & 5th gear "clutch it" wheelies are no problem! And that is with stock 14/45 gearing! I mounted the tuner inside my side panel where the air filter is. It worked great! It's not exposed to the elements like it would have been on the steering head frame mount JD suggested, & I can easily pop the side cover off & lay it on my seat to make adjustments. I used the open pipe settings for the tuner & went one click higher on the idle-1/8 throttle setting & 1/2 a click up on the accelerator pump setting to cure flame outs. That seems to have helped, I can wick the throttle from idle now without it dying.

 

It's still backfiring pretty bad, but I haven't removed the smog stuff yet. Will that cure the backfiring?

Tuner.jpg

Thats a great mounting spot

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I’m in LA visiting my son & we drove to Chaparral Motorsports in San Bernardino so I could check out the new brake light assembly I ordered from them. First observation, that place is HUGE! If you ever get a chance to go, I highly recommend it! It’s as big as a Wal Mart! Second observation, for those of you lucky enough to live in California, I hope you appreciate the amazing riding opportunities you have! I live in the Houston area in Texas where it is mostly flat & concrete! As we were driving down the freeway I was seriously lusting after all the hills we passed!

Now for my main subject, I ordered the Ocelot rear brake light assembly from Chaparral with the Sicass flush mount turn signals. They had my bike on the floor with that setup installed & it is so much cleaner than stock! The only thing I didn’t like was the angle they mounted the signals. They have them pointing up instead of back, so I plan to lower the plate mount about 1/2” & make some brackets to allow me to mount them facing back. Here’s some pictures to show you what I mean. My parts should be in Wednesday or Thursday so I hope to have it all done by the weekend along with the desmog.  

5493EBC8-10F8-4012-B2D7-5582860E9511.jpeg

EAD8D09A-536A-424A-8891-50C6369B26BD.jpeg

800F6F6B-E2B0-4D99-AD16-E006DF406F99.jpeg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sicass fender 21-2217 with LED turn signals 22-100C - very clean. 

 

IMG_0637.JPG

Edited by AZ Thumpdaddy
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That’s more what I have in mind AZ. I think I can get my signals pointing back like yours with some brackets. The Ocelot tail light assembly I ordered has limited places to bolt the blinkers to it, but if I make some brackets that will give me additional surface to mount them on. You can see in this picture where they have the blinkers bolted on there is not much room to reposition them, hence the need for additional brackets.

02CA5EBB-DE4A-4FB7-AA61-BB869CCE6D87.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No offense, but the dealer murdered that install. I don't know what they were thinking. Must have been the 'new' guy. lol Sickass like AZ said or PWGarfield (on advrider.com) makes sweet custom tail assemblies.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, trailjammer said:

No offense, but the dealer murdered that install. I don't know what they were thinking. Must have been the 'new' guy. lol Sickass like AZ said or PWGarfield (on advrider.com) makes sweet custom tail assemblies.

Agreed.  No reason to have them angled up like that.  They should be installed like the ones on AZThumpdaddy’s.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My idea worked great! It took some effort to cut out the brackets & file them down to make the cuts smooth, but the end result was exactly what I had in mind. The Sicass tail light assembly would have been a lot less work for me, but I went with the Ocelot light from Chaparral because I prefer the red lens cover over the clear one on the Sicass light. The LED's on the Ocelot are very bright & should be easily visible in day or night riding.

I also did the desmog & no more backfiring! Thanks so much for all your advice, I really appreciate it!

One question on the desmog, I got the Slavens dongle so I completely removed the solenoid & associated vent hoses. but I left the canister & hose attachments on the frame. I used one of the right angle hoses that went from the canister to the "Y" connector where the fuel cap vent was also attached & disconnected it from the Y & ran it to the fuel cap to vent the tank into the canister (see attached photo). Does anyone see a problem with that? The large hose coming off the Y did have a little gas in it, but that was tied into the intake vacuum so I don't know if just venting the tank to atmosphere through the canister will cause gas to go into the canister. I'm assuming the canister is vented to atmosphere, if it's not then my tank won't vent properly.Hose.thumb.jpg.96bddf0d0024c3fa7e982f59bb2373d5.jpg5b10a9d9c8dd7_Blinker3.jpg.b32e0b4c8d36eadb072d8d43c2c1293d.jpg5b10a9eeb910e_Blinker2.jpg.4aa3db970e3b830d159c6b1efcb7e068.jpg5b10a9ca80b5f_Blinker1.jpg.4386daa0805d24e2063033ca0acdcb15.jpgBracket.jpg.8146f9d2c55ed7bcbde519b7a2541a2a.jpg

Edited by rustyg61
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


×